Low milage S3 2002-2003

[sam100000]

Anything to look out for? Anything that could possibly go wrong?

Im talking about low mileage here 50-60k. Will be driven daily, but not abused. You reckon If I buy one for 5k It can last?

Heres an example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-S3-Hatchback-Quattr...

cheers.

[Panda P]

Get a fault scan if you can but these engines don't always throw codes and can leave you guessing. My top tips are:

1. Slow pick-up and/or starved top end could be a dying MAF sensor - common fault, £80 fix DIY.
2a. No or limited 'boost' could be a dying N75 boost control solenoid - common fault, £50 fix DIY. The N75 solenoid looks like a robust and blocky T-piece which has vacuum feeds from/to the Charge Pipe, Turbo Inlet Pipe and Wastegate. It basically sits right on top of the Turbo Inlet Pipe.
2b. Aggressive 'boost' spikes and inconsistent delivery of power again could be the N75 solenoid.
3. Check the turbo inlet pipe for splits as these commonly crack leading to poor performance.
4. Check all charge air system hoses for splits such as Intercooler top hoses, Diverter valve to Charge Pipe hose, Charge Pipe to N75 hose, PCV hoses on Crank Case and under the Inlet Manifold.
5. Creaking Ball Joints
6. Excessive transmission and engine movement under load . This will be aged rubber mounts but they can easily be DIY'd.
7. Sloppy front end handling, power transfer, turn-in can be due to worn front wishbone bushes and shock top mounts.
8. Uneven ride height can be a sign of worn and saggy shock top mounts.
9. Check that cambelt has been done and also that the waterpump was also changed as the old ones with a plastic impeller degrades and obliterates itself.

Beware points 5 & 7 as pressing these out to replace can be expensive. You can buy new arms complete with bushes and ball joints at about £250 a side I believe.

I think that's it. The MK4 Golf platform is old now so basically just keep a look out for all the usual wear and tear items as listed above plus any other obvious bits.

All in all these are reliable cars but are quite sensitive so don't be alarmed if it ever sts a MAF, N75 or any other sensor one day. The other two sensors to watch out for but aren't common are:

N249 - controls boost pressure when the TSC cuts in. Basically it cuts it to stop you spinning but when this dies all it'll do is stop working and fail to cut your power when the TSC comes in...no real biggy.

MAP Sensor - located next to passenger side Intercooler top hose (mounted in hard plastic hose) can sometimes mess about with power output.

Diverter Valve - Not a sensor but can be guilty of leaking and wasting your turbo boost, y0!

Throttle body - As the car is Drive-by-wire the throttle body is electronically controlled and therefore benefits sometimes from realignment as it can fail to close and open properly which again leads to poor pick-up and power delivery.

Gearboxes are good, clutch also and reliably tuned to around 290bhp so you shouldn't have much to worry about

Edited by Panda P on Tuesday 24th December 23:08

Edited by Panda P on Tuesday 24th December 23:12

[Toaster Pilot]

I think we need a wiki for the common problems with certain cars like the very helpful post above - second I've seen today where people have listed lots of things to look for when buying a particular model

[Panda P]

Thanks, Toaster. Glad to help .

[sam100000]

Panda P said:

Get a fault scan if you can but these engines don't always throw codes and can leave you guessing. My top tips are:

1. Slow pick-up and/or starved top end could be a dying MAF sensor - common fault, £80 fix DIY.
2a. No or limited 'boost' could be a dying N75 boost control solenoid - common fault, £50 fix DIY. The N75 solenoid looks like a robust and blocky T-piece which has vacuum feeds from/to the Charge Pipe, Turbo Inlet Pipe and Wastegate. It basically sits right on top of the Turbo Inlet Pipe.
2b. Aggressive 'boost' spikes and inconsistent delivery of power again could be the N75 solenoid.
3. Check the turbo inlet pipe for splits as these commonly crack leading to poor performance.
4. Check all charge air system hoses for splits such as Intercooler top hoses, Diverter valve to Charge Pipe hose, Charge Pipe to N75 hose, PCV hoses on Crank Case and under the Inlet Manifold.
5. Creaking Ball Joints
6. Excessive transmission and engine movement under load . This will be aged rubber mounts but they can easily be DIY'd.
7. Sloppy front end handling, power transfer, turn-in can be due to worn front wishbone bushes and shock top mounts.
8. Uneven ride height can be a sign of worn and saggy shock top mounts.
9. Check that cambelt has been done and also that the waterpump was also changed as the old ones with a plastic impeller degrades and obliterates itself.

Edited by Panda P on Tuesday 24th December 23:08

Edited by Panda P on Tuesday 24th December 23:12

Bro thanks for that advice. In addition this is there anyway I can find out if an audi S3 has been abused or not. Im asking this because I have noticed a lot of them have needed engine rebuilds, do you know why this is? Lastly do you know how much servicing may cost rougly and anywhere around London who provide good Audi servicing.

Thanks again mate.

[Defcon5]

I'd rather have a newer shape 3.2 V6 one, seems better in every way for the same price?

[rb5er]

Don`t forget the longitudinal and lateral acceleration sensors that can also play up.

[bazza white]

What about a TT 225, could save a few grand. I say this as your off to uni and 7 grand on an older a3 is a lot of cash. Mk5 golf gti could be had for 6k. New shape a3 2.0t in s line spec may be also worth looking at.

[Panda P]

sam100000 said:

Bro thanks for that advice. In addition this is there anyway I can find out if an audi S3 has been abused or not. Im asking this because I have noticed a lot of them have needed engine rebuilds, do you know why this is? Lastly do you know how much servicing may cost rougly and anywhere around London who provide good Audi servicing.

Thanks again mate.

There's nothing major that destroys the engine other than poor tuning or heavy abuse. The pistons in the engine are forged Mahle pistons and can take it but the conrods are not. If it's tuned too hard or if even a standard car is repeatedly abused, the heavy load and/or the torque output of the engine can lead to the conrods bending and if you're really unlucky they explode outwards, so what I'd imagine you're seeing is bottom end rebuilds. It's not a common issue at all and unless you can hear knocking from the engine you should be just fine.

If you are going to look at cheap and potentially abused cars then also look at the exhaust manifold for cracks and have a listen for any leaks as these are pretty inefficient small bore units that get way too hot.

Servicing is dirt cheap as all it is, is standard VW bits found all across the 1.8T range. Either DIY or use any good Indy.

Edited by Panda P on Thursday 26th December 11:45

[Panda P]

By the way, what draws you to the S3? My personal favourite from the 1.8T 210/225 collection was SEAT's Leon Cupra R. In many circumstances it was quicker than the S3 due to it's lower weight. Lack iof LSD is a shame but for under £1k that can be rectified if it bothers you. Good models of these command approx £4k . Basically it's an S3 with no Haldex but instead Brembo front brakes .