1990 Golf - things to look out for?
Discussion
I'm going to look at this tonight:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1990-VW-GOLF-MK2-DRIVER-...
Going with the cash in hand so if I like it I'll buy it on the spot. Is it a good buy for £700? All I want is a small car for driving round town and this looks ideal.
I've never driven a mk2 Golf before so some advice on things to look out for would be much appreciated.
Headlining is a bit of a concern but hopefully will be easy enough to source one from a scrappy.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1990-VW-GOLF-MK2-DRIVER-...
Going with the cash in hand so if I like it I'll buy it on the spot. Is it a good buy for £700? All I want is a small car for driving round town and this looks ideal.
I've never driven a mk2 Golf before so some advice on things to look out for would be much appreciated.
Headlining is a bit of a concern but hopefully will be easy enough to source one from a scrappy.
A few things leap out at me straight away.
Firstly the car is not original, it has the smoked front indicators, clear side repeaters, after market crystal smoke rear lights a tacky Wolfsburg edition rear badge - note in the UK there is NO such thing as a Wolfsburg Edition - it was only a limited Edition in North America and still not made in Wolfsburg.
I'd be keen to check the service history and old MOTs as I have seen 100+K engine bays that are cleaner than that one but that is hardly a deal breaker. The headlining is a common mk2 issue, the glue is rubbish but replacement head linings for 5door non GTIs are reasonably easy to get- look on the mk2golf owners website.
Things to check:
1) bodywork
You want to have a good feel on the inside of the plastic arches for signs of rust. Any small bubbles of rust visible above the plastic arch and side trim will mean that there is plenty more hidden underneath. Check around the windscreen for rust bubbles especially around the wiper blank on the passenger side. Pull the boot carpet up and take the spare wheel out, a lot of golfs have leaky boot seals so the spare wheel well fills with water - if it stands too long it will rust the floor out. Also whilst in the boot check the seem that runs along the back edge which holds the outer back panel on, these can rust/crack!
If you can, take a trolly jack to get the car right in the air, you want to inspect the jacking points, the sills and chassis rail - give them a poke!!! Only recently on the mk2 owners club we had a member who bought a car with a tonne of filler to make the jacking point so the first time he tried jacking the car the jack went straight through the floor!!
2) Engine bay
Obviously start the engine from COLD. Let it idle, it should be around 900-1100rpm. The temperature gauge should start moving after a few minutes and normal operating temperature is HALF way along the gauge. Once the temperature creeps up to 3/4 the fan should cut in. The fan should then run until the temperature comes back down to around 1/2 way.
With Carb models it is quite common for the Pierburg to be incorrectly adjusted for Hot/Cold starts so once the engine is warm, switch it off and try restarting almost immediately. Then shut it off for a 5-10 min and try restarting again.
Also whilst in the engine bay check the chassis legs for signs of cracks/dents from accident damage
3) Driving
Power steering should be smooth from lock to lock with no heavy stages or noises. The turn in should be immediate to. If you wobbly the steering with the car stationary you ought to be able to see the wheels move straight away, there are a few mk2 golfs with PAS where the steering rack has play in it, it shouldn't on 55k!
If the back end feels lose and unsettled this could be due to back axle bushes ( you can examine the outer edges from under the car with the wheels on) These are PITA to replace as it's a back axle off job. The acceleration of a auto is not going to be fast but it should be smooth, you should also drive the car in manual mode to to make sure the engine revs cleanly.
All in all that one doesn't look bad bodywork wise and the interior especially the drivers seat should be good. The headlining is likely to be a £10-20 item to replace but it is a 2 man job and is fiddly as the headlining is sooooo fragile.
Best get yourself over to http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/
Dave
Firstly the car is not original, it has the smoked front indicators, clear side repeaters, after market crystal smoke rear lights a tacky Wolfsburg edition rear badge - note in the UK there is NO such thing as a Wolfsburg Edition - it was only a limited Edition in North America and still not made in Wolfsburg.
I'd be keen to check the service history and old MOTs as I have seen 100+K engine bays that are cleaner than that one but that is hardly a deal breaker. The headlining is a common mk2 issue, the glue is rubbish but replacement head linings for 5door non GTIs are reasonably easy to get- look on the mk2golf owners website.
