Going to view a 190E. What to look for...
Going to view a 190E. What to look for...
Author
Discussion

KenJ

Original Poster:

145 posts

178 months

Wednesday 10th October 2012
quotequote all
I'm going to view a Mercedes 190e Cosworth this weekend and wondered (apart from the usual things to check when buying an older car) if there was anything specifically I should be looking out for?

Any advice appreciated. Thanks

Alucidnation

16,810 posts

199 months

Wednesday 10th October 2012
quotequote all
IBTT.

biggrin

jimmy156

3,834 posts

216 months

Wednesday 10th October 2012
quotequote all
Alucidnation said:
IBTT.

biggrin
Me too biggrin

OP dont know anything about the car but top choice, i love 'em.

falkster

4,258 posts

232 months

Wednesday 10th October 2012
quotequote all
Is it the 2.3-16 you're going to see? You'll just need to check the vin against the register to verify it is correct.
I've seen people remove the back seat and sell them as they fetch quite a bit of coin. The SLS is very costly if it goes tits up so worth checking its all functioning correctly. Most of these cars will have miles on and although they can take plenty of miles they do need maintenance so check for scheduled services.
Can't really give you much more, I could do with more details. Is it a 3 grand car which means you don't expect it to be anything but troublesome or 10k which is going to buy you a better one or 20k for a total minter.

fatboy69

9,424 posts

216 months

Wednesday 10th October 2012
quotequote all
IBTT? That's a new one on me so what does it mean?

KenJ

Original Poster:

145 posts

178 months

Wednesday 10th October 2012
quotequote all
Excuse my ignorance, but what does IBTT stand for?

The car is a 2.5-16. 1990 on a H plate with 103000 miles. Has service history up to 95000 miles. Looks in reasonable condition, but so far have only seen it in the dark, hence arranging a proper viewing during the day at the weekend.

morgrp

4,128 posts

227 months

Wednesday 10th October 2012
quotequote all
Rust around the back end - all round the inner arches and under the bodykit and sills. Check the engine for noisy valve gear and chain tensioner. Make sure the idle control valve is working properly - the car should idle smoothly and not bog down when the throttle is blipped before returning to it's normal idle. Stop watch inside will more than likely have a bleeding LCD screen - these are phenomenally expensive to replace.
The rear shocks wear and the self leveling suspension pipes corrode.
rear calipers are prone to seizing so make sure the rear discs are clean.
Diffs can become noisy and whine.
I restored my 2.3-16 and it was a difficult and incredibly expensive process so make sure it is a good un' as parts are hard to source and very pricey.

falkster

4,258 posts

232 months

Wednesday 10th October 2012
quotequote all
KenJ said:
Excuse my ignorance, but what does IBTT stand for?

The car is a 2.5-16. 1990 on a H plate with 103000 miles. Has service history up to 95000 miles. Looks in reasonable condition, but so far have only seen it in the dark, hence arranging a proper viewing during the day at the weekend.
It's unlikely to be a Coscast then unless its got it stamped on the head. These are Mercedes own heads rather than the Coscast 2.3.

Rust shouldn't be a problem but arches are always the first to go. Electric window motors/regulators are hard to come by so check all windows work. Synchro is a common fault so check each gear. Boot rubbers are prone to failing so check for damp as the boot carpet will rot to highlight the issue. Also check the heater works as it should, the fan and matrix are a common fault plus a bugger to fix.

morgrp

4,128 posts

227 months

Wednesday 10th October 2012
quotequote all
falkster said:
It's unlikely to be a Coscast then unless its got it stamped on the head. These are Mercedes own heads rather than the Coscast 2.3.

Rust shouldn't be a problem but arches are always the first to go. Electric window motors/regulators are hard to come by so check all windows work. Synchro is a common fault so check each gear. Boot rubbers are prone to failing so check for damp as the boot carpet will rot to highlight the issue. Also check the heater works as it should, the fan and matrix are a common fault plus a bugger to fix.
Rust is a big problem on 16valves

n_const

1,818 posts

230 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Rust everywhere and as someone else mentioned the idle valve but the sound oh my <3 miss mine everday !!

KenJ

Original Poster:

145 posts

178 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice guys. Am viewing the car at the weekend so I'll let you know how i get on.

The Moose

23,677 posts

238 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Just leaves one unanswered question

IBTT? What does that mean? I assume in before the ...?

PlayersNo6

1,102 posts

185 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
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Mine had a leaky boot which a new seal didn't fix. Also slow electric window motor. Only corrosion I had was around the driver's door check strap aperture (this was over 10 years ago though)

Great cars.

iva cosworth

44,044 posts

192 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
The Moose said:
Just leaves one unanswered question

IBTT? What does that mean? I assume in before the ...?
Title...........presumably no title appeared till a mod added it.