Changing a tyre - How hard can it be?
Changing a tyre - How hard can it be?
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Diablos-666

Original Poster:

2,786 posts

195 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
How difficult is it to change a tyre?

Well if you own a new mini then bloody difficult.

My gf needed her front 2 tyres changing. So she took the car to Kwikfit (yes i know, i told her not too but she did), anyway the issue isn't with them.

They called to say they are having trouble getting a wheel off, it seems that mini have overtightened the wheel nuts, probably by using a gun.

The car was repaired about 18months ago by mini after my gf drove down a collasped man hole cover, the suspension, wheel and tyre needing changing.

The problem is on the same wheel and no work has been done on the car since.

So she takes the car to the mini garage and she asks them if they can loosen the wheel.

"Sorry we can't do that without the log book, you could be anyone" (even though she bought it from them, her details are on their system, and the sales guy recognised her)

Then they say they will price match for the tyre, fair enough. But if they can't get the wheel off then they'll have to use a welder, and that'll be £14 every 5 minutes!!! We get told the job could take over an hour.

We explain that they are the ones that put the wheel on too tight.

We get told they they might over tighten them to prevent them from being stolen or the elements may have fused it blah blah blah

Also, they can't be sure that the wheel has been put on by someone else.

The car has done 18k miles and still on the same front tyres and brake pads. She then gets told that surely they have been changed within that time. No.

"Well, maybe a family member or bf has taken your car and decided to get the tyres / brakes changed?" NO!

The car is 3 years old and my gf bought the service plan from them, so the only garage that's worked on the car is theirs, apart from this time when she asked Kwikfit to change the tyre.

Are we being unreasonable to expect mini to cough up the bill just to take a bloody wheel off?











wolfy1988

1,426 posts

180 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
I cant believe a big breaker bar and a fat lad cant budge it!

It seems to me that Mini should do it without arguing it through with you or asking for money.

otolith

62,576 posts

221 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
I took the Saab and four new tyres down to my local tyre place yesterday. They broke one of their sockets trying to get one of the wheelnuts off paperbag

Didn't charge me any extra, mind.

Mave

8,216 posts

232 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
Not unreasonable at all. On the basis that she hasn't actually had the tyres changed yet, I'd go to a decent independent who will get the old wheel off without whinging, and do a better deal on the new tyres as well.

BoostMonkey

579 posts

202 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
Stick to your gun's - keep at them till they relent.

Diablos-666

Original Poster:

2,786 posts

195 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
BoostMonkey said:
Stick to your gun's - keep at them till they relent.
I wasn't there, I had the gf explain this all to me down the phone. She has left the car with them banghead

She felt like she had no choice as the tyres needing changing and we are going on a long journey this weekend.


wolfy1988

1,426 posts

180 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
Probably a good idea to get whoever manages to remove the wheels to wirebrush the back of the alloy and the hubs, then apply copper grease to everything.

Good luck.

Edited by wolfy1988 on Wednesday 11th July 16:22

Deluded

4,968 posts

208 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
I do see the dealers point of view here. As much as the truth may be that the wheel has never been off, it is quite silly to expect them to just offer their services for free after such a lengthy period of time and mileage on your word that they were the last people to tighten the bolts.

Saying that though, I still don't see how a bolt could be so tight that you couldnt undo it with normal tools. Even if it has been air gunned on, a big enough breaker bar and a bit of leverage will do the job, either that or snap the bolt or break the socket.

This is probably the real reason no one will touch it without making you pay for it. If the bolt brakes, it could result in a new hub & bearing along with anything else they have to forcibly remove.

Keep at it if you want but at the end of the day, you could pop down to halfords, get some penetrating lube, a 3ft breaker bar and a 19mm deep walled socket and so it yourself.

wolfy1988

1,426 posts

180 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
doogz said:
Ooft, I hope Captain Muppet doesn't see that post!
Oh god, what did I say/do wrong?

ohtari

805 posts

161 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
Deluded said:
you could pop down to halfords, get some penetrating lube, a 3ft breaker bar and a 19mm deep walled socket and so it yourself.
3ft??? My neighbour had a similar problem with a flat. The nuts on the shogun had been put on tight to the point of obscenity. It took our best bar, and a 7ft scaffold pole to get them cracked, claiming our best spider in the process. Whatever dipst put them on with the impact needs slapped!

hman

7,497 posts

211 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
tightening torques for nuts and bolts is usually for "dry" thread - using copper slip makes the thread "wet" and so requires a higher tightening torque value!!!.


wolfy1988

1,426 posts

180 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
Hmmm I understand the logic behind that.

