Dynax s 50

[Riley26]

Is dynax so suitable to spray on the bumper cross member to stop or slow down corrosion? Or is dynax s50 only really suitable for cavities?

[Dbest92]

Bilt hamber dynax also do a 'UB' which is exactly the same but heavier duty, which should do. They also do a 'UC' which is the same but is clear. Having used their products I have to say I was very impressed

[Riley26]

Thanks so is the dynax s-50 not really suitable for doing the front cross member with? Is just I've got a spare can of it I could use on it

[Dbest92]

Tbh I think it would be ok, if you built it up in layers over a day or so it should be strong enough as it's a waxy substance. I think there'd only be a problem if it was used in say wheel arches or other high impact areas which take a lot of constant abuse from stones etc.

Either way it's better than nothing, or waxoyl!

[Riley26]

Yeah I may waxoyl it have some of that aswell, is waxoyl best reapplied ever year?

[Riley26]

Yeah I may waxoyl it have some of that aswell, is waxoyl best reapplied ever year?

[Gaspode]

Dynax S50 is way better than Waxoyl.

[Dbest92]

Gaspode said:

Dynax S50 is way better than Waxoyl.

Definitely. I didn't make it clear but dynax is infinitely better than waxoyl, metal justs rust away under waxoyl.

[Riley26]

So could I put dynax s50 on the front and back cross members then?

[Gaspode]

if your crossmemember is already rusty then you really ought to do something about the rust, Dynax will help protect it, but it's not a cure. Wirebrush the rust off, treat it with a converter like Hydrate 80, then a decent paint, then the Dynax. For best results you will reapply the Dynax every 6 months or so.

[Riley26]

Thanks for the advice what type of paint would you put on after the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 Rust Killer

[Gaspode]

Riley26 said:

Thanks for the advice what type of paint would you put on after the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 Rust Killer

I usually use smooth Hammerite.

[TooMany2cvs]

Gaspode said:

I usually use smooth Hammerite.

The waxoyl of paint... (Actually, I think waxoyl's better.)

[Gaspode]

TooMany2cvs said:

Gaspode said:

I usually use smooth Hammerite.

The waxoyl of paint... (Actually, I think waxoyl's better.)

Yes, it can be a bit brittle if not applied carefully. An alternative is good old chassis enamel.

[Dbest92]

When I last did undersealing I went a bit OTT, firstly I sanded/removed as much rust as I could, then applied bilt hamber 'deox gel'. This reacts with the rust, leaving you to wire brush then wipe the gel off to leave pretty clean metal. I then used rust buster fe123 rust converter to neutralise any remaining rust. Finally painted with rustbuster epoxy mastic chassis paint. Last 2 products purchased from www.rust.co.uk. Last I sprayed with dynax in case I'd missed anything. Way over the top I know, but as far as I can tell no rust has developed since, which isn't bad on a 1970s british car!

[Riley26]

Would there be any point using this http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repai... Object]

Before applying Hydrate 80?

[Dbest92]

I would, It can't hurt tbh, I used bilt hambers version when I did this http://www.bilthamber.com/deox-gel, basically you want the steel as clean and as rust free as possible before you paint and protect it. Could be said to be overkill, but I've never heard of anybody over rust proofing a car!

[Riley26]

Thanks, because isn't the hydrate 80 designed to neutralise any rust?

[Riley26]

Thanks, doesn't the hydrate 80 neutralise any rust anyway?