feasible electrical output of cigarette socket?
feasible electrical output of cigarette socket?
Author
Discussion

richardrsc

Original Poster:

328 posts

166 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
I did look, but couldn't find an ICE section - be more than happy if someone points out I'm in the wrong place!

I have a friend that basically needs a 4 way AC strip in his van, to run a laptop or two and an A3 inkjet printer.

He's happy to keep the engine running when he needs to do stuff so as to avoid running down the battery too much.

Is there a simple adaptor that will do this, or is it a bit more involved?

Cheers

Richard


uk89camaro

1,399 posts

264 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
Power inverter.

They come in various flavours.


m44kts

801 posts

231 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
I think he'd be better off finding out the power consumption of everything together as he may need one thats connected direct to the van battery. Possibly on a small second battery on a split charge system.

s p a c e m a n

12,146 posts

179 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
The best and probably simplest solution depending on the van would be to run a cable straight from the battery to a fixed inverter inside the van.

richardrsc

Original Poster:

328 posts

166 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
m44kts said:
I think he'd be better off finding out the power consumption of everything together as he may need one thats connected direct to the van battery. Possibly on a small second battery on a split charge system.
Thanks. The laptop psu's say 65w on them, Google tells me a injet printer seems to come in about 50w max.

So if we say 200w max, is that a lot for a vehicle battery to supply with the engine running? - I am not electrically minded!

Is there an idiots guide to installing a split charge system, or is that something an ICE specialist could do?

richardrsc

Original Poster:

328 posts

166 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
s p a c e m a n said:
The best and probably simplest solution depending on the van would be to run a cable straight from the battery to a fixed inverter inside the van.
Thanks - any particular brand/model you would recommend?

98elise

32,818 posts

192 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
richardrsc said:
m44kts said:
I think he'd be better off finding out the power consumption of everything together as he may need one thats connected direct to the van battery. Possibly on a small second battery on a split charge system.
Thanks. The laptop psu's say 65w on them, Google tells me a injet printer seems to come in about 50w max.

So if we say 200w max, is that a lot for a vehicle battery to supply with the engine running? - I am not electrically minded!

Is there an idiots guide to installing a split charge system, or is that something an ICE specialist could do?
Thats little more than the lights.

Jakg

4,063 posts

199 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
richardrsc said:
Thanks. The laptop psu's say 65w on them, Google tells me a injet printer seems to come in about 50w max.

So if we say 200w max, is that a lot for a vehicle battery to supply with the engine running? - I am not electrically minded!

Is there an idiots guide to installing a split charge system, or is that something an ICE specialist could do?
To deliver 200w of power, more than 200w will be required to account for transformer losses etc.

200w @ 14.4v = 14A.

The alternator on my car produces 115A at full pelt, I'd imagine a van one would be larger.

Most 12v sockets are rated for 10A so you'd probably need to wire it up direct to the battery - but for 200w a split charge system shouldn't be required.

m44kts

801 posts

231 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
Something like this should do the job nicely then...

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...

Jonny_

4,728 posts

238 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
The cheapskate option...

Most folk only use one laptop at a time.
Laptops have a battery which will power them for a couple of hours or so.
A cheap cig lighter powered inverter will cope with one laptop, or a printer.

Soooooo... I'd run the laptop from the inverter 'till I needed to print. Then just unplug the laptop, plug in the printer and send things to print from the laptop as it runs on its own battery.
Printing done, unplug printer and plug laptop back in to recharge.

Job done.

If he does need to run 2 computers simultaneously, or spends an awful lot of time printing, then a beefy inverter running from a spare fuseway or direct from battery (make sure you fit an inline fuse and use sufficiently rated cable by the way - 200w at 12v is getting on for 17 amps) would be the best bet.

anonymous-user

85 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
The socket will probably have it's own fuse. Check the amperage rating in the fuse box!


(Lighter sockets are ok for ad-hoc use, but pretty unreliable for long term use, would be better with a hardwired connector)

Celtic Dragon

3,354 posts

266 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
My old 2009 Impreza has 2, 1 rated at 5A in the arm rest and 1 in the front console rated to 20A! They designed it to run the compressor and tyre weld system they replaces the space saver with.

Matthen

1,459 posts

182 months

Monday 18th March 2013
quotequote all
Cigarette socket in my car has a max output of 150W... maybe different in a van, but id go for a hard wired solution. Or the "only plug one device in at a time" solution.

richardrsc

Original Poster:

328 posts

166 months

Tuesday 19th March 2013
quotequote all
m44kts said:
Something like this should do the job nicely then...

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Cool, we're getting there, many thanks.

So could if we got one of these with some longer cables, mounted it in the back somewhere, could we leave it permanently connected?


big_boz

1,685 posts

238 months

Tuesday 19th March 2013
quotequote all
OP, I have one of these on a switched live connected permanently, ie, its on when the ingnition is on, but i have a master switch too as i happened to have a suitable one lying about when i did the wring.

Its pretty easy to do.

You will want a live from the the battery with an inline fuse on it into a relay with an earth, then another feed from the relay to an ignition live circuit to a switch with its own earth, finally the switched live from the relay to you inverter and then an earth from the inverter completes the curcuit.

Very simple to do and should cost you less than a tenner for the wire, relay switch and inline fuse.

Scuffers

20,887 posts

305 months

Tuesday 19th March 2013
quotequote all
if the socket was for a cigie lighter, then it will likely be fused at 20A

on that basis, a 200W inverter is about the limit.

Battery wise, 20A load will probably murder it in 1-2 hours on your typical car.

McSam

6,753 posts

206 months

Tuesday 19th March 2013
quotequote all
Max_Torque said:
amperage
Off-topic but God I hate that. That's what the word "current" is for!

SturdyHSV

10,443 posts

198 months

Tuesday 19th March 2013
quotequote all
Matthen said:
Cigarette socket in my car has a max output of 150W... maybe different in a van, but id go for a hard wired solution. Or the "only plug one device in at a time" solution.
I believe this is the standard limit for the cigarette lighter socket (150W), and for more than that you have to wire it to the battery terminals.

s p a c e m a n

12,146 posts

179 months

Tuesday 19th March 2013
quotequote all
SturdyHSV said:
Matthen said:
Cigarette socket in my car has a max output of 150W... maybe different in a van, but id go for a hard wired solution. Or the "only plug one device in at a time" solution.
I believe this is the standard limit for the cigarette lighter socket (150W), and for more than that you have to wire it to the battery terminals.
yes running silly amounts through a cigarette socket is a recipe for melting the fuse box.

tr7v8

7,625 posts

259 months

Tuesday 19th March 2013
quotequote all
Bare in mind that A. Inverters are far from 100% efficient especially the cheaper ones, assume that it'll be 75% tops. B. Start up current & surge will be around 25-50% more than run current. C. Finally when the inverter is connected but has no outputs plugged in, it will still use power, around 5% or so. So will need an isolating switch to stop flattening the battery.

Personally I'd find a second battery & wire that in via a split charge relay, then wire the inverter to that.