Discussion
Apologies, I'm relatively new here and I'm sure this has been done to death. Can't really be bothered dredging old threads and the BM forum is a little quiet, I just want the basics...
Recently bought an 02 530d Sport Auto. From what has recently been discussed in the "7k diesel" thread, it's sounds as if my car will have them, by virtue of its age and gearbox, and has got me a tad worried. There's a possibility somebody's already been there, the car has done 150k and on a second engine, thanks to a blown turbo when it was three years old. Starting to read a few horror stories about the consequences of leaving them put, and I'm about embark on a 2,300 mile round trip to France next month and need the car to be 100%. I do have my own mechanic on hand who will undertake the work, I just want to ascertain firstly what purpose they serve, and *briefly* what the procedure is in removing/blanking up.
Thank you gents.
Recently bought an 02 530d Sport Auto. From what has recently been discussed in the "7k diesel" thread, it's sounds as if my car will have them, by virtue of its age and gearbox, and has got me a tad worried. There's a possibility somebody's already been there, the car has done 150k and on a second engine, thanks to a blown turbo when it was three years old. Starting to read a few horror stories about the consequences of leaving them put, and I'm about embark on a 2,300 mile round trip to France next month and need the car to be 100%. I do have my own mechanic on hand who will undertake the work, I just want to ascertain firstly what purpose they serve, and *briefly* what the procedure is in removing/blanking up.
Thank you gents.
They are little butterfly valves (like throttle bodies) which reside in each of the branches of the inlet manifold. They restrict air on low revs/idle to improve emissions. They serve no purpose whilst driving.
Their construction is a horizontal metal shaft with a plate screwed on with two screws. If the screws work loose then they and / or the metal flap are sucked into the engine and bad things happen.
They are controlled using a vacuum actuator. The vacuum pump on the engine supplies vacuum to a hose, which passes into a control solenoid, which when open, applies vacuum to the actuator which in turn pulls on a long metal rod with 6 (or 4) connectors on it, one for each flap. The movement rotates the flaps, and when the solenoid closes the vacuum stops and a spring returns the rod and hence the flaps to the open position.
The blanking procedure is very simple. It basically involves removing the inlet manifold (just screws and two sensor clips) from the engine, turning it over, and removing the 6 (or 4) flapper units which are each held by two screws. Then insert a blanking plate over each of the resulting holes and secure with the two screws. You can then disable the actuator by removing it and fitting a bolt to blank off the vacuum supply hose.
I did mine myself. I also took some photos:
You can see the actuator and control rod in this photo:
A flap and a blank:
Blanks installed
Vacuum control hose blanked with a bolt
Full story and photos in this thread:
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f18/2003-e46-3...
Links/info in this particular post:
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f18/2003-e46-3...
Their construction is a horizontal metal shaft with a plate screwed on with two screws. If the screws work loose then they and / or the metal flap are sucked into the engine and bad things happen.
They are controlled using a vacuum actuator. The vacuum pump on the engine supplies vacuum to a hose, which passes into a control solenoid, which when open, applies vacuum to the actuator which in turn pulls on a long metal rod with 6 (or 4) connectors on it, one for each flap. The movement rotates the flaps, and when the solenoid closes the vacuum stops and a spring returns the rod and hence the flaps to the open position.
The blanking procedure is very simple. It basically involves removing the inlet manifold (just screws and two sensor clips) from the engine, turning it over, and removing the 6 (or 4) flapper units which are each held by two screws. Then insert a blanking plate over each of the resulting holes and secure with the two screws. You can then disable the actuator by removing it and fitting a bolt to blank off the vacuum supply hose.
I did mine myself. I also took some photos:
You can see the actuator and control rod in this photo:
A flap and a blank:
Blanks installed
Vacuum control hose blanked with a bolt
Full story and photos in this thread:
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f18/2003-e46-3...
Links/info in this particular post:
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f18/2003-e46-3...
Yes, MPG is reduced by about 10...
...no you're fine.
My independent has an inspection unit which consists of an optical fibre camera and a screen (he's in Hampshire). If you can find an indy with the same, you can see if its already been done.
If the turbo blew on the previous engine, how did that take out the engine? Normally the turbo on a BMW Diesel goes and its just the turbo that needs replacing.
Do you have any receipts for new injectors?
...no you're fine.
My independent has an inspection unit which consists of an optical fibre camera and a screen (he's in Hampshire). If you can find an indy with the same, you can see if its already been done.
If the turbo blew on the previous engine, how did that take out the engine? Normally the turbo on a BMW Diesel goes and its just the turbo that needs replacing.
Do you have any receipts for new injectors?
Cemesis said:
Yes, MPG is reduced by about 10...
...no you're fine.
My independent has an inspection unit which consists of an optical fibre camera and a screen (he's in Hampshire). If you can find an indy with the same, you can see if its already been done.
If the turbo blew on the previous engine, how did that take out the engine? Normally the turbo on a BMW Diesel goes and its just the turbo that needs replacing.
Do you have any receipts for new injectors?
Well two things; 'Turbo and con rod failure, so the latter ...no you're fine.
My independent has an inspection unit which consists of an optical fibre camera and a screen (he's in Hampshire). If you can find an indy with the same, you can see if its already been done.
If the turbo blew on the previous engine, how did that take out the engine? Normally the turbo on a BMW Diesel goes and its just the turbo that needs replacing.
Do you have any receipts for new injectors?
constituted the replacement. There's 3 pages of parts detailed from Lloyd BMW, all with 'FOC', it would have been interesting to see the total cost of the job. I think the car spent the first 3 years of its life getting absolutely caned, probably coming onto motorway slip roads etc - big miles and loss of turbo.
ajb85 said:
IATM said:
Correct me if I am wrong but just to add further information this problem only applies to pre LCI models
LCI? Enlighten me.I generally always make a personal note to always buy facelifted cars as they are generally much much better and more reliable.
THe quick way to tell if it is an LCI model is firstly the rear lights are updated to look like strongs of LED's and more importantly the LCI comes with an upgraded gearbox and you can tell this buy seeing it has a leaf stick inside the car.
new style
http://euroactiveparts.com/images/E60%20LCI%20Brus...
old style
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2581/4005198156_403...
Also this thread might help as it allows you to check if you have a different engine (n47) in your LCI which apparently wasnt affected by swirl flaps or had upgraded versions.
Only reason I know this much is because I investigated it when I was looking to buy one
https://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5...
Hope it helps
Only reason I know this much is because I investigated it when I was looking to buy one
https://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5...
Hope it helps
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