However, I know for a fact MB techs do this with no problems.

sonarbell

226 posts

184 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
wolfy1988 said:
Oh god, what did I say/do wrong?
Sadly, Copper and Aluminium dont get along too well....

Deluded

4,968 posts

208 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
ohtari said:
3ft??? My neighbour had a similar problem with a flat. The nuts on the shogun had been put on tight to the point of obscenity. It took our best bar, and a 7ft scaffold pole to get them cracked, claiming our best spider in the process. Whatever dipst put them on with the impact needs slapped!
biggrin

I dont think they sell much bigger than a 3ft. But still, 3ft, then get some scafold and slide it over the breaker. Will sort it one way or another.

wolfy1988

1,426 posts

180 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
sonarbell said:
Sadly, Copper and Aluminium dont get along too well....
Really?

I worked for MB for a number of years and it was standard practice.

Not saying your wrong, just surprised that's all.

shakindog

512 posts

167 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
Feed the fat lad some more sarnies as obviously not heavy enough yet

PumpkinSteve

4,227 posts

173 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
sonarbell said:
Sadly, Copper and Aluminium dont get along too well....
Nor do steel and aluminium but they still bolt wheels on.

Face for Radio

1,777 posts

184 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
This reminds me of the Wheels-in-Motion 'Horror of the Week' section on their forum. Read about this Mercedes wheel which gave problems. I've been nervous about jumping up and down with a breaker bar ever since!


We had a Mercedes in to replace a tyre but thanks to some plank working for a major chain the wheel studs were locked solid. The owner was warned if we use a cracking bar and the stud snaps then a unlimited labour fee will incur because of the stud length and the wheel design, and it snapped!!



Since only the studs head snapped this left 25mm of stud available to use a stud extractor...... The extractor snapped

Next option was to drill a hole into the stud and use an "easy-out" extractor..... yep that snapped.



So we now have a countersunk snapped stud with a toughened "snapped" easy-out in it's core.... so now what.

I decided to see how big a problem we really have by attempting to release the remaining studs, and they all twisted ready to snap.



Next thought was to drill the base of the stud to weaken it



To no avail

It was agreed the only way to remove the wheel was going to be terminal for the rim so with a little searching we found a set of patten rims that would be cheaper than replacing the single OEM rim.

With the owner fully understanding this rim has to come off we went in on a mission.

First up we'll cut it off.....



This failed due to the alloy dissipating the heat



Next option was to grind between the spokes in order to weaken them



But the spokes were to deep for the grinder so next thought was to "melt" the remaining studs and hammer the wheel off.



Problem was by the time number five stud was hot number one stud had solidified..... I despair....

Finally with much heating, cutting hammering, heating, cutting hammering, heating, cutting hammering, the dish was finally removed



I think the rim was in submission





Now we had purchase between the rim and the hub some careful levering finally removed the remaining rim



This ultimately exposed the studs that were now finger tight



All this because an airgun was used to tighten the studs!!!

Fact is for me is that we lost out big time with this job, we gave a honest opinion of labour fees and agreed a fixed price but never did i think it would take two staff six hours to remove one wheel.

The reason for two staff in case you wonder is one is "spanners on" and one is on safety/ fire watch.

E30M3SE

8,480 posts

213 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
Diablos-666 said:
.............But if they can't get the wheel off then they'll have to use a welder, and that'll be £14 every 5 minutes!!! We get told the job could take over an hour.
What are they planning on welding for upto 1hr?

Captain Muppet

8,540 posts

282 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
doogz said:
wolfy1988 said:
Hmmm I understand the logic behind that.

However, I know for a fact MB techs do this with no problems.
Greasing the mounting face reduces the frictional coefficient, reducing the clamping force provided.
This. Massive reduction in the load capacity of the joint (it's proportional to the friction of the faces), and for nothing. If you do have problems with wheels sticking to hubs it's the spiggot when it corrodes, which you can safely lube up as it doesn't do anything structural.

Nothing to do with the OP, just sick of the internet/mechanics telling people to grease up their hubs like it's either useful or best practice.

That said, annecdotal evidence seems to suggest very few deaths as a result.