Freelander "2wd to save fuel" / "prop removed to save fuel"
Discussion
When did this f
kwittery start? See no end of cheap MK1 Freelanders with "2WD to save petrol" or "prop removed to save fuel" in the advert - does anyone really fall for that and not know that it's because the couplings are shagged? One of the most common Freelander problems is it not?!
kwittery start? See no end of cheap MK1 Freelanders with "2WD to save petrol" or "prop removed to save fuel" in the advert - does anyone really fall for that and not know that it's because the couplings are shagged? One of the most common Freelander problems is it not?!kambites said:
Does the Freelander not have a 2wd mode anyway?
It uses Haldex AWD.From what I read when I was considering one, it's the coupling that often fails (IIRC at around 70k miles), leading to the destruction of the rear diff. Servicing the coupling (replacing the fluid) is the "correct" answer and costs about £300.
Problem comes when it's been 'converted' to 2wd and the buyer hasn't been informed.
Likewise XC90 Volvos - I think they can 'lose' some driven wheels if poorly.
I do know someone who boasted he'd got a really good deal on a Rav 4 winter runabout just before the snow came, which quickly became not so good a deal when he realised it was the 2wd model
Likewise XC90 Volvos - I think they can 'lose' some driven wheels if poorly.
I do know someone who boasted he'd got a really good deal on a Rav 4 winter runabout just before the snow came, which quickly became not so good a deal when he realised it was the 2wd model
To be fair and balanced I have driven a couple with no prop fitted and they do tend to drive in a nicer manner.
One of those was a 2.5 V6 auto which I was assured was now doing >20% better fuel consumption with the prop removed,but as it was a short drive I cant verify that.
And at least if you pull up and turn off with the front wheels steered more than 10 degrees in a manual one with no prop you can get the bd out of gear.
What shags the props in the first place is poorly matched tyres,I suspect the horrible transmission wind-up on tight turns don`t help either.
Any variation in rolling radius,like different brands,different wear rates front to rear and across axle i.e.two brand new fronts and a pair of half worn rears,all have a detrimental affect on the coupling,rear diff mounts(which are first to suffer),rear diff and transfer box.
We are starting to see lots of Haldex rear diff units on F/L 2`s,bearing failure is common as is the coupling it`s self failing which is now built into the rear diff.
One of those was a 2.5 V6 auto which I was assured was now doing >20% better fuel consumption with the prop removed,but as it was a short drive I cant verify that.
And at least if you pull up and turn off with the front wheels steered more than 10 degrees in a manual one with no prop you can get the b
d out of gear.What shags the props in the first place is poorly matched tyres,I suspect the horrible transmission wind-up on tight turns don`t help either.
Any variation in rolling radius,like different brands,different wear rates front to rear and across axle i.e.two brand new fronts and a pair of half worn rears,all have a detrimental affect on the coupling,rear diff mounts(which are first to suffer),rear diff and transfer box.
We are starting to see lots of Haldex rear diff units on F/L 2`s,bearing failure is common as is the coupling it`s self failing which is now built into the rear diff.
Clivey said:
It uses Haldex AWD.
From what I read when I was considering one, it's the coupling that often fails (IIRC at around 70k miles), leading to the destruction of the rear diff. Servicing the coupling (replacing the fluid) is the "correct" answer and costs about £300.
It's not Haldex, it's just a basic viscous coupling. There are no electronic control systems of any kind in the transmission.From what I read when I was considering one, it's the coupling that often fails (IIRC at around 70k miles), leading to the destruction of the rear diff. Servicing the coupling (replacing the fluid) is the "correct" answer and costs about £300.
It's also not really a user serviceable part, you can't just drain and replace the fluid. You can buy reconditioned couplings however, and they aren't ridiculously priced (~£200 for coupling and bearings).
Mr2Mike said:
It's not Haldex, it's just a basic viscous coupling. There are no electronic control systems of any kind in the transmission.
It's also not really a user serviceable part, you can't just drain and replace the fluid. You can buy reconditioned couplings however, and they aren't ridiculously priced (~£200 for coupling and bearings).
I think he has confused mk1 and 2 the mk2 has a Haldex/Ford rear diff.It's also not really a user serviceable part, you can't just drain and replace the fluid. You can buy reconditioned couplings however, and they aren't ridiculously priced (~£200 for coupling and bearings).
The `service` is actually £40 worth of Haldex fluid sold in a standard 9 inch cartridge.
shoehorn said:
Mr2Mike said:
It's not Haldex, it's just a basic viscous coupling. There are no electronic control systems of any kind in the transmission.
It's also not really a user serviceable part, you can't just drain and replace the fluid. You can buy reconditioned couplings however, and they aren't ridiculously priced (~£200 for coupling and bearings).
I think he has confused mk1 and 2 the mk2 has a Haldex/Ford rear diff.It's also not really a user serviceable part, you can't just drain and replace the fluid. You can buy reconditioned couplings however, and they aren't ridiculously priced (~£200 for coupling and bearings).
The `service` is actually £40 worth of Haldex fluid sold in a standard 9 inch cartridge.
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