Attempting to change a wheel.

[Chilli]

Changing the 2nd wheel of my life, and I can't get the thing off. It's in park, up on the jack, nuts removed and it won't budge. Been running for 50kms on about 6 psi so would that have messed things up?
Kicking and a tap with a hammer has made no difference. What blindingly obvious thing have a missed? Yes, it's off the ground!

It's a Ford Expedition in case that matters. Any thoughts?

Cheers.

[kambites]

Put the nuts most of the way back on but still leaving a little bit of space for the wheel to move; put the car back to the ground then roll it backwards and forwards until the seal breaks.

Alternatively, buy a bigger hammer (and a block of wood).

Edited by kambites on Sunday 8th June 08:47

[wemorgan]

block of wood on the inside rim then hit with a lump hammer

[Fleckers]

alloy wheel and steel hum ?

sounds like they have bonded

get some propper support under the car and assist it to break the bond

OR

pump up the tyre

put nuts back on finger tight and drive a a few feet back and forth to get it to break the bond, do a U turn if you can

[Mave]

Probably wheel corroded to hub. Try kicking the tyre at the bottom with the back of your heel. If that doesn't work, do it all up a smidge more than finger tight and drive around the block.

[Chilli]

Thanks gents, will give it a go.

[Chilli]

Failed!
Right, nuts on finger tight, up and down the drive, then back on the jack. 'Uck me it's hot here.

[kambites]

I think it's just a question of finding the right balance between driving far enough and fast enough to loosen the wheel without being dangerous.

[Sensibleboy]

I tend to loosen the nuts and roll gently up a kerb
..never fails.

[snoopy25]

bigger hammer and block of wood fella

[V8covin]

I've never had any luck with the loosen the nuts a bit and drive it method.
But I've had a 100% success rate with jack it up (on a stand if you're worried about health n safety ),get yourself a big hammer,a sledge hammer ideally,lie on your back and give the inside sidewall of the tyre a wack,rotate the wheel a bit and repeat.It will come off in the end.Don't hit the wheel,hit the tyre.

Now,it helps if there's air in the tyre

[Chilli]

Bingo, it's off. Finger-tight bolts, 20 yards up the road with a fast turn into a neighbours drive, and back again! A little kick and it came off.

Thanks gentlemen, really helpful advice.

Cheers.

[DrDeAtH]

A smear of copper grease on the hub mating face will help to stop it corroding on again.

[smack]

Nick, I know you track record, just pay a little man to deal with it.

[RemaL]

or it will end up in a hedge

[Chilli]

Am I not safe anywhere these days?! Unemployed, so bored. Anyway, didn't want to damage the rim by driving it, and to have the man come round would have required 50 phone calls and taken the whole day. Puncture repaired in 4, honestly, 4 minutes.

Cheers.

[Mave]

DrDeAtH said:

A smear of copper grease on the hub mating face will help to stop it corroding on again.

And also stop the joint working properly. You need friction between the wheel and hub to transmit torque...

[imagineifyeswill]

How do you work that one out, the wheels bolted tight to the hub where does the friction come onto it.

[wemorgan]

friction stops bolts from slipping, you don't want slip in bolts as the next stage is failure.

[Mr2Mike]

Mave said:

And also stop the joint working properly. You need friction between the wheel and hub to transmit torque...

The wheels on every car I have ever owned have fallen off due to doing this. Oh wait...