VW Golf oil change
Discussion
Afternoon chaps. Thinking of doing an oil change on the beast this weekend. Beast in question being a 1999 Golf 1.6 8V Mark 4 (ha ha)! Oil is looking a bit black and hasn't been done for some time.
Is this an easy job for someone with little knowledge and few tools? I'm guessing it's a case of removing sump and draining old oil, then replacing sump and topping up with new?
Question is, do I change oil filter at the same time? Is it worth doing any other filters at this stage too? Also, what oil would I be best using? 10/40? Semi-synth/fully synth? Please forgive the naivety and thanks for your input
Is this an easy job for someone with little knowledge and few tools? I'm guessing it's a case of removing sump and draining old oil, then replacing sump and topping up with new?
Question is, do I change oil filter at the same time? Is it worth doing any other filters at this stage too? Also, what oil would I be best using? 10/40? Semi-synth/fully synth? Please forgive the naivety and thanks for your input
Drive for about 5 miles to warm up. Jack car up and support on axle stands. Remove sump plug and drain oil into suitable container.
Whilst oil is draining, remove oil filter and clean seating area. Fit new oil filter (and sealing ring). Remove air filter and replace with new.
Get back underneath and replace sump plug. Fill with correct quantity of oil - I would suggest a semi-synthetic 10W/40 would be fine. Start engine and check that pressure light goes out. Remove axle stands and jack.
Congratulate yourself on a job well done and have a man-beer.
Whilst oil is draining, remove oil filter and clean seating area. Fit new oil filter (and sealing ring). Remove air filter and replace with new.
Get back underneath and replace sump plug. Fill with correct quantity of oil - I would suggest a semi-synthetic 10W/40 would be fine. Start engine and check that pressure light goes out. Remove axle stands and jack.
Congratulate yourself on a job well done and have a man-beer.
The only tools you'll need (other than jack/axle stands) are a suitable socket for the drain plug and an oil filter wrench. It's possible to whack a screwdriver through the filter to give leverage to undo it by hand, but I'd definitely recommend using the proper tool.
The other thing to consider is that on some cars the sump plug shouldn't be used more than once (they have a soft washer that compresses and seals better). Replacements are only a couple of quid, so worth doing to help prevent drips.
The other thing to consider is that on some cars the sump plug shouldn't be used more than once (they have a soft washer that compresses and seals better). Replacements are only a couple of quid, so worth doing to help prevent drips.
Use Quantum (VW) Silver semi-synth 10W-40 oil. And, as has been said, make sure you have a new sump plug wsher before you start! Made that mistake myself before...
If the filter is a standard type, the best tool I've found for removing them is one of those rubber snake/strap wrenches, provided you have enough access room.
If the filter is a standard type, the best tool I've found for removing them is one of those rubber snake/strap wrenches, provided you have enough access room.
king hell. There are loads of videos explaining how to do it on Youtube. I'd recommend watching some of them first as it's great to see it being done visually if it's your first time (that sounds wrong).
If you're thinking of doing more, see what it says in the service schedule and what needs doing at the mileage and age it's at and depending on what was done last. If it has no history it wouldn't do it any harm if you gave it a full service and replaced all the plugs and filters and maybe draining and replacing the coolant and brake fluid. That way you know what's been done last and you can start your own service schedule.
Depends how much you want to look after it and spend on it really.
If you're thinking of doing more, see what it says in the service schedule and what needs doing at the mileage and age it's at and depending on what was done last. If it has no history it wouldn't do it any harm if you gave it a full service and replaced all the plugs and filters and maybe draining and replacing the coolant and brake fluid. That way you know what's been done last and you can start your own service schedule.
Depends how much you want to look after it and spend on it really.
i have used a high curb before now when jack and stands were not available, dont forget if its a side plug thats the side of the car you need lower
dont forget some sort of bowl, bucket etc to catch the oil when it comes out of the sump drain plug
you may also want something to lay on, a bit of old carpet, some laytex gloves if you dont want oil hands, some sand just incase you have a spil
dont remove sump what ever you do
dont forget some sort of bowl, bucket etc to catch the oil when it comes out of the sump drain plug
you may also want something to lay on, a bit of old carpet, some laytex gloves if you dont want oil hands, some sand just incase you have a spil
dont remove sump what ever you do
http://www.national.co.uk/information/oil-and-filt...
Semi synth = £26, fully synth = £38 ?
and here's 10% off too
http://www.national.co.uk/special-offers-oil.aspx
Semi synth = £26, fully synth = £38 ?
and here's 10% off too
http://www.national.co.uk/special-offers-oil.aspx
mcflurry said:
http://www.national.co.uk/information/oil-and-filt...
Semi synth = £26, fully synth = £38 ?
and here's 10% off too
http://www.national.co.uk/special-offers-oil.aspx
thats ok but where is the job satisfaction ?Semi synth = £26, fully synth = £38 ?
and here's 10% off too
http://www.national.co.uk/special-offers-oil.aspx
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