Help removing a stuck allens bolt

[.blue]

Short story: Got a big stuck allens bolt that I need to loosen. It won't loosen (nor tighten) and is what I'd describe as properly stuck.

I've just bought an impact driver and some penetrating spray but that hasn't worked. I'm not the best mechanically and don't have many tools (e.g. so heating the nut is out of the question). Is there anything else I can try?

Presumably I'm using the impact driver correctly if I just hammer the end while trying to unscrew like a normal screwdriver?

This is all to do the deceptively simple job of removing a crash bung/protector on my bike which has come loose and now rattles on uneven roads/when I accelerate.

[steveo3002]

the impact driver will try and turn when you hit it..no need to try and turn it yourself , make sure its set to anticlockwise

you can also try soaking in plus gas overnight or one of the freeze sprays you can get

Edited by steveo3002 on Sunday 22 June 13:30

[996TT02]

Use a socket ratchet with the correctly sized hex bit.

Make sure that you clean out the inside of the allen bolt head, if the bit slips and the hex rounds, you are quite properly screwed. Well, almost, but things get a bit more interesting. So make sure the bit is seated as deeply as possible.

[Pesty]

Re re edit now I've read your whole post.

I had a crash bung snap on me.

I had to drill a hole in the remaining screw and use an easy out. You may have to do that.

Go get a cheap blow torch from b&q if it's been out in with lock tight you might need to burn it off.

I imagine the bolt has gone through frame into engine block Whitc is alloy and bolt is different material so corroded in place. Again heat may help.

As for the impact driver think of it like a ratchet they adjust for left or right threads.. Mine works both ways so set it go loosen then just wha kit with a hammer.

A long breaker bar would be better leverage will be your friend as above don't strip the head.

[DuraAce]

Hammer a torx bit into it, should grip better in the Allen bolt.

[.blue]

The screw head is fine - no slipping and the key/attachment-heads seem to fit well enough.

I dont need the crash bung (it's had a crash so isn't doing much now) - would it be easier just to saw it off, leaving the bolt in place but removing the bung? Only potential issue is sawing such a small space but I trust myself with a saw more than I do a blow torch (never used one before).

I'm struggling to understand how the bolt holding the bung became loose enough for it to rattle but now won't loosen even if I deliberately try...

[Mastodon2]

996TT02 said:

Use a socket ratchet with the correctly sized hex bit.

Make sure that you clean out the inside of the allen bolt head, if the bit slips and the hex rounds, you are quite properly screwed. Well, almost, but things get a bit more interesting. So make sure the bit is seated as deeply as possible.

I did this when trying to swap exhaust cans on my bike. One was absolutely stuck fast, soaked it in loads of GT85, even tried seating the allen key and standing my weight it with both feet, when the bike started to lift towards me off the side stand I knew that bolt was going nowhere, a couple of slips rounded it off (and took some skin off my knuckles). When I took it to a garage they couldn't shift it with heat so had to drill it out in the end.

[Alucidnation]

Heat.

[ianrb]

Mastodon2 said:

996TT02 said:

Use a socket ratchet with the correctly sized hex bit.

Make sure that you clean out the inside of the allen bolt head, if the bit slips and the hex rounds, you are quite properly screwed. Well, almost, but things get a bit more interesting. So make sure the bit is seated as deeply as possible.

I did this when trying to swap exhaust cans on my bike. One was absolutely stuck fast, soaked it in loads of GT85, even tried seating the allen key and standing my weight it with both feet, when the bike started to lift towards me off the side stand I knew that bolt was going nowhere, a couple of slips rounded it off (and took some skin off my knuckles). When I took it to a garage they couldn't shift it with heat so had to drill it out in the end.

GT85 is just a general purpose lubricant, you need to use a specific penetrating fluid, something like Plus Gas and leave it overnight.

Also a set of allen bits which will fit into a socket set will give you far more leverage than an allen key can.

[eldar]

ianrb said:

Also a set of allen bits which will fit into a socket set will give you far more leverage than an allen key can.

Good quality one, so the allen bit doesn't snap off. BTSTETP

[steveo3002]

yeah try a socket and a breaker bar on it

could give the bolt head a good belt with a hammer to try and loosen any corrosion

[ShaunTheSheep]

Your local wheel stud removal people will have an induction heater.

Would be cheaper than buying your own torch. Any diy torch that can push out enough BTUs to be worthwhile will be over the £30 fee these guys advertise.

It's like having a gas torch that burns quite a lot hotter than oxyacetylene but also a lot more focused - you don't get the heat soak of a torch. Also no flames.

[.blue]

Thanks all for the suggestions.

I've just read that the penetrating spray I've used is flammable so not sure if the torch is an option any more.

In other news the Halfords impact driver (£18 - only one they had) is rubbish or I'm not using it right - tried it on a few other bolts and it's equally useless.

Not how I thought I'd be spending a sunny Saturday afternoon...

[catman]

.blue said:

In other news the Halfords impact driver (£18 - only one they had) is rubbish or I'm not using it right - tried it on a few other bolts and it's equally useless.

Are you sure that you have it set to undo the bolt and not tighten it? I've used them several times and they worked brilliantly.

When you hit it, the head should twist anti-clockwise, looking from the point of view of the end that you hit.

Tim

[Cyberprog]

An induction heater would be ideal, but failing that a DIJ Plumbing blowtorch on it would probably suffice.

[Private Pile]

OP, where abouts in the country are you? Maybe someone local can help out?

[paintman]

Ensure that the impact driver is set so that it will ty to undo the bolt when hit.
Twist it in the direction you want it to turn.
Hit HARD with a decent sized lump hammer - don't tap it or mess about with small hammers.
It will usually either move the stuck item or shear it.

[ecotec]

heat it, failing that this is corded so should do the trick

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...

Halfords also sell shock and unlock which is meant to be good, haven't used it myself though

[.blue]

This is what I watched before using the impact driver: http://youtu.be/Og0wilzMtXY?t=4m2s

Definitely set to L to loosen but the bolt wont budge at all...

Shops closed so couldn't get myself something to heat it with unfortunately. I'm going to give the impact driver one last go and if that fails will try and saw off the crash protector.

Another alternative is to use a drill - any point doing this while the bolt head is still relatively undamaged?

Edited by .blue on Sunday 22 June 17:47

[NWTony]

I'm no expert... have you tried hitting it with a hammer, see if you can break the seal. Also get a hex socket on it and bar and hit that with a hammer, it's like a more abrupt impact wrench, Try it tightning and loosening as well.