POR15 On A Non-Stripped Car - Feasible?
Discussion
I recently purchased a 2004 F150 yank, it's suffering from the usual rust and needs something doing about it. Now, I have no intention of stripping the truck to bits down to the chassis and painting each component individually. The best I can do is pop it on some axle stands around 0.5m about ground level.
How feasible is it to prepare all the rusty metal and paint POR15 in a lying down upside down position? Is this doomed to fail? Anyone done it on an already built vehicle before with all the components in the way?
From a future maintenance point of view, should I keep away from painting earthing points, brake components such as pipes and ferrules, and nuts and bolts which are likely to be removed during the truck's life?
How feasible is it to prepare all the rusty metal and paint POR15 in a lying down upside down position? Is this doomed to fail? Anyone done it on an already built vehicle before with all the components in the way?
From a future maintenance point of view, should I keep away from painting earthing points, brake components such as pipes and ferrules, and nuts and bolts which are likely to be removed during the truck's life?
Edited by EViS on Wednesday 23 July 11:41
I used POR15 during a mini restoration. It is not the easiest to use as it is quite runny and requires clean bare metal to go onto, then you are supposed to key it before painting on top of it. Two years down the line though and it is holding up well.
As long as you can get to all the bits you need then you could make as good a job of it if it were stripped. It will require more patience though.
It is worth treating the metal first with something called "ready prep".
As long as you can get to all the bits you need then you could make as good a job of it if it were stripped. It will require more patience though.
It is worth treating the metal first with something called "ready prep".
Not sure I'd use POR - I've heard too many stories of it being a bit flaky (literally) if you don't follow the instructions and stages to the expensive letter.
Get it up in the air, give it as good a clean as you possibly can - anything at all even remotely flaky back to bare shiny metal. If there's flakiness and brown spreading from behind fixings, then you KNOW it'll be worse behind them. Then I'd go with something like schutz.
Whatever you paint over threads and heads is going to make life difficult later.
Get it up in the air, give it as good a clean as you possibly can - anything at all even remotely flaky back to bare shiny metal. If there's flakiness and brown spreading from behind fixings, then you KNOW it'll be worse behind them. Then I'd go with something like schutz.
Whatever you paint over threads and heads is going to make life difficult later.
EViS said:
What would the benefit be of using Dinitrol over Por15 in my case?
Read up on it different types depending on use (new metal/corroded metal etc). You can just wire brush any loose stuff and apply. I've used it some I painted on and an aerosol to squirt into box sections. Well rated amongst the classic car boys as a (much) better and easier to apply alternative to waxoyl.EViS said:
What would the benefit be of using Dinitrol over Por15 in my case?
POR is paint.Dinitrol is wax.
They're very different products, so you can't really say "What's the benefits?". The metal needs to be painted, then you may want to wax it for longer-lasting protection. You can wax over existing grot, but it won't remove it.
What's actually your aim here? Prolong the life a few years, or indefinitely? If the latter, then you need to be prepared to start stripping the underside off and properly prepping and protecting it, not just slapping a tin of paint around stuff that's hiding grot.
Edited by TooMany2cvs on Thursday 24th July 08:28
I'd want to prolong the life indefinitely, definitely not for just a couple years. Maybe I need to do the components around each wheel over 4 weekends, then start working my way from front to back of the chassis over a couple more weekends. Is that a feasible time frame? Or am I not going to get very far over say 8 weekends? I don't have the time to strip the vehicle down to the chassis, on top of I am wanting to use it...
I've done it to the flaky underside of a few jap cars. It's perfectly feasible on some axle stands. Get some decent drill wire brushes, wire brush the crap out of everything you're going to paint. Use the proper cleaner and degreaser before you paint it on. Make sure that anything you don't want to have POR15 on for ever (like, for example, your face) is covered up.
EViS said:
I'd want to prolong the life indefinitely, definitely not for just a couple years.
...
I don't have the time to strip the vehicle down to the chassis
There is a fundamental incompatibility here, then. It sounds as if the factory protection apparently consisted of a coat of salty water, if it's so bad after just a decade. So you are going to HAVE to strip down, clean everything back, and then prep/paint/protect properly. Anything else is just delaying the day when you do have to do that, and making that job more difficult, because you'll have whatever you've applied in the interim to deal with....
I don't have the time to strip the vehicle down to the chassis
If you put anything on top of the original protection, it's no better adhered than that is. Wherever you have an edge - against a bolted component - you've got a route for moisture to get in. Underneath that bolted component, you've got the original factory rubbish still. Next to it, you've got a route for the grot to creep underneath the good stuff, and start work below it. Next thing you know, you've got bits coming detached because there's nothing holding them on, and when you clean around to start welding, you find yourself having to go further and further before you hit good metal.
If you're not after cups at shows then just wirebrush any flaky stuff then Dinitrol or one of the Bilt-Hamber products over the top and especially inside the box sections. Re-do it every few years, perhaps more often for impact areas like wheelarches etc. Life's too short to be pissing about painting the underside of a car. Hiring a compressor and applicator gun makes life even easier.
rovermorris999 said:
If you're not after cups at shows then just wirebrush any flaky stuff then Dinitrol or one of the Bilt-Hamber products over the top and especially inside the box sections. Re-do it every few years, perhaps more often for impact areas like wheelarches etc. Life's too short to be pissing about painting the underside of a car. Hiring a compressor and applicator gun makes life even easier.
Unless you can strip it then don't bother painting. This. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^If you do strip and paint imagine how you would feel the 1st time you drove over loose chippings.
Edited by HumbleJim on Thursday 24th July 15:45
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