Things to check:
1) bodywork
You want to have a good feel on the inside of the plastic arches for signs of rust. Any small bubbles of rust visible above the plastic arch and side trim will mean that there is plenty more hidden underneath. Check around the windscreen for rust bubbles especially around the wiper blank on the passenger side. Pull the boot carpet up and take the spare wheel out, a lot of golfs have leaky boot seals so the spare wheel well fills with water - if it stands too long it will rust the floor out. Also whilst in the boot check the seem that runs along the back edge which holds the outer back panel on, these can rust/crack!
If you can, take a trolly jack to get the car right in the air, you want to inspect the jacking points, the sills and chassis rail - give them a poke!!! Only recently on the mk2 owners club we had a member who bought a car with a tonne of filler to make the jacking point so the first time he tried jacking the car the jack went straight through the floor!!
2) Engine bay
Obviously start the engine from COLD. Let it idle, it should be around 900-1100rpm. The temperature gauge should start moving after a few minutes and normal operating temperature is HALF way along the gauge. Once the temperature creeps up to 3/4 the fan should cut in. The fan should then run until the temperature comes back down to around 1/2 way.
With Carb models it is quite common for the Pierburg to be incorrectly adjusted for Hot/Cold starts so once the engine is warm, switch it off and try restarting almost immediately. Then shut it off for a 5-10 min and try restarting again.
Also whilst in the engine bay check the chassis legs for signs of cracks/dents from accident damage
3) Driving
Power steering should be smooth from lock to lock with no heavy stages or noises. The turn in should be immediate to. If you wobbly the steering with the car stationary you ought to be able to see the wheels move straight away, there are a few mk2 golfs with PAS where the steering rack has play in it, it shouldn't on 55k!
If the back end feels lose and unsettled this could be due to back axle bushes ( you can examine the outer edges from under the car with the wheels on) These are PITA to replace as it's a back axle off job. The acceleration of a auto is not going to be fast but it should be smooth, you should also drive the car in manual mode to to make sure the engine revs cleanly.
All in all that one doesn't look bad bodywork wise and the interior especially the drivers seat should be good. The headlining is likely to be a £10-20 item to replace but it is a 2 man job and is fiddly as the headlining is sooooo fragile.
Best get yourself over to http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/
Dave
if you want to see if it has been clocked .
on the dash there are a few blanks where extra switches are sometimes fitted. pull a few of these out until you can see the screws holding the clocks in . if there are scratches on these , somebody has had the clocks out . if no scratches , maybe it is on original miles or they used a plastic screwdriver .
on the dash there are a few blanks where extra switches are sometimes fitted. pull a few of these out until you can see the screws holding the clocks in . if there are scratches on these , somebody has had the clocks out . if no scratches , maybe it is on original miles or they used a plastic screwdriver .
jas xjr said:
if you want to see if it has been clocked .
on the dash there are a few blanks where extra switches are sometimes fitted. pull a few of these out until you can see the screws holding the clocks in . if there are scratches on these , somebody has had the clocks out . if no scratches , maybe it is on original miles or they used a plastic screwdriver .
Apparently the seller has all the old MOTs - is this proof enough or is there still a chance the mileage could have been changed?on the dash there are a few blanks where extra switches are sometimes fitted. pull a few of these out until you can see the screws holding the clocks in . if there are scratches on these , somebody has had the clocks out . if no scratches , maybe it is on original miles or they used a plastic screwdriver .
Just had a reply from the seller with a list of advisories on the most recent MOT:
1) Exhaust has a minor leak of gases
2) Damaged steel wheel where it has been curbed (apparently been like that for years)
3) Rear shock absorber has a light misting of oil
4) Rear wheel bearings have slight play
5) Door mirror damaged (knew about this, plastic trim has come off the back)
6) Rear wheel may have slight play
7) Steering rack gaiter twisted
8) Bump stop deteriorated
Would this put you off buying the car? Are they major problems? I have 10 minutes to decide whether to get the train or not! Help!
1) Exhaust has a minor leak of gases
2) Damaged steel wheel where it has been curbed (apparently been like that for years)
3) Rear shock absorber has a light misting of oil
4) Rear wheel bearings have slight play
5) Door mirror damaged (knew about this, plastic trim has come off the back)
6) Rear wheel may have slight play
7) Steering rack gaiter twisted
8) Bump stop deteriorated
Would this put you off buying the car? Are they major problems? I have 10 minutes to decide whether to get the train or not! Help!
