Freelander, yay or ney?
Discussion
Krikkit said:
Rear prop disconnected means the viscous coupling is fubared, imo, whatever the seller claims. Niet.
Yep, at 90k it will be past its prime, but they're only a couple of hundred quid to purchase and are held in place by just four bolts. However, whether the IRD has been affected by a seized VC won't be obvious until the new VC and prop are in place.Do ya feel lucky, do ya?
As said, prop is removed because of duff VCU, only a couple of hundred and the propshaft bearings are £45 or so for GKN makes as they are the best.
What's the age and spec of it?
S,GS,ES. Is likely.
Goes in that order, S is basic, GS has air con and alloys plus a few other things and ES has heated leather and 16s.
Check the rear boot cubby box for water, new boot seal solves any leaks.
Best tyres go on the back to save VCU wear.
Check the crankcase filter has been changed as that usually gets overlooked.
If it's cheap go for it.
What's the age and spec of it?
S,GS,ES. Is likely.
Goes in that order, S is basic, GS has air con and alloys plus a few other things and ES has heated leather and 16s.
Check the rear boot cubby box for water, new boot seal solves any leaks.
Best tyres go on the back to save VCU wear.
Check the crankcase filter has been changed as that usually gets overlooked.
If it's cheap go for it.
UrbanLegend said:
Thanks for the advice guys.
Not familiar with the IRD acronym?
Is that the transfer box?
Essentially yes. Intermediate Reduction Drive. Or in other words a lump of metal containing oily cogs nailed to the side of the regular gearbox and splits the drive to the front wheels and towards the rear prop.Not familiar with the IRD acronym?
Is that the transfer box?
If the VC fails it locks up and doesn't allow any slip. Over time this can put a lot of stress on the IRD and munch bearings, and teeth and whatnot.
A.J.M said:
As said, prop is removed because of duff VCU, only a couple of hundred and the propshaft bearings are £45 or so for GKN makes as they are the best.
What's the age and spec of it?
S,GS,ES. Is likely.
Goes in that order, S is basic, GS has air con and alloys plus a few other things and ES has heated leather and 16s.
Check the rear boot cubby box for water, new boot seal solves any leaks.
Best tyres go on the back to save VCU wear.
Check the crankcase filter has been changed as that usually gets overlooked.
If it's cheap go for it.
I'm no expert in the Freelander setup but spent a lot of time working with the 90's Vauxhall viscus 4X4 system and that makes no sense to me.What's the age and spec of it?
S,GS,ES. Is likely.
Goes in that order, S is basic, GS has air con and alloys plus a few other things and ES has heated leather and 16s.
Check the rear boot cubby box for water, new boot seal solves any leaks.
Best tyres go on the back to save VCU wear.
Check the crankcase filter has been changed as that usually gets overlooked.
If it's cheap go for it.
If you put the best tyres on the back then then the rear axle pair would be turning at a slower rate than the front due to the increased diameter. The VCU would therefore "think" the front wheels are slipping and always be trying to send power to the back which would overheat the fluid and wear the unit out faster.
On Vauxhalls the rule is to always keep the tyres matched front to back including tread depths to keep the speed differential to a minimum. If there was a miss match we would always put the best tyres on the front so that they would wear down faster and bring the set of 4 back into line.
that's the best "needs a re gas" rival I've heard recently.i'd be more concerned that the td4 engine has been replaced, its a bmw unit and is fairly bullet proof.
i recently sold one for £500 which needed the vcu and rear prop sorting, the engine had 95k on but pulled like a train.
the engine being done rings alarm bells for me, i wouldn't personally
i recently sold one for £500 which needed the vcu and rear prop sorting, the engine had 95k on but pulled like a train.
the engine being done rings alarm bells for me, i wouldn't personally
Reliability index websites shows land rovers as the most unreliable cars by some margin.
Avoid.
Having said that my in-laws have just spunked £20k on a fairly new freelander and are smitten with it. I'm waiting for the first big bill to hit, at which point i'll shout "i told you so" as loudly as i can. They normally ask my advice and i help them with car shopping and they've done alright, but this time they ignored my advice.
Avoid.
Having said that my in-laws have just spunked £20k on a fairly new freelander and are smitten with it. I'm waiting for the first big bill to hit, at which point i'll shout "i told you so" as loudly as i can. They normally ask my advice and i help them with car shopping and they've done alright, but this time they ignored my advice.
Liokault said:
jamoor said:
never buy a freelander.
ThisWe've owned a 1.8 petrol a few years ago and it was very good; it had the usual HGF at 32k miles but was fixed under warranty and never gave any issues again.
Nothing else went wrong at all in 4 years or so of ownership.
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