Axle Stands...
Discussion
As above, depends on where it is going to sit on Axle stands. The car will be find for a week on a set of good quality ones, but are you likely to have numpty kids in the street trying to push your car off them when you're sleeping (which is what happened to someone i know who had this done outside their house). Personally, i'd buy a set of s
t wheels for the week and try and flog them on.
t wheels for the week and try and flog them on.It'll be secure on my drive...
Avoid folded ones...
Couple more questions...
1) Is there obvious contact points to use?
2) do you jack up side to side or front to back?
Apologies if I'm coming across as a numpty but there's a first time for everything and this is my first time.
Thanks for the replies
Avoid folded ones...
Couple more questions...
1) Is there obvious contact points to use?
2) do you jack up side to side or front to back?
Apologies if I'm coming across as a numpty but there's a first time for everything and this is my first time.
Thanks for the replies
^ this is the issue of axle stands, you need 2 places to jack the car 1 so that you can position the jack to provide the initial lift and a second to then place the axle stand under.
Hence it is sometimes easier if you have a decent size trolly jack to lift the whole back end via the rear axle and position the stands then onto the front subframe to fit 2 nearer the chassis rails.
Hence it is sometimes easier if you have a decent size trolly jack to lift the whole back end via the rear axle and position the stands then onto the front subframe to fit 2 nearer the chassis rails.
aka_kerrly said:
^ this is the issue of axle stands, you need 2 places to jack the car 1 so that you can position the jack to provide the initial lift and a second to then place the axle stand under.
Hence it is sometimes easier if you have a decent size trolly jack to lift the whole back end via the rear axle and position the stands then onto the front subframe to fit 2 nearer the chassis rails.
Sooooo I could get this wrong? Hence it is sometimes easier if you have a decent size trolly jack to lift the whole back end via the rear axle and position the stands then onto the front subframe to fit 2 nearer the chassis rails.
Think I might invest in a trolley jack.
Should be fine on axle stands.
I don't know what jack you have, but this one is one (of the three) I have, and it's my 'goto' one.
Depending on how much work you plan on doing on your car, I'd reccommend these stands because (1) they're very stable and (2) they go up high and are stable at height. It makes it much easier to do stuff if things are at sitting height (like brake pad change), or if you're under the car, less like the car is inches from your face. Makes it easier to lie on a creeper too. They are more expensive than regular Halfords jobbies, but they're *very* solidly build, and they don't have locking pins to go missing either.
jacking points will be in your owners manual, but apart from that, any solid looking flattish subframe will do. A bit of 4x2 will also work spreading load under the car if you're not confident, as well as helping get the whole end/side of the car up at once - a bit about a metre long is usually good.
As for front to back or side to side; it really depends on how easy it is to get the car up onto stands. On my TVR, I have to do front onto the first rung of the stands, then rear, then back to the front to get the stands a bit higer and then to the rear again for the same reason.
HTH.
Edited to sort out the URLs.
I don't know what jack you have, but this one is one (of the three
) I have, and it's my 'goto' one.Depending on how much work you plan on doing on your car, I'd reccommend these stands because (1) they're very stable and (2) they go up high and are stable at height. It makes it much easier to do stuff if things are at sitting height (like brake pad change), or if you're under the car, less like the car is inches from your face. Makes it easier to lie on a creeper too. They are more expensive than regular Halfords jobbies, but they're *very* solidly build, and they don't have locking pins to go missing either.
jacking points will be in your owners manual, but apart from that, any solid looking flattish subframe will do. A bit of 4x2 will also work spreading load under the car if you're not confident, as well as helping get the whole end/side of the car up at once - a bit about a metre long is usually good.
As for front to back or side to side; it really depends on how easy it is to get the car up onto stands. On my TVR, I have to do front onto the first rung of the stands, then rear, then back to the front to get the stands a bit higer and then to the rear again for the same reason.
HTH.
Edited to sort out the URLs.
Edited by EggsBenedict on Monday 12th May 15:18
Inless you have micro sized axle stands the standard jack that comes with your car will not always lift a car high enough to utilise axle stands.
I have the slightly higher rated version of this from CostCo a few years back and it has been tremendous, it's so much safer than the widow maker and due to the length/height when flat it will fit right under most lowered cars to.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Edit to add :EggsBenedict: think we are on the same wavelength
I have the slightly higher rated version of this from CostCo a few years back and it has been tremendous, it's so much safer than the widow maker and due to the length/height when flat it will fit right under most lowered cars to.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Edit to add :EggsBenedict: think we are on the same wavelength
Edited by aka_kerrly on Monday 12th May 15:19
hondafanatic said:
It'll be secure on my drive...
Avoid folded ones...
Couple more questions...
1) Is there obvious contact points to use?
2) do you jack up side to side or front to back?
Apologies if I'm coming across as a numpty but there's a first time for everything and this is my first time.
