Spraying wheels - How many cans required?
Discussion
Got a set of wheels, 2x15" and 2x16" to refurb. Looking at using some E-Tech wheel paint in 400ml cans.
Any ideas how many to buy in? Also, a good primer to use would be welcome if anyone knows of one. I've read that Halfords paint is like waiting for Christmas when it comes to curing.
I plan to Nitromors the current flat paint off, then rub down and repair any defects.
Any ideas how many to buy in? Also, a good primer to use would be welcome if anyone knows of one. I've read that Halfords paint is like waiting for Christmas when it comes to curing.
I plan to Nitromors the current flat paint off, then rub down and repair any defects.
Bilt Hamber etch and high build primers are very good, as are the U-Pol products.
I prefer to avoid Nitromors and just rub down. Anything that won't easily sand off clearly still has a good bond and it avoids any worries over contamination remaining if not washed off thoroughly and dried even more thoroughly.
The last set of wheels I did, which were 17" ones and were completely resprayed (not just the front faces) used 5 cans of paint, 4 cans of lacquer, 1 can of etch and 3 high build.
I prefer to avoid Nitromors and just rub down. Anything that won't easily sand off clearly still has a good bond and it avoids any worries over contamination remaining if not washed off thoroughly and dried even more thoroughly.
The last set of wheels I did, which were 17" ones and were completely resprayed (not just the front faces) used 5 cans of paint, 4 cans of lacquer, 1 can of etch and 3 high build.
Dog Star said:
You might want to see how smooth you can get the existing finish by sanding with progressively finer grades of sandpaper, as I've got myself into a world of pain in the past by stripping stuff.
Agreed - I had very good results just keying the surface of a set of wheels, then Halfords primer and a few of their top coats/lacquer. It was much less work than a complete strip-down, and gave as near a perfect finish as I could ever manage by hand.Krikkit said:
Agreed - I had very good results just keying the surface of a set of wheels, then Halfords primer and a few of their top coats/lacquer. It was much less work than a complete strip-down, and gave as near a perfect finish as I could ever manage by hand.
That will do for me. I'll read through a good guide once I'm ready to go, but how many coats of Etch would you guys recommend?
So no more than 2 full sets per day then ... 
As has already been said a 400ml can would do two wheels and allow more for the clear coat to seal the finish.
I'd support the rubbing down part. Trying to strip an alloy is an evil task to get right unless you have the proper gear.
A good flatting back and steady even coats should see you right. Just take your time and if you can get the rims indoors to help the curing process.....although it doesn't always go down well
I'd support the rubbing down part. Trying to strip an alloy is an evil task to get right unless you have the proper gear.
A good flatting back and steady even coats should see you right. Just take your time and if you can get the rims indoors to help the curing process.....although it doesn't always go down well
Refurbed a winter set of 4 16" BMW 'Turbine'-style alloys last year and used 1 can of etch primer, 1 can of high build grey primer, 2 silver base & 2 lacquer - all 400ml. Could have got away with less paint but I was refurbing both sides of the wheels and there are a lot of nooks and crannies in that particular design of wheel (a lot of awkward rubbing down).
All the products were Upol 1k paints and I was pretty pleased with the results, although I've just noticed that the lacquer has dulled a fraction since it was done last summer.
Have the same job to do this year on the summer set of rims (Turbines again, front and back) and will be trying a 2k lacquer in rattle cans which I hope will give me a more durable finish. The 2k stuff needs using with care and a proper air-fed face mask will be needed.
All the products were Upol 1k paints and I was pretty pleased with the results, although I've just noticed that the lacquer has dulled a fraction since it was done last summer.
Have the same job to do this year on the summer set of rims (Turbines again, front and back) and will be trying a 2k lacquer in rattle cans which I hope will give me a more durable finish. The 2k stuff needs using with care and a proper air-fed face mask will be needed.
Why not just get them properly refurbished?
If they're going on something nice, spend the extra few quid and get them properly stripped and powder coated, if they're going on a shed, all that prepping, primer, top coats and lacquer are a waste of money. At that rate, DIY is going to cost you £80 in paint where a professional job which will last years longer and be only circa £200.
Paul
If they're going on something nice, spend the extra few quid and get them properly stripped and powder coated, if they're going on a shed, all that prepping, primer, top coats and lacquer are a waste of money. At that rate, DIY is going to cost you £80 in paint where a professional job which will last years longer and be only circa £200.
Paul
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