Changing brake pads
Discussion
theboyfold said:
So I'm thinking about changing the pads and disks on my E36 328 and would like to do it myself. What should I have to support the car when I have the wheels off? I'm guessing the standard jack for changing wheels isn't the best thing to use?
Definitely not. Axle stands will do it or an old spare wheel at a push. You might want to use a trolley jack to hold the caliper up in the air while you take the disks off so it's not dangling by the flexi hose. I'm not particularly mechanical minded but I did this on an E46 & it took about 2 hours tops.
I use Axle stands, as is traditional, if I am going under it I put my ramps under it as well with a stout plank between them, having been under a car (on stands) that an old lady reversed into I take no risks, said old lady, when I asked her politely what she was doing said I shouldnt hide the car behind the hedge and what did I expect !
Word of caution: if you're doing this on a tarmac surface, put wood under the stands to spread the load otherwise the weight borne by each stand will be concentrated on 3 relatively small points.
You can guess what might happen if you don't...
ETA: worth checking in advance if you need any sort of tool to wind the calipers back.
You can guess what might happen if you don't...
ETA: worth checking in advance if you need any sort of tool to wind the calipers back.
They are so easy to do. I used the standard jack on mine, but lowered onto an axel stand too.
You'll need a 7mm allen headed socket attachment to remove the caliper bolts, also i found the rachet setup i had was too long, so also had to loosen off the bottom of the suspension strut (16mm socket iirc).
But once you know what your doing, it shouldn't take anymore than 15 mins per wheel.
You'll need a 7mm allen headed socket attachment to remove the caliper bolts, also i found the rachet setup i had was too long, so also had to loosen off the bottom of the suspension strut (16mm socket iirc).
But once you know what your doing, it shouldn't take anymore than 15 mins per wheel.
Check the reservoir level it may overflow when you push the pistons back in. You may need to suck some fluid out with a syringe or bleed some out through a caliper. If the latter do it before taking the calipers off the car!
If the fluid is over a couple of years old it is worth bleeding the whole system through, I have never done it on an abs equipped car so check to see if there are any special requirements on the e46.
If the fluid is over a couple of years old it is worth bleeding the whole system through, I have never done it on an abs equipped car so check to see if there are any special requirements on the e46.
Definitely axle stands not just a jack if you're going to be doing discs, caliper bolts are usually bloody tight and you don't want any risk of the car shifting when undoing/doing them up.
If you're just doing the pads you can get away with just using the jack.
I find a pair of water-pump pliers (with plastic pads) perfect for pushing the pistons back in to get in new pads. Like others have said you might need to draw out some fluid depending on how worn the old pads are.
If you're just doing the pads you can get away with just using the jack.
I find a pair of water-pump pliers (with plastic pads) perfect for pushing the pistons back in to get in new pads. Like others have said you might need to draw out some fluid depending on how worn the old pads are.
chazola said:
If you're just doing the pads you can get away with just using the jack.
For the sake of adding ~a minute to the job, is it really worth not sliding a stand under?By all means leave the jack in situ under the car if you must, but if it fails you might not get much warning...
orangesrule said:
They are so easy to do. I used the standard jack on mine, but lowered onto an axel stand too.
You'll need a 7mm allen headed socket attachment to remove the caliper bolts, also i found the rachet setup i had was too long, so also had to loosen off the bottom of the suspension strut (16mm socket iirc).
But once you know what your doing, it shouldn't take anymore than 15 mins per wheel.
15 mins a side for me on the Outback and it was about the same on my E60, although rears take a bit longer.You'll need a 7mm allen headed socket attachment to remove the caliper bolts, also i found the rachet setup i had was too long, so also had to loosen off the bottom of the suspension strut (16mm socket iirc).
But once you know what your doing, it shouldn't take anymore than 15 mins per wheel.
Axle stands and zip ties here too.
Cannot overemphasise the bit about a clamp/zip tie for the callipers. Guess who ended up having to attempt to hold the b
ds by hand once, brake fluid pissing everywhere?
Do it right and it's an easy job. Do it like the above and expect it to take a while...
ETA... Axle Stands. Do not even think about just using a jack...
ds by hand once, brake fluid pissing everywhere?Do it right and it's an easy job. Do it like the above and expect it to take a while...
ETA... Axle Stands. Do not even think about just using a jack...
TBH Halfords Service centres do brakes for life and the cost of the initial job is very reasonable. They did the Audi last time for me using Audi parts for £150 all in, and will replace them free for life.
Despite the fact I can do brakes quite quickly, this was by far the easiest option, that way they have to sort out seized caliper bolts, safe jacking etc
Despite the fact I can do brakes quite quickly, this was by far the easiest option, that way they have to sort out seized caliper bolts, safe jacking etc
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