100+k mk5 golf gti
Discussion
As above, but in addition; I have an Audi A3 Sportback 2.0TFSI, manual box and Quattro.
It's very similar to the original mk5 GTIs (except the Quattro bit obviously); same/similar engine, gear box, chassis etc and my car (2005 on 107k miles) has been pretty reliable. I've had a CV boot replaced and little else in the way of problems, just make sure it's got decent history and had the cam belt (and preferably the water pump) replaced on time, (every 80k miles I think?)
Hope that's helpful.
It's very similar to the original mk5 GTIs (except the Quattro bit obviously); same/similar engine, gear box, chassis etc and my car (2005 on 107k miles) has been pretty reliable. I've had a CV boot replaced and little else in the way of problems, just make sure it's got decent history and had the cam belt (and preferably the water pump) replaced on time, (every 80k miles I think?)
Hope that's helpful.
Drove 350 miles to buy a 2006 one owner FSH with 90k. Sounded rough as hell when idling. Turned around and drove home.
I've since looked at another one closer to home and it sounded a bit rough too but not as bad. I've heard this is common. I couldn't live with it personally.
Free coil pack recall still valid. VW UK customer services have been very helpful regarding history, coil packs etc whenever I've contacted them.
I've since looked at another one closer to home and it sounded a bit rough too but not as bad. I've heard this is common. I couldn't live with it personally.
Free coil pack recall still valid. VW UK customer services have been very helpful regarding history, coil packs etc whenever I've contacted them.
Mines done 119k
Still doing about 500 miles a week, serviced on average every 10 months.
Engine, gearbox (DSG) and steering as good as the day I got it (with 10k miles on it), no creaks, bangs or knocks.
The suspension is probably a bit "baggy" now, the 18" alloys have been knocked about by potholes over the years making the ride over country roads less than perfect. (Currently on 15" steel winter tyres/ wheels, makes the ride more comfortable)
Had many parts replaced over the years, mainly consumables (brakes, bushes, bearings etc)
Still doing about 500 miles a week, serviced on average every 10 months.
Engine, gearbox (DSG) and steering as good as the day I got it (with 10k miles on it), no creaks, bangs or knocks.
The suspension is probably a bit "baggy" now, the 18" alloys have been knocked about by potholes over the years making the ride over country roads less than perfect. (Currently on 15" steel winter tyres/ wheels, makes the ride more comfortable)
Had many parts replaced over the years, mainly consumables (brakes, bushes, bearings etc)
Rough diesely sound is normal for this engine, it's unfortunate, but not noticeable once your running..
The CV boot was noticed by the mechanic during routine service, made sense to get it done whilst it was up on the ramp.
Had the MOT done before Xmas and the tech said the car was in excellent condition considering its age and mileage. He struggled to get a reading on the emissions, (wasn't fully clear as to what he saying) but coming off throttle it wasn't picking up a reading, he said it was because of how smoothly it was running. *shoulder shrug* and more than one mechanic has said the engines are pretty unburstable. That said, check with the seller if it's been chipped, if it has, ask if they've also changed the diverter valve for an after market jobbie as the oem ones (particularly on older cars) had a habit of failing.
The CV boot was noticed by the mechanic during routine service, made sense to get it done whilst it was up on the ramp.
Had the MOT done before Xmas and the tech said the car was in excellent condition considering its age and mileage. He struggled to get a reading on the emissions, (wasn't fully clear as to what he saying) but coming off throttle it wasn't picking up a reading, he said it was because of how smoothly it was running. *shoulder shrug* and more than one mechanic has said the engines are pretty unburstable. That said, check with the seller if it's been chipped, if it has, ask if they've also changed the diverter valve for an after market jobbie as the oem ones (particularly on older cars) had a habit of failing.
paps said:
That said, check with the seller if it's been chipped, if it has, ask if they've also changed the diverter valve for an after market jobbie as the oem ones (particularly on older cars) had a habit of failing.
Even the standard cars will more often than not need the DV replacing. Updated OEM or good after market is nice to see on any of the cars. paps said:
Agreed, I'm putting serious thought to getting it done on mine. Any ideas as to cost of fitting?
You can do it yourself but it's a bit of a ball-ache to get to. The latest Revision D valve is about £40. With ramps I reckon you can do it in 20 minutes, with axle stands I'd give yourself an hour or two. The wheel arch liner trim I'd the worst part of the whole thing.A colleague of mine got rid of his at 85K, one reason was the running costs.