Well you can ignore the warning about slight play on the rear wheel bearings. The Corrado has the same rear end as the MK2 Golf and this is always picked up by MOT testers across the country on just about every Corrado I know of.. mostly because when fitting you're supposed to tighten the rear wheel bearings then back them off slightly leaving a slight hint of play - making the tester think they're on the way out.
They're not.
They're not.
polo54 said:
Just had a reply from the seller with a list of advisories on the most recent MOT:
1) Exhaust has a minor leak of gases
2) Damaged steel wheel where it has been curbed (apparently been like that for years)
3) Rear shock absorber has a light misting of oil
4) Rear wheel bearings have slight play
5) Door mirror damaged (knew about this, plastic trim has come off the back)
6) Rear wheel may have slight play
7) Steering rack gaiter twisted
8) Bump stop deteriorated
Would this put you off buying the car? Are they major problems? I have 10 minutes to decide whether to get the train or not! Help!
thats nothing much assuming youre prepared to do some diy...bearings are tenner each or tighten em , pair of shocks wont be loads 1) Exhaust has a minor leak of gases
2) Damaged steel wheel where it has been curbed (apparently been like that for years)
3) Rear shock absorber has a light misting of oil
4) Rear wheel bearings have slight play
5) Door mirror damaged (knew about this, plastic trim has come off the back)
6) Rear wheel may have slight play
7) Steering rack gaiter twisted
8) Bump stop deteriorated
Would this put you off buying the car? Are they major problems? I have 10 minutes to decide whether to get the train or not! Help!
Sold this one recently for £895:
http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=d...
Paid £400 for this one, rust free with no faults:
Paid £75 for my first Mk2:
So, as a non GTI, dodgily modified (lights, badges etc), undesirable automatic I'd be looking to spend a maximum of £500 personally.
http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=d...
Paid £400 for this one, rust free with no faults:
Paid £75 for my first Mk2:
So, as a non GTI, dodgily modified (lights, badges etc), undesirable automatic I'd be looking to spend a maximum of £500 personally.
OldSpeed said:
Walk away. It's not worth £700.
I sold a rust free and pretty straight GTI 8v earlier this year for £895. Bargains are out there if you look hard enough, the car you have linked to above is not one of them.
Bargain for someone, going by the prices on the PH classifieds most of the sub £1,000 golfs are knackered.I sold a rust free and pretty straight GTI 8v earlier this year for £895. Bargains are out there if you look hard enough, the car you have linked to above is not one of them.
polo54 said:
Just had a reply from the seller with a list of advisories on the most recent MOT:
1) Exhaust has a minor leak of gases
2) Damaged steel wheel where it has been curbed (apparently been like that for years)
3) Rear shock absorber has a light misting of oil
4) Rear wheel bearings have slight play
5) Door mirror damaged (knew about this, plastic trim has come off the back)
6) Rear wheel may have slight play
7) Steering rack gaiter twisted
8) Bump stop deteriorated
Would this put you off buying the car? Are they major problems? I have 10 minutes to decide whether to get the train or not! Help!
That wouldnt put me off all normal and minor on a 22 yr old cheap car.1) Exhaust has a minor leak of gases
2) Damaged steel wheel where it has been curbed (apparently been like that for years)
3) Rear shock absorber has a light misting of oil
4) Rear wheel bearings have slight play
5) Door mirror damaged (knew about this, plastic trim has come off the back)
6) Rear wheel may have slight play
7) Steering rack gaiter twisted
8) Bump stop deteriorated
Would this put you off buying the car? Are they major problems? I have 10 minutes to decide whether to get the train or not! Help!
It looks in decent condition, they drove quite nicely with PAS and auto these old Golfs were ok.
Ignore the doom mungers who tell you they will find a Gti in better condition for less, it looks a decent old thing for £700, just make sure it drives straight and is not rusty under neath.
EDLT said:
Bargain for someone, going by the prices on the PH classifieds most of the sub £1,000 golfs are knackered.
The PH classifieds have lost touch with reality since the demise of free ads IMHO.Ok so how about this nice Driver for £700
http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopi...
Nice Driver Auto at £600
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1989-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-DRI...
Straight looking rust free 16v for £1100 with offers:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1990-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-mk2...
Nice 3dr GTI that could be yours for less than £1k.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1988-VOLKSWAGEN-WOLFSBUR...
Edited by OldSpeed on Wednesday 12th September 21:06
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