Could this action goose a battery?
Discussion
Hi all, I fitted a brand new Bosch battery to my mx5 around march this year whilst I had it off the road doing some other maintenance.
I then ran it until june without issues, using it from every few days to once a week and at some points 2 weeks between uses. The car started fine, on the button.
Then, around June time I aquired and fitted a supercharger, having the car towed to a specialist to fit the ecu and finish the supercharger install.
As it happened, a part on the fuel rail was corroded and broke during my install, so the specialist replaced this. This meant that at the time he got it, it wasn't a runner.
The car is back with me now and running sweet. However, the brand new battery last no more than a few days before it's so dead it won't start the car. If I jump it or charge it with my trickle charger then it's fine. And it'll start the car after a run so the battery is still getting charged.
Anyway, I was playing with the dash cam footage today and noticed several videos, totally around 4 minutes, where, whilst at the specialist, the car is being moved around on the starter. So, whoever was moving it had it in 1st gear and was cranking the ignition over to move the car, repeatedly until it was in the yard/ in the workshop etc.
Question is, could doing this for the time specified, really kill the battery and stop it being able to hold a charge? Or have I just added a parasitic drain with all the new kit being added?
I then ran it until june without issues, using it from every few days to once a week and at some points 2 weeks between uses. The car started fine, on the button.
Then, around June time I aquired and fitted a supercharger, having the car towed to a specialist to fit the ecu and finish the supercharger install.
As it happened, a part on the fuel rail was corroded and broke during my install, so the specialist replaced this. This meant that at the time he got it, it wasn't a runner.
The car is back with me now and running sweet. However, the brand new battery last no more than a few days before it's so dead it won't start the car. If I jump it or charge it with my trickle charger then it's fine. And it'll start the car after a run so the battery is still getting charged.
Anyway, I was playing with the dash cam footage today and noticed several videos, totally around 4 minutes, where, whilst at the specialist, the car is being moved around on the starter. So, whoever was moving it had it in 1st gear and was cranking the ignition over to move the car, repeatedly until it was in the yard/ in the workshop etc.
Question is, could doing this for the time specified, really kill the battery and stop it being able to hold a charge? Or have I just added a parasitic drain with all the new kit being added?
it wouldn't be great for the battery, but is VERY bad for the starter motor!
I notice you mentioned a replacement ECU, perhaps the new ECU is draining the battery, or perhaps a wire has rubbed through and is short circuiting draining the battery.
If you disconnect the battery for the same amount of days, is it flat? That would be the easy test.
Or, you need to hook an ammeter in series with the battery cable and see what its drawing with everything off, it should be pretty much zero with only an alarm/clock drawing power.
I notice you mentioned a replacement ECU, perhaps the new ECU is draining the battery, or perhaps a wire has rubbed through and is short circuiting draining the battery.
If you disconnect the battery for the same amount of days, is it flat? That would be the easy test.
Or, you need to hook an ammeter in series with the battery cable and see what its drawing with everything off, it should be pretty much zero with only an alarm/clock drawing power.
morgrp said:
As already mentioned - just take it back - all Bosch have a 3 year warranty. I've always found for some reason the Silver S4 are better and more long lasting than the S5
It's an S4 that's fitted. Fair enough, I could take it back. However, if I have a battery drain issue then that's a pointless task!!eltax91 said:
It's an S4 that's fitted. Fair enough, I could take it back. However, if I have a battery drain issue then that's a pointless task!!
Got a multimeter? Yes? Good. Diagnose it properly. What charging voltage? Is it holding charge over a couple of days? What draw are you getting?Not got a multimeter? Get one! £10-15, and it's one of the most useful bits of kit you could have, both domestically and on the cars.
TooMany2cvs said:
eltax91 said:
It's an S4 that's fitted. Fair enough, I could take it back. However, if I have a battery drain issue then that's a pointless task!!
Got a multimeter? Yes? Good. Diagnose it properly. What charging voltage? Is it holding charge over a couple of days? What draw are you getting?Not got a multimeter? Get one! £10-15, and it's one of the most useful bits of kit you could have, both domestically and on the cars.
When the car is running, it's showing 14+v, so the alternator is charging fine.
Leave it for more than a day or two though and it's not got any charge in it. not enough for the lights, or to start the car.
I hope you've given the "specialist" a b****cking? Have they offered to replace your starter/battery?
Recently had my car in for a service at a very highly recommended/respected "specialist". Noticed fuel economy was going down and felt a bit sluggish, thought it was down to the slightly blowing exhaust. Turns out the oil was overfilled.
Recently had my car in for a service at a very highly recommended/respected "specialist". Noticed fuel economy was going down and felt a bit sluggish, thought it was down to the slightly blowing exhaust. Turns out the oil was overfilled.
eltax91 said:
Yes I have one. When not running, it's showing 12.3/4 volts, all the time, regardless of whether recently charged or left for a week.
