Help with DIY mech'ing on 106
Help with DIY mech'ing on 106
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Slink

Original Poster:

2,947 posts

202 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
quotequote all
I have just got a 106 to try my hand at a bit of DIY mechanicing, and its got a rather bent front left wing.

and it needs a new clutch.

so Im guessing the wing is a bolt on and off job, but do not know about the clutch.

do you need to take the engine out? have it on axle stands? or what?

any help much needed and appreciated

iva cosworth

44,044 posts

193 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
quotequote all
Engine doesn't need to be removed for a clutch replacement but ALWAYS use

axle stands when working on a car.

You will need a few specialist tools for this TBH it sounds a bit beyond your

novice ability ,no offence,but maybe a few easier jobs would be better to get started withsmile

MajorProblem

4,700 posts

194 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
quotequote all
Drive shafts and gearbox off job. Although if you want by practice then why not take the whole engine and box out to do it?

N Dentressangle

3,453 posts

252 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
quotequote all
Some advice here:

http://106owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?18542...

Best thing to do would be to buy a Haynes manual, join the 106 forum and have a go!

paintman

7,860 posts

220 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
quotequote all
Start by going & buying the appropriate Haynes manual.
Yes, I know that many slag them off, but I've seen a lot of garages with a well-stocked shelf of them & with most of our cars I've always bought the Haynes. The exception was the Scimitar & that's because they don't do one for it.

Edited by paintman on Sunday 13th January 17:52

HustleRussell

26,581 posts

190 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
quotequote all
Wings do bolt on/off, easy to do.
Clutch isn't 'difficult', but will require a lot of time and a proper jack and axle stands to complete.
My advice here is find someone with an impact gun to crack off the hub nuts, also be prepared for the gearbox oil mess when you pull the shafts.

Slink

Original Poster:

2,947 posts

202 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
quotequote all
right, thats sounds ok, just need to findout what tools I need to do it with, and I have a socket set, screwdrivers hammers, allen keys and a few other things.

a haynes manual slipped my mind for some reason.

and the reason I bought the car was cause my brother was going to scrap it for 50 quid so i had it off him, and as such, it doesnt matter it I break it or do anything wrong, as i will just pull it apart to get the new bits off an then sell then again, so i thought it was the perfect car to learn a bit of mechanics.

furrywoolyhatuk

682 posts

184 months

Sunday 13th January 2013
quotequote all
paintman said:
Start by going & buying the appropriate Haynes manual.
Yes, I know that many slag them off, but I've seen a lot of garages with a well-stocked shelf of them & with most of our cars I've always bought the Haynes. The exception was the Scimitar & that's because they don't do one for it.

Edited by paintman on Sunday 13th January 17:52
As this chap mentions, get yourself a Haynes, it's invaluable. In addition YouTube is a good source for reference.

Krikkit

27,938 posts

211 months

Monday 14th January 2013
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+1 to what doogz says, although I'd split the balljoints on both sides to remove both driveshafts - they can be a bit of a pain to remove with the suspension intact, and that way you get a bit more play.

The intermediate bearing is held in with two 10 or 11mm nuts on weird-shaped bolts (hockey-sticks), don't lose these. Once you've got the shaft out give the inside of the bearing housing a run over with some fine grit and grease it up, makes putting the shaft back in a lot easier.

The gearbox drain plug is surprisingly high on the casing, facing the passenger wheel, you'll need a small square key to undo it (same size as the fill port and the engine oil drain).

The bolts holding the box on are 8mm hex I think, 10 is a bit big. Jack the engine up and rest it on a couple of breezeblocks with wood inbetween, that way you can use your jack to help with the box. I think it is a 2-man job moving it about really though.

When you put the box back on and want to fill it with oil ignore the Hayes procedure - the fill plug is a bit awkward to reach. Take the fill plug out, make sure the car is level, and pop a funnel into the plastic breather on the top of the gearbox (it has a cover on top, which just pulls off). Slowly fill with oil until it starts to dribble out of the fill plug, then pop the fill plug back in and cover the breather again. The capacity is 2 litres, the best oil to use is the Peugeot stuff which comes in at about £7-8/litre, cheaper than the crap Halfords stuff!

Edited by Krikkit on Monday 14th January 10:03

Krikkit

27,938 posts

211 months

Monday 14th January 2013
quotequote all
It's not bad with the nearside intact, but I'm a softie about these things and like getting everything clear before I unleash the gearbox. I'm only a wiry thing, so I tend to struggle with the weight of it.

When I did my last clutch change the offside shaft seized into the box, so I had to take it off with that attached! That was tricky, lots of swearing needed.