Wax oil a modern car?
Discussion
Petrol Only said:
I have a new ocatvia estate I hope to run for many many years.
Is it worth sealing a modern car?
It's great on the mx5 mot in a can
Not all of it but not a bad idea to do the brake pipes ,but otherwise washing mud and road salt of the underside from time to time should be all that's required...Is it worth sealing a modern car?
It's great on the mx5 mot in a can
If as you say you're planning on a long term ownership then certainly the brake lines, etc. But a good check over every so often and cleaning under the wheel arches of crud should keep it happy.
That said keeping all drain holes clear is a must, bottom of doors etc.
Do modern car rust bodily anymore? Well apart from the current thread on the four year old Kia(?) that has a rust crossmember but that being due to having a plastic cover over it holding moisture
That said keeping all drain holes clear is a must, bottom of doors etc.
Do modern car rust bodily anymore? Well apart from the current thread on the four year old Kia(?) that has a rust crossmember but that being due to having a plastic cover over it holding moisture
Riknos said:
The mk3 MX-5s still rust (2006 onwards model) so yes, modern cars still do, they're just too new right now.
This Mazda's are very prone to rusting the mazda 6 and 3 do have rust forming on the rear arches and don't get me started on mx5 mk3 are terriable for it.To answer the question no, no real point for new car infact you make it worse, unless its a mx5 then yes do that.
Ozzie Osmond said:
Petrol Only said:
Is it worth sealing a modern car?
No. Avoid.HumbleJim said:
Wax oil type treatments can trap moisture and rust underneath. With a galvanised body shell I wouldn't bother, worth inspecting once a yr though.
some of the old under seals do this... not the waxy, none drying ones... next time you are under an old car, have a look at the areas of bodywork close to where there have been oil leaks, like a diff pinion leak, or gearbox tail housing leak.. Just a little bit of oil on the metal keeps the rust off... compare that to areas adjacent where no oil has sprayed...I am a big advocate of rust protection on a car you intend to keep. I waxoyled a Lancia Montecarlo when it was close to new... 30 years on it was still on most of the original panels... I have done many cars since, many of them rust prone, and have never had a problem with rust. Around 1999 my mate had a newish 3 series BMW convertible which he said he was going to keep... I suggested he waxoyled it and popped around to help him... We first took the carpets out of the boot and did in there, and over the rear wheel arches... the boot lid... he never bothered doing any more though... roll on 10 years and he still had the car... Perfect rear arches, boot, but rusty sills, rust all over it, except the bits we did...
There are several things to remember though... Prevention is better than cure. The earlier its rust proofed, the better it will survive. If you are using waxoyle, make the first coat inside the cavities and underside really thin. I use 50/50 mix with white spirits. that way it gets into all the nooks and crannies, and seeps into the joints of spot welded panels.
I have recently done an MX5, which was fairly rot free before I started, and also an SLK, which had no corrosion on it, but I didn't want to take any chances as I will probably keep it for a while.
I am also a big advocate of ACF-50 for the engine components. Its used by a lot of bikes to keep corrosion at bay, and a yearly coat on the engine components keeps the corrosion at bay on many alloy items. I have used this for around 15 years from when it first came out in the aircraft industry.
When people say don't use Waxoyle, use Dinitrol or other similar products I always ask what they base their recommendation on... when pressed, many will say due to the advertisement and marketing material by the companies... Well they would say its good wouldn't they! I continue to use Waxoyle... I first used it in 1975 to coat the inside of a Reliant Scimitar Chassis (KOJ 726E - where are you now?)and I know that car lasted many many years.. and I have used it on many cars since, and for me it works. Newer products MAY be better... but I don't have enough years left to test them out! so. its still Waxoyle for me.
Some pictures...
The spray head I use for injecting the Waxoyle into cavities. Using the pressure pot below at 100PSI I get good atomisation and a nice even coat in sills and such (you can check after with one of the cheap snake USB cameras off Ebay)
This is our 1998 Corolla... I used ACF-50 on this when we first had it... this was taken a while ago, it really does keep engines nice!
I also have some thin waxoyle in a small plastic bottle with a spout, and I use this to run some round things like mirrors, trims, boot locks, door locks ect.
And for people that say modern cars don't rot... Take a look under a recent Mazda 6 or Google sill corrosion Mazda 6!
scorcher said:
Beat me to it! great for engine and maybe suspension components, but not for underneath and inside cavities...I wouldn't waste my time on a VAG car except for the brake pipes, as already recommended, although I think even they are now plastic coated! I have no doubt that the Body of your Skoda will retain its integrity for the lifespan of the mechanical components attached to it.
VAG shells are excellent and in fact are some of the most resilient in the industry - they put MB and BMW to shame. Have a look at how many 1998 MMk4 Golf's are still rust free, and even older cars like the Mk2 Ibiza.
Dinitrol make excellent products for the underbody and box sections.
VAG shells are excellent and in fact are some of the most resilient in the industry - they put MB and BMW to shame. Have a look at how many 1998 MMk4 Golf's are still rust free, and even older cars like the Mk2 Ibiza.
Dinitrol make excellent products for the underbody and box sections.
The note of caution with new cars is that it will invalidate the manufacturer's corrosion warranty. I confess that I wouldn't bother about that if I was keeping the car - especially after the Mk5 Golf "wing affair". I have a Mk5 Golf, but the wings are sound - the tops of the sills had rust bubbling, but I sorted that myself because, if VW can't get something like that right, I don't have faith in their repairs!
I used to use Waxoyl, but have found it doesn't last too long and coverage in box sections doesn't seem as good as other products. My late mother had a Metro that I treated annually from 1989 to 2005 (when she sold it with 30K on the clock) and the rear wheel arches were going and it had three new front wings. Another thing I found with Waxoyl was that it reacted with any factory applied underseal and caused it to crack. The underside of my Mk2 Golf was a mass of thick crazed and cracked stuff - I had to do it twice a year!
I stopped using Waxoyl on my cars when I swapped the Mk2 for a Passat. The Passat was nine when it went, the underside was perfect, though the edges of the rear wheel arches were both well pitted and filled several times in the nine years. The Passat "died" (I sold it just before it did) and the replacement Mk4 Golf got to ten years old with no Waxoyl - and only two problems with rust: where the front mudflaps had rubbed the wheel arches! Those were cured with some careful spot-blasting and a few minutes with rattle cans (one being a good etch primer). Both the Passat and the Mk4 Golf got "F***ing good" appraisals for body condition when I sold them (the Golf was written off and the insurance assessor enthused about the condition for ages). OK, there was rust on springs etc, but nothing that would give cause for concern on the average daily driver.
I won't deny that some cars have rust problems - I've seen a few around here as our salty air and tidal flooding speeds up the corrosion somewhat.
I remember a lad washing off a traded in Marina in the late 70's. You could see marks in the mud under the wheel arches where the tyres had rubbed mud off! After a few minutes with their steam cleaner, the car turned out to be virtually immaculate!!
One warning though - I never use a pressure washer at "full chat" on a car - especially underneath. Use plenty of water from a hose pipe (flow, not pressure) and don't worry about the water meter! I worked for a KEW agent in the early 80's and went on a KEW course (the first they did in the UK). We were told some horrific stories - and our firm's four year old Cherokee had lost its lacquer and showed some rust thanks to the service manger's insistence on using a pressure washer to clean it!
I used to use Waxoyl, but have found it doesn't last too long and coverage in box sections doesn't seem as good as other products. My late mother had a Metro that I treated annually from 1989 to 2005 (when she sold it with 30K on the clock) and the rear wheel arches were going and it had three new front wings. Another thing I found with Waxoyl was that it reacted with any factory applied underseal and caused it to crack. The underside of my Mk2 Golf was a mass of thick crazed and cracked stuff - I had to do it twice a year!
I stopped using Waxoyl on my cars when I swapped the Mk2 for a Passat. The Passat was nine when it went, the underside was perfect, though the edges of the rear wheel arches were both well pitted and filled several times in the nine years. The Passat "died" (I sold it just before it did) and the replacement Mk4 Golf got to ten years old with no Waxoyl - and only two problems with rust: where the front mudflaps had rubbed the wheel arches! Those were cured with some careful spot-blasting and a few minutes with rattle cans (one being a good etch primer). Both the Passat and the Mk4 Golf got "F***ing good" appraisals for body condition when I sold them (the Golf was written off and the insurance assessor enthused about the condition for ages). OK, there was rust on springs etc, but nothing that would give cause for concern on the average daily driver.
I won't deny that some cars have rust problems - I've seen a few around here as our salty air and tidal flooding speeds up the corrosion somewhat.
I remember a lad washing off a traded in Marina in the late 70's. You could see marks in the mud under the wheel arches where the tyres had rubbed mud off! After a few minutes with their steam cleaner, the car turned out to be virtually immaculate!!
One warning though - I never use a pressure washer at "full chat" on a car - especially underneath. Use plenty of water from a hose pipe (flow, not pressure) and don't worry about the water meter! I worked for a KEW agent in the early 80's and went on a KEW course (the first they did in the UK). We were told some horrific stories - and our firm's four year old Cherokee had lost its lacquer and showed some rust thanks to the service manger's insistence on using a pressure washer to clean it!
Ozzie Osmond said:
buzzer said:
Ozzie Osmond said:
No. Avoid.
Why avoid? what experience or evidence do you base that on?But, we all have opinions!
buzzer said:
But, we all have opinions!
How true and we can only make suggestions based on our own experience (BTW your car looks much better than mine!). The clever thing is finding out what works for you (or me) from the suggestions that have been given.I suspect you might remember the arguments in the sixties about positive and negative earth cars. "Positive ones didn't rust as quickly as these modern negative earthed ones do!" was a common comment (our rustiest cars were all positive-earthed machines). People could by sacrificial zinc anodes to stop their precious 50s and 60s cars from corroding (I fear "Snake oil" is a valid term) and having a car undersealed was actually a selling feature!
Some progress has been made with better steel, galvanised and zinc coated panels modern etch primers, epoxy underseals etc; but, as we all know, there are still fairly modern cars that have rust issues.
Two local cars with rust issues that spring to mind are a 2002 Yaris with rotten back wheel arches and a 2000/01 Vectra that is showing rust along the door bottoms and sills. Mind you, both have lasted well for this area - compared to cars of thirty or forty years ago.
While I don't use Waxoyl on the car, I spray the rams on my digger with it: it sits outside and I can't afford (or get) original rams for it - there's at least one that has to be extended when I take the digger off the tractor. Last winter's application is now very thin - almost gone in places. That's just with rain - no mechanical abrasion from stone chips or salt. The reason I use Waxoyl is because I can get it from local shops and I never remember to order "better" stuff before I need to use it!
As it happens, my last three cars were moved on because mechanical problems would cost too much to fix - the bodies were fine (and all were ten years old or more)! Perhaps that's why the current Golf is always dirty and looks as if it is neglected! I must have spent thousands on "pills, potions and the latest wonder stuff" to keep the previous cars looking good, only for them to end up as the best looking cars in the scrapyard!
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