Clutch Relining
Discussion
Why don't more people do it on things like a Vantage or an 997 Turbo ?
I understand it's more for the industrial market but alot of places happily do it for normal road cars?
The price seems to be between the £50-75 mark.
I must be missing something here where instead of spending £600 on a new one just reline it?
Something like this - http://www.autoandindustrial.globalhire.co.uk/html...
I understand it's more for the industrial market but alot of places happily do it for normal road cars?
The price seems to be between the £50-75 mark.
I must be missing something here where instead of spending £600 on a new one just reline it?
Something like this - http://www.autoandindustrial.globalhire.co.uk/html...
Various reasons,
- Huge labour cost of clutch replacement often means you want to be sure the job's done right first time.
- Modern linings are bonded, not riveted. More room for wear before knackered.
- The springs in the clutch disc may also be worn.
- Usually you replace a "3-piece clutch" complete, not just the disc.
- You can buy fully remanufactured clutches.
steveo3002 said:
for me , id say the springs get very tired so a relined one wouldnt work like new unless they can tickle them too?
Is it the cushion springs?From website - we can also replace damaged or loose cushion springs
It's just something I thought of due to people rebuilding TCs. Why the same can't be dne for manuals.
I guess most of the time clutch kits are so dirt cheap for cars. But the more expensive ones where they come in at over a £1000 then is it possible?
Sump said:
But the more expensive ones where they come in at over a £1000 then is it possible?
Possible, yes- advisable? No. You'd still need a pressure plate, release bearing and concentric slave (if fitted) which means the only re-usable part would be the friction plate carrier which is normally just a steel pressing. You must also consider that the coefficient of friction might not be identical to the OEM part which could make it unpleasant to use. It's certainly the case with brake pads, I only buy OEM now because they seem to be the only ones which perform as intended.
Having spent 10 years working at a clutch re-manufacturer, I wouldn't fit one in my car unless the fitting time was only an hour max.
Drive plate - Clean, reline as long as springs don't look too worn it'll be fine.
Cover - Clean, strip, grind pressure plate, grind spring finger ends to remove wear marks, rebuild with new spring straps (if available) and rivets.
Bearing - New (a few that we couldn't get new would be degreased cleaned and regreased.
Some of the aftermarket kits available at the time (12+ years ago) were no better in quality.
Fit Luk, sachs or similar.
Drive plate - Clean, reline as long as springs don't look too worn it'll be fine.
Cover - Clean, strip, grind pressure plate, grind spring finger ends to remove wear marks, rebuild with new spring straps (if available) and rivets.
Bearing - New (a few that we couldn't get new would be degreased cleaned and regreased.
Some of the aftermarket kits available at the time (12+ years ago) were no better in quality.
Fit Luk, sachs or similar.
Ozzie Osmond said:
Various reasons,
^^^ biggest problem in my experience with knackered clutches is the spring(s) wear and change shape (causing the high biting point) - Huge labour cost of clutch replacement often means you want to be sure the job's done right first time.
- Modern linings are bonded, not riveted. More room for wear before knackered.
- The springs in the clutch disc may also be worn.
- Usually you replace a "3-piece clutch" complete, not just the disc.
- You can buy fully remanufactured clutches.
Sump said:
I'm just looking it from the angle that people rebuild torque converters all the time.
In fact does anyone when rebuilding a transmission put a new TC in? Don't think so..
If you have had an autobox fail - often due to the break up of the internals, in particular the brake bands - and don't renew the TC all the crap that is inside it will be washed out into your nice new gearbox. Flushing one is not really a DIY home job.In fact does anyone when rebuilding a transmission put a new TC in? Don't think so..
If it also has a system which circulates the ATF through a cooler, then the lines & cooler need a thorough flushing for the same reason.
Not unusual for the ZF type boxes to start playing up after a fluid change. Believed due to the detergent effect of the new fluid stirring up settled crap inside the system. That's not just my opinion:
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/
"Q I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why?
A.The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox.
We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs."
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