When the car is running, it's showing 14+v, so the alternator is charging fine.
Leave it for more than a day or two though and it's not got any charge in it. not enough for the lights, or to start the car.
12.3-4 volts is discharged if its like that after charging then is goosed , get a new one When the car is running, it's showing 14+v, so the alternator is charging fine.
Leave it for more than a day or two though and it's not got any charge in it. not enough for the lights, or to start the car.
liner33 said:
eltax91 said:
Yes I have one. When not running, it's showing 12.3/4 volts, all the time, regardless of whether recently charged or left for a week.
When the car is running, it's showing 14+v, so the alternator is charging fine.
Leave it for more than a day or two though and it's not got any charge in it. not enough for the lights, or to start the car.
12.3-4 volts is discharged if its like that after charging then is goosed , get a new one When the car is running, it's showing 14+v, so the alternator is charging fine.
Leave it for more than a day or two though and it's not got any charge in it. not enough for the lights, or to start the car.
Rawhide said:
Does the dash cam have it's own batteries or was it running from the battery when it was recording ?
It has a very small battery that lasts a few minutes from losing power. I've wired it to an ignition fed fuse as I don't want it draining the battery, so when the ignition is off it has no power and shuts down immediately.To add the supercharger, it's necessary to change over the ECU for a MegaSquirt or similar. The specialist has fitted my MegaSquirt and mapped it etc. Wonder if that's causing a drain somehow?
eltax91 said:
liner33 said:
eltax91 said:
Yes I have one. When not running, it's showing 12.3/4 volts, all the time, regardless of whether recently charged or left for a week.
When the car is running, it's showing 14+v, so the alternator is charging fine.
Leave it for more than a day or two though and it's not got any charge in it. not enough for the lights, or to start the car.
12.3-4 volts is discharged if its like that after charging then is goosed , get a new one When the car is running, it's showing 14+v, so the alternator is charging fine.
Leave it for more than a day or two though and it's not got any charge in it. not enough for the lights, or to start the car.
If you put a load of the battery, say the headlights, and the voltage drops significantly then it IS borked.
But chances are something is draining the battery after the work you had done?
eltax91 said:
Yes I have one. When not running, it's showing 12.3/4 volts, all the time, regardless of whether recently charged or left for a week.
When the car is running, it's showing 14+v, so the alternator is charging fine.
Indeed it is.When the car is running, it's showing 14+v, so the alternator is charging fine.
eltax91 said:
Leave it for more than a day or two though and it's not got any charge in it. not enough for the lights, or to start the car.
Could be a knackered battery, could be a big draw, could be either.Disconnect the battery -ve. Set the multimeter to about a 2A range, and put it between the clamp and terminal. You'll get a spike of current as things like stereo/alarm reset themselves, then it'll settle down. Anything more than about 0.1A is your problem. To narrow down where it is, take each fuse out in turn, and measure current across the fuse terminals.
TooMany2cvs said:
Could be a knackered battery, could be a big draw, could be either.
Disconnect the battery -ve. Set the multimeter to about a 2A range, and put it between the clamp and terminal. You'll get a spike of current as things like stereo/alarm reset themselves, then it'll settle down. Anything more than about 0.1A is your problem. To narrow down where it is, take each fuse out in turn, and measure current across the fuse terminals.
Thank you for that very useful post - I've never seen it explained in such a simple clear and concise way to a point where even an "Electrickery Dullard" like myself can understand it completelyDisconnect the battery -ve. Set the multimeter to about a 2A range, and put it between the clamp and terminal. You'll get a spike of current as things like stereo/alarm reset themselves, then it'll settle down. Anything more than about 0.1A is your problem. To narrow down where it is, take each fuse out in turn, and measure current across the fuse terminals.
B'stard Child said:
TooMany2cvs said:
Could be a knackered battery, could be a big draw, could be either.
Disconnect the battery -ve. Set the multimeter to about a 2A range, and put it between the clamp and terminal. You'll get a spike of current as things like stereo/alarm reset themselves, then it'll settle down. Anything more than about 0.1A is your problem. To narrow down where it is, take each fuse out in turn, and measure current across the fuse terminals.
Thank you for that very useful post - I've never seen it explained in such a simple clear and concise way to a point where even an "Electrickery Dullard" like myself can understand it completelyDisconnect the battery -ve. Set the multimeter to about a 2A range, and put it between the clamp and terminal. You'll get a spike of current as things like stereo/alarm reset themselves, then it'll settle down. Anything more than about 0.1A is your problem. To narrow down where it is, take each fuse out in turn, and measure current across the fuse terminals.
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