Engine wont turn over and weird electrics problem
Engine wont turn over and weird electrics problem
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hungledink78

Original Poster:

36 posts

167 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
I have a 2000 ford focus 1.8 zetec with 89000 miles.

As I was driving home last week, my car died on me. It was as though I had turned the ignition off without having done so. When I try and start it up, the dashboard lights work and the engine symbol is illuminated and the mileometer shows -- -- -- instead of the mileage. The engine itself does nothing.

The garage I took it too have done some test and advised me that they dont really know whats wrong with it. Some weird electrical issue they said. All the fuses have been tested and are fine but some of the electrics work while others dont. So my headlights and electric windows dont work but the dashboard and side lights do. The speedo doesnt register even when being towed either

The garage did say it may be an ignition switch issue but they have been unable to test that yet.

Other people I have spoke to suggest it could be an earthing problem, the greenflag guy who towed me home said the earthing wires on the starter motor needed replacing, could this be the issue?

Anyone have any advice?

Thanks in advance.

Baz Tench

5,648 posts

219 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
It does sound like a earthing problem, so the recovery man is probably right.

I would swap the battery out first, or at least check the terminals.

BFG TERRANO

2,172 posts

177 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
Anyone mentioned the chip in the key? If the car can't or won't read it the immobiliser won't let It turn over.

hungledink78

Original Poster:

36 posts

167 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
I know this is probably a stupid question but wouldnt a garage know to check for earthing problems?

Regarding immobiliser, dont think the car has one.

Baz Tench

5,648 posts

219 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
hungledink78 said:
I know this is probably a stupid question but wouldnt a garage know to check for earthing problems?

Regarding immobiliser, dont think the car has one.
I would have thought so, but it could be anywhere really.

BlueMR2

9,460 posts

231 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
How old is the battery?

Stev8s

346 posts

212 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
I would have said battery aswell could be alternator daughter had same problem on Ka alternator knackered

hungledink78

Original Poster:

36 posts

167 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
My battery is less than 4 years old.

When I was being towed, the Greenflag guy tested the battery using some kind of device, guessing it was a battery starter/tester. He also took one of the calipers off the battery electrode and attached it to the top of the engine where a small wire was connected, which he then replaced.

Another thing he did was to see if the starter motor was working. He said it was spinning up but that was all, not sure how he achieved this, but he used a screwdriver!!

Hope this extra info helps, doubt it tho wink

BFG TERRANO

2,172 posts

177 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
Tried jumping from another car? Just to eliminate the battery?

andy-xr

13,204 posts

233 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
Baz Tench said:
hungledink78 said:
I know this is probably a stupid question but wouldnt a garage know to check for earthing problems?

Regarding immobiliser, dont think the car has one.
I would have thought so, but it could be anywhere really.
It's a PATS system I think, an auto electrician would be my next call. Find someone who fits car alarms, either they'll be able to give it a look or they'll know someone who can

Superhoop

4,913 posts

222 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
Are you sure the car isn't fitted with the Ford PATS immobiliser? A quick google suggests it does -No crank would be a symptom of the instrument cluster and engine ECU (PCM) not communicating, in which case, fault codes relating to this will be present.

Have the garage checked for fault codes? If so, what are they?

BFG TERRANO

2,172 posts

177 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
Superhoop said:
Are you sure the car isn't fitted with the Ford PATS immobiliser? A quick google suggests it does -No crank would be a symptom of the instrument cluster and engine ECU (PCM) not communicating, in which case, fault codes relating to this will be present.

Have the garage checked for fault codes? If so, what are they?


I thought this, posted earlier.
This is the fat ish key with buttons on. Often referred to as blue chip I'm sure?

hungledink78

Original Poster:

36 posts

167 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
Not sure about the immobiliser. Just assumed it didnt have one. W'reg 2000 model so Im not sure.

If it does turn out to be an immobiliser issue, could that cause the strange behaviour, some electrics working others not?

Doing a quick search on immobiliser issues threw up this thread http://fordfiestaworld.com/viewtopic.php?f=79&...

Seems to be exactly the same issues I'm having.

How would they resolve this?

BFG TERRANO

2,172 posts

177 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
hungledink78 said:
Not sure about the immobiliser. Just assumed it didnt have one. W'reg 2000 model so Im not sure.

If it does turn out to be an immobiliser issue, could that cause the strange behaviour, some electrics working others not?

Doing a quick search on immobiliser issues threw up this thread http://fordfiestaworld.com/viewtopic.php?f=79&...

Seems to be exactly the same issues I'm having.

How would they resolve this?
Start with cheapest.. new battery in key. If not get it plugged in and look for The fault codes.

hungledink78

Original Poster:

36 posts

167 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
Would trying to start with the spare key work? The one without the buttons on it?

andy-xr

13,204 posts

233 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
hungledink78 said:
Would trying to start with the spare key work? The one without the buttons on it?
If it is the PATS, you'll need the transponder to be in proximity to the car. In an engine swapped car I was considering from a Focus/Mondeo the guy had taped the original key to the underneath of the dash, so trying the other one wont fix the problem, if thats what it is

Superhoop

4,913 posts

222 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
I know it sounds like a typical garage cliche, but start by getting some fault codes.


shoehorn

686 posts

172 months

Monday 8th October 2012
quotequote all
Batteries in ford and indeed 99% of keys are for alarm/locking functions only,most have transponder chips,so no power required.
I would turn on the ignition and try push starting it before going any further.

Also a 2000 focus instrument cluster is not a part of the security system. .

hungledink78

Original Poster:

36 posts

167 months

Tuesday 9th October 2012
quotequote all
SO one garage has washed its hands of it. Said there were loads of things it could be didnt have the time to check all probablities. Said they rang ford who told them it may have been a blown fuse box, but that seemed ok or faulty dashboard panel. I mentioned the immobiliser fault and they said it wouldnt cause the weird electrical issues mine shows. At least they only charged me £30. laugh

Got it booked into an auto electrician tomorrow who might have more luck. scratchchin

Ozzie Osmond

21,189 posts

275 months

Tuesday 9th October 2012
quotequote all
hungledink78 said:
My battery is less than 4 years old.
Then treat it with suspicion. I'd start by getting a full current drain test as well as checking the voltage with a good multimeter.

Voltage test. Ensure battery is fully charged. Remove from car and stand it indoors overnight so it's at room temperature. Test next morning with a good voltmeter. You should see at least 12.6 volts if your battery is good. Anything below 12.4 volts and it's time for a new battery.

100% = 12.73 volts

90% = 12.62 volts

80% = 12.50 volts

70% = 12.37 volts

60% = 12.24 volts

50% = 12.10 volts