He was also worried about the DSG out of warranty, heard tales of costing 5 grand to fix.
But, if you're getting a 25 grand car (when it was new) for ?? about 6 to 7 K maybe?? I would think about it yes.
Running costs tend to be roughly in proportion to the original price, so it will cost a bit to run, and about twice what a 1.4 S Golf would cost to run (that cost 13K new). If you keep that in mind there shouldn't be too many surprises.
He was also worried about the DSG out of warranty, heard tales of costing 5 grand to fix.
But, if you're getting a 25 grand car (when it was new) for ?? about 6 to 7 K maybe?? I would think about it yes.
Running costs tend to be roughly in proportion to the original price, so it will cost a bit to run, and about twice what a 1.4 S Golf would cost to run (that cost 13K new). If you keep that in mind there shouldn't be too many surprises.
The engines if looked after with correct oil etc are pretty reliable, though they can use a lot of oil! Other bits can go though - air con compressor is very expensive to fix and probably will have broken at some point, abs modules common but not quite the issue it was I don't think. The odd electrical niggle - rear wiper motors, coolant sensor etc.
I would also pick manual at that age/mileage.
I would also pick manual at that age/mileage.
M4cruiser said:
A colleague of mine got rid of his at 85K, one reason was the running costs.
He was also worried about the DSG out of warranty, heard tales of costing 5 grand to fix.
But, if you're getting a 25 grand car (when it was new) for ?? about 6 to 7 K maybe?? I would think about it yes.
Running costs tend to be roughly in proportion to the original price, so it will cost a bit to run, and about twice what a 1.4 S Golf would cost to run (that cost 13K new). If you keep that in mind there shouldn't be too many surprises.
My DSG Gti is coming up for 75k miles, and earlier this month I asked my friendly local VAG specialist about the gearboxes. The clutch pack can be replaced, and he mentioned a price of £300 for the pack vs £150(?) for a manual clutch. Labour is more, but even so, its not utterly wallet wilting. As for any manual 'box, clutch wear is dependent on use and as I'm light on clutches I'll live with that. The other worry your hear about is the gearbox control box. Its ECU plus servo's, and it a complex bit of kit. That's £800- plus fitting. The gearbox oil needs replacing every 40k miles, but that's not a big job.He was also worried about the DSG out of warranty, heard tales of costing 5 grand to fix.
But, if you're getting a 25 grand car (when it was new) for ?? about 6 to 7 K maybe?? I would think about it yes.
Running costs tend to be roughly in proportion to the original price, so it will cost a bit to run, and about twice what a 1.4 S Golf would cost to run (that cost 13K new). If you keep that in mind there shouldn't be too many surprises.
All in all, the 6 speed wet clutch DSG unit is pretty bomb-proof. If you're worried about the cost, then I suggest ringing up your local Mercedes or BMW dealer and asking how much you'd pay for a new C class/3 series automatic gearbox.
I also notice that as modern car bodyshells are built to be much stronger that they used to (to meet safety laws), they don't go baggy over time like they used to. I got in an Audi A6 minicab the other day that felt completely solid. It had 350k miles up.
SS7
paps said:
ManOpener said:
If they run a bit rough on start -up, particularly in the cold, it could be that the PCV is shot. Cheap fix and you get a bit more boost too.
PCV?More details please?
Basically it's a valve that recirculates the crankcase vapours that can contaminate the oil back into the intake to be burned. VW seem to have problems with spring-loaded diaphragms (like the diverter valve, that's how this one works) and basically what happens is it tears and lets boost leak into the crankcase (basically the opposite direction flow). This results in a decrease in boost and slight drop in power and boost, sometimes a rough idle when cold (presumably to do with the fluctuations in intake pressure) and a drop in MPG.
Most people just replace it with a newer revision (simple ~1-hour DIY) but some people like to replace it with an oil catch can, mainly because the direct injection nature of the engines means that, on short runs generally, you don't get high enough engine temperatures to burn the oil off effectively and it carbonises on the intake valves, causing flow problems and if it gets serious enough even valve failure. A decoke can be beneficial and on a higher-mileage car should be considered, you can use the various cleaning additives too but these won't clean the valves due to the engine being direct injection. The issue is very irregular though- some cars have no problem, some have seriously problems. I think a lot of it is to do with driving style and the oil used. Main indicators of carbon build-up are misfires, poor responsiveness and poor MPG, which are very similar to PCV failure so I'd always do that first.
