Discussion
So, now I have a Van with a 3500kg weight limit, I'm suddenly restricted to 750kg trailers, so I'm going to need to do my B+E to start towing decent stuff again.
How easy is the test, could I blag it? I'm sure I can drive & reverse fine as I've been towing trailers for years (including massive car trailers), but it's the "safety checks" and "uncoupling the trailer" bits I'm worried about.
Can anyone recommend a decent instructor in the wakefield/leeds/doncaster/selby area? Cheaper the better? Or has anyone done the test & can tell me a bit more about it?
I don't have money to throw at this and IIRC its £115 just for the test!!!
How easy is the test, could I blag it? I'm sure I can drive & reverse fine as I've been towing trailers for years (including massive car trailers), but it's the "safety checks" and "uncoupling the trailer" bits I'm worried about.
Can anyone recommend a decent instructor in the wakefield/leeds/doncaster/selby area? Cheaper the better? Or has anyone done the test & can tell me a bit more about it?
I don't have money to throw at this and IIRC its £115 just for the test!!!
More fail on the road drive than any other part of it because they think their driving is good but then find out that its not the way that the DSA want it done
The B+E test
No medical or theory test required
Read a number plate from a certain distance
VIDEO - Show Me Tell Me Questions - usually 5
The next three can be in any order:-
VIDEO - Reversing Exercise - done in test centre grounds if test conducted from practical test centre - some tests are now being done from training school grounds
DSA REVERSING TEST AREA DIAGRAM
VIDEO - Uncouple/couple up - done in test centre grounds if test conducted from practical test centre - some tests are now being done from training school grounds
One hour road drive - includes the independent drive and is done virtually the same as the basic car test
Well explained here]
DISCLAIMER - I have no connection to any companies which may be featured in those videos
This is interesting BUT NOT RECOMMENDED – a B licence towing set up can be presented for the B+E test but L plates must be used for the test. So you can train yourself, go to test by yourself, fit L plates, do the test, then, pass or fail, remove L plates and drive away by yourself.
DSA B+E TEST AND VEHICLE/TRAILER REQUIREMENTS
SUPERVISING A B+E LEARNER
In April 2010 new rules were introduced for those supervising certain learner drivers but they only affected those supervising VOCATIONAL categories such as C1 C1+E D1 & D1+E where the supervising driver had those categories given to them for free when they passed a pre 1997 car test.
They do not affect those with a pre 1997 B+E licence who wish to supervise a B+E learner.
All B licence holders have B+E provisional on the paper part of their licence and can tow an empty or loaded trailer on all roads including motorways.
The usual rules apply when a learner is driving -
The supervising driver must be aged over 21
The supervising driver must have held a B+E licence for at least 3 years
L plates must be fitted to the front of the vehicle and the rear of the trailer
Correct insurance for a B+E learner
The B+E test
No medical or theory test required
Read a number plate from a certain distance
VIDEO - Show Me Tell Me Questions - usually 5
The next three can be in any order:-
VIDEO - Reversing Exercise - done in test centre grounds if test conducted from practical test centre - some tests are now being done from training school grounds
DSA REVERSING TEST AREA DIAGRAM
VIDEO - Uncouple/couple up - done in test centre grounds if test conducted from practical test centre - some tests are now being done from training school grounds
One hour road drive - includes the independent drive and is done virtually the same as the basic car test
Well explained here]
DISCLAIMER - I have no connection to any companies which may be featured in those videos
This is interesting BUT NOT RECOMMENDED – a B licence towing set up can be presented for the B+E test but L plates must be used for the test. So you can train yourself, go to test by yourself, fit L plates, do the test, then, pass or fail, remove L plates and drive away by yourself.
DSA B+E TEST AND VEHICLE/TRAILER REQUIREMENTS
SUPERVISING A B+E LEARNER
In April 2010 new rules were introduced for those supervising certain learner drivers but they only affected those supervising VOCATIONAL categories such as C1 C1+E D1 & D1+E where the supervising driver had those categories given to them for free when they passed a pre 1997 car test.
They do not affect those with a pre 1997 B+E licence who wish to supervise a B+E learner.
All B licence holders have B+E provisional on the paper part of their licence and can tow an empty or loaded trailer on all roads including motorways.
The usual rules apply when a learner is driving -
The supervising driver must be aged over 21
The supervising driver must have held a B+E licence for at least 3 years
L plates must be fitted to the front of the vehicle and the rear of the trailer
Correct insurance for a B+E learner
kambites said:
Personally, I'd probably have one lesson for an instructor to go over any non-obvious test-specific stuff.
plus they'll do a mock test prior to your proper test, might just give that bit more confidence as you'll know what to expect rather than going in unsure 
For the reverse exercise, just remember that you can go as far forward to the cones as you like in order to correct yourself, I wasn't told this on my first test
Happy82 said:
kambites said:
Personally, I'd probably have one lesson for an instructor to go over any non-obvious test-specific stuff.
plus they'll do a mock test prior to your proper test, might just give that bit more confidence as you'll know what to expect rather than going in unsure For the reverse exercise, just remember that you can go as far forward to the cones as you like in order to correct yourself, I wasn't told this on my first test
If you use a proper test centre and their rig, they'll give you a process to go through for the reversing "challenge" that suitable to that rig. I.E. half turn as you start for so far...and there'll be marks on the trailer allowing you to line it up with the zone to stop within etc.
