Mileage Correction Etiquette
Discussion
I've just (more or less) finished an engine conversion on my fun car. Its gone from a four cylinder to a six cylinder and as a result I've had to swap the clocks and ecu over from the donor car.
The situation is that my car is on 110k miles, the donor car is showing 188k miles. The engine itself has covered around 150k miles (changed under warranty)
It's not that relevant because I'll probably never sell it, it owes me nothing but what would you set the replacement clocks to?
The situation is that my car is on 110k miles, the donor car is showing 188k miles. The engine itself has covered around 150k miles (changed under warranty)
It's not that relevant because I'll probably never sell it, it owes me nothing