The other common cause of rough idle/cold starts is the intake tumble flap. This adjusts the variable intake manifold for cold starts- the motors in these seem to die sometimes, this usually throws an error code but not always. Again, these are a relatively easy DIY swap.
Edited by ManOpener on Sunday 26th January 12:38
M4cruiser said:
A colleague of mine got rid of his at 85K, one reason was the running costs.
He was also worried about the DSG out of warranty, heard tales of costing 5 grand to fix.
But, if you're getting a 25 grand car (when it was new) for ?? about 6 to 7 K maybe?? I would think about it yes.
Running costs tend to be roughly in proportion to the original price, so it will cost a bit to run, and about twice what a 1.4 S Golf would cost to run (that cost 13K new). If you keep that in mind there shouldn't be too many surprises.
Yeah that's my main worry! I currently have a fabia vrs tdi so that's pretty good on fuel/tax. But I do have in mind the 30mpg of the golf gti. Shouldn't be too much of a shock I hopeHe was also worried about the DSG out of warranty, heard tales of costing 5 grand to fix.
But, if you're getting a 25 grand car (when it was new) for ?? about 6 to 7 K maybe?? I would think about it yes.
Running costs tend to be roughly in proportion to the original price, so it will cost a bit to run, and about twice what a 1.4 S Golf would cost to run (that cost 13K new). If you keep that in mind there shouldn't be too many surprises.
ManOpener said:
Positive Crankcase Ventilation.
Basically it's a valve that recirculates the crankcase vapours that can contaminate the oil back into the intake to be burned. VW seem to have problems with spring-loaded diaphragms (like the diverter valve, that's how this one works) and basically what happens is it tears and lets boost leak into the crankcase (basically the opposite direction flow). This results in a decrease in boost and slight drop in power and boost, sometimes a rough idle when cold (presumably to do with the fluctuations in intake pressure) and a drop in MPG.
Most people just replace it with a newer revision (simple ~1-hour DIY) but some people like to replace it with an oil catch can, mainly because the direct injection nature of the engines means that, on short runs generally, you don't get high enough engine temperatures to burn the oil off effectively and it carbonises on the intake valves, causing flow problems and if it gets serious enough even valve failure. A decoke can be beneficial and on a higher-mileage car should be considered, you can use the various cleaning additives too but these won't clean the valves due to the engine being direct injection. The issue is very irregular though- some cars have no problem, some have seriously problems. I think a lot of it is to do with driving style and the oil used. Main indicators of carbon build-up are misfires, poor responsiveness and poor MPG, which are very similar to PCV failure so I'd always do that first.
The other common cause of rough idle/cold starts is the intake tumble flap. This adjusts the variable intake manifold for cold starts- the motors in these seem to die sometimes, this usually throws an error code but not always. Again, these are a relatively easy DIY swap.
That's great. Thanks for the info. Mine appears to be running fine but I'm planning on fitting a KnN air filter so that's good to know. Basically it's a valve that recirculates the crankcase vapours that can contaminate the oil back into the intake to be burned. VW seem to have problems with spring-loaded diaphragms (like the diverter valve, that's how this one works) and basically what happens is it tears and lets boost leak into the crankcase (basically the opposite direction flow). This results in a decrease in boost and slight drop in power and boost, sometimes a rough idle when cold (presumably to do with the fluctuations in intake pressure) and a drop in MPG.
Most people just replace it with a newer revision (simple ~1-hour DIY) but some people like to replace it with an oil catch can, mainly because the direct injection nature of the engines means that, on short runs generally, you don't get high enough engine temperatures to burn the oil off effectively and it carbonises on the intake valves, causing flow problems and if it gets serious enough even valve failure. A decoke can be beneficial and on a higher-mileage car should be considered, you can use the various cleaning additives too but these won't clean the valves due to the engine being direct injection. The issue is very irregular though- some cars have no problem, some have seriously problems. I think a lot of it is to do with driving style and the oil used. Main indicators of carbon build-up are misfires, poor responsiveness and poor MPG, which are very similar to PCV failure so I'd always do that first.
The other common cause of rough idle/cold starts is the intake tumble flap. This adjusts the variable intake manifold for cold starts- the motors in these seem to die sometimes, this usually throws an error code but not always. Again, these are a relatively easy DIY swap.
Edited by ManOpener on Sunday 26th January 12:38
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