Ok - not teaching you how to reverse, rather teaching you how to pass the test...but that's the same with the standard driving test.
Ok - not teaching you how to reverse, rather teaching you how to pass the test...but that's the same with the standard driving test.
Passed mine last wednesday, after failing it about 3 years ago.
It isn't difficult, similar really to the driving test but easier.
I failed the first time for two reasons, indicating too soon on roundabouts (bad habit I picked up, indicating as I passed the previous exit rather than JUST after.) and a major fault for observation as I approached a straight on junction in the left lane, I should have been in the right lane. I didn't serve, just went with it, turned left pulled in where safe and apologised. I did feel receiving a major rather than minor for that was harsh, but having now revisited that area I can see I did miss a very obvious sign!
My advice:
It helps if you know the area you're taking the test. I had only moved down here 1 month before my first attempt, and ignorance of the area certainly didn't help.
Concentrate on you driving for a few weeks before taking it. Bad habits slip in without noticing.
A few reverse practises will help. If you're familiar with a trailer you won't struggle, but it is quite a short distance. You need to get the trailer back to within a foot or so of the back of the marked space, and can only get out once to check. Look for a guide, something on the trailer you can see that will tell you how far back it is. I nearly failed my second test on this, as I reversed in, got out and checked, moved back another foot and was about to get out after finishing the manoeuvre when he warned me that only one check was allowed. I wasn't getting out to check, I was getting out as I'd finished, but I'm glad he prompted me.
When hitching and un-hitching the trailer, if in doubt, check the brake! Instant fail if you don't check the brake before moving the car before hitching. I remembered the order for removing as BJ(ES). Brake, Jockey wheel, electrics and then saftey. Re-attach was the reverse, although you may need the brake off to manoeuvre the trailer onto the towball. It doesn't really matter, AS LONG AS the safety brake cable is removed last for un-hithcing, and attached first for re-hitching.
It isn't difficult, similar really to the driving test but easier.
I failed the first time for two reasons, indicating too soon on roundabouts (bad habit I picked up, indicating as I passed the previous exit rather than JUST after.) and a major fault for observation as I approached a straight on junction in the left lane, I should have been in the right lane. I didn't serve, just went with it, turned left pulled in where safe and apologised. I did feel receiving a major rather than minor for that was harsh, but having now revisited that area I can see I did miss a very obvious sign!
My advice:
It helps if you know the area you're taking the test. I had only moved down here 1 month before my first attempt, and ignorance of the area certainly didn't help.
Concentrate on you driving for a few weeks before taking it. Bad habits slip in without noticing.
A few reverse practises will help. If you're familiar with a trailer you won't struggle, but it is quite a short distance. You need to get the trailer back to within a foot or so of the back of the marked space, and can only get out once to check. Look for a guide, something on the trailer you can see that will tell you how far back it is. I nearly failed my second test on this, as I reversed in, got out and checked, moved back another foot and was about to get out after finishing the manoeuvre when he warned me that only one check was allowed. I wasn't getting out to check, I was getting out as I'd finished, but I'm glad he prompted me.
When hitching and un-hitching the trailer, if in doubt, check the brake! Instant fail if you don't check the brake before moving the car before hitching. I remembered the order for removing as BJ(ES). Brake, Jockey wheel, electrics and then saftey. Re-attach was the reverse, although you may need the brake off to manoeuvre the trailer onto the towball. It doesn't really matter, AS LONG AS the safety brake cable is removed last for un-hithcing, and attached first for re-hitching.
Dimski said:
I failed the first time for two reasons, indicating too soon on roundabouts (bad habit I picked up, indicating as I passed the previous exit rather than JUST after.) and a major fault for observation as I approached a straight on junction in the left lane, I should have been in the right lane. I didn't serve, just went with it, turned left pulled in where safe and apologised. I did feel receiving a major rather than minor for that was harsh, but having now revisited that area I can see I did miss a very obvious sign!
My advice:
It helps if you know the area you're taking the test. I had only moved down here 1 month before my first attempt, and ignorance of the area certainly didn't help.
Concentrate on you driving for a few weeks before taking it. Bad habits slip in without noticing.
Failing on the road drive - the most common source of failsMy advice:
It helps if you know the area you're taking the test. I had only moved down here 1 month before my first attempt, and ignorance of the area certainly didn't help.
Concentrate on you driving for a few weeks before taking it. Bad habits slip in without noticing.
A driver does not need to know the test routes just the nasty bits after all the situation will be different every time a road is driven
Dimski said:
When hitching and un-hitching the trailer, if in doubt, check the brake! Instant fail if you don't check the brake before moving the car before hitching. I remembered the order for removing as BJ(ES). Brake, Jockey wheel, electrics and then saftey. Re-attach was the reverse, although you may need the brake off to manoeuvre the trailer onto the towball. It doesn't really matter, AS LONG AS the safety brake cable is removed last for un-hithcing, and attached first for re-hitching.
This is important. If you release the trailer handbrake whilst the breakaway cable is not connected to the car you will fail. Don't worry about positioning the car perfectly for the re-coupling, as long as you get the car close enough so that the breakaway cable can be attached, you can release the handbrake on the trailer and pull it to the car by hand.Remember once you have re-coupled, release the trailer handbrake before you get back into the car!
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