Thanks for the replies
If it's a tarmac drive put something under the stands to stop them sinking in...Avoid folded ones...
Couple more questions...
1) Is there obvious contact points to use?
2) do you jack up side to side or front to back?
Apologies if I'm coming across as a numpty but there's a first time for everything and this is my first time.
Thanks for the replies
Depending on the design of the suspension, you might be able to put axle stands under the suspension which will both protect the suspension bushes from being left under strain for a long time and save you needing a second jacking point.
As someone said above, the other option is to buy a cheap set of wheels.
Something else that I've done in the past is buy a sheet of half inch ply and make "wheels" out of it. That way you can still roll the car around if you want to (although you have to be very careful not to strain the ply the wrong way or it'll snap) but they wont take up as much space as a spare set of wheels when you aren't using them.
As someone said above, the other option is to buy a cheap set of wheels.
Something else that I've done in the past is buy a sheet of half inch ply and make "wheels" out of it. That way you can still roll the car around if you want to (although you have to be very careful not to strain the ply the wrong way or it'll snap) but they wont take up as much space as a spare set of wheels when you aren't using them.
Edited by kambites on Monday 12th May 17:44
Lots of good ideas and opinions. I appreciate all the input.
The car is a 57 plate and not massive mileage so the suspension should be fine, but I hadn't realised that could be an issue.
It's a bit of a one off as I don't do anything mechanical myself. The car is SORN so I can't drive it to the paint shop. I just wanted to whip the wheels off, get them painted and slap them back on.
I don't want to pay a fortune for the stands either.
And it'll be sat on a concrete floor so should be ok with that aspect.
I've certainly got a lot more info to work with now.
Many thanks.
The car is a 57 plate and not massive mileage so the suspension should be fine, but I hadn't realised that could be an issue.
It's a bit of a one off as I don't do anything mechanical myself. The car is SORN so I can't drive it to the paint shop. I just wanted to whip the wheels off, get them painted and slap them back on.
I don't want to pay a fortune for the stands either.
And it'll be sat on a concrete floor so should be ok with that aspect.
I've certainly got a lot more info to work with now.
Many thanks.
Look up info re jacking up the entire front and rear of your specific vehicle, on specific forums.
Makes life simple.
Failing that as it may be difficult on some cars - do ensure that you jack AND support from a suitable point, not just any flat surface as has unfortunately been suggested previously. Most flat surfaces on a modern car's underside are just sheet steel and you really don't want to support anything there unless you don't mind a hump in your footwell. Yes suspension can be suitable too, keeping in mind changes of angles etc as wishbones are compressed, and adequate packing too as required.
I have some rather serious looking jackstands but currently using a Lidl pair (folding no less) to jack up my Porsche's front end. Had to because it's difficult getting serious lift on a regular trolley jack on that car, so could not use the better (larger) ones. They are rated for more than the weight I put on them anyway and are holding up just fine.
Makes life simple.
Failing that as it may be difficult on some cars - do ensure that you jack AND support from a suitable point, not just any flat surface as has unfortunately been suggested previously. Most flat surfaces on a modern car's underside are just sheet steel and you really don't want to support anything there unless you don't mind a hump in your footwell. Yes suspension can be suitable too, keeping in mind changes of angles etc as wishbones are compressed, and adequate packing too as required.
I have some rather serious looking jackstands but currently using a Lidl pair (folding no less) to jack up my Porsche's front end. Had to because it's difficult getting serious lift on a regular trolley jack on that car, so could not use the better (larger) ones. They are rated for more than the weight I put on them anyway and are holding up just fine.
Having done a quick look to see if anywhere near you will rent you the equipment the likes of Brandon tool hire want £18 for 2 axle stands for a day or £30 for a week, but you need 4. For that money you could buy the halfords lift kit plus
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
and a couple of extra stands to make a full set and know that you are sorted in the future or be really cheeky buy it use it (without damaging) and take it back as an unwanted present hehe.
If you only need them for a few days could a local PH member perhaps help some?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
and a couple of extra stands to make a full set and know that you are sorted in the future or be really cheeky buy it use it (without damaging) and take it back as an unwanted present hehe.
If you only need them for a few days could a local PH member perhaps help some?
J4CKO said:
My 944 spent 2 months on axle stands, it survived.
Whether it can do any harm depends on the type of bushes used. Rubber bushes aren't usually free to rotate but rather the rubber is bonded to both the inside and outside surface of the bush. You tighten the bolts up with the weight on the suspension so the bushes are relaxed when the car is sitting still; then the rubber twists and stretches to allow the wishbone to move around the joint. This means that if the suspension is left at anything other than the car's natural ride height (or the bolts are tightened with the suspension in the wrong position) the bushes are constantly under stress and will eventually break down and split.
Nylon bushes and rose-joints (roller-bearings) don't have this problem because there is a proper bearing that's free to rotate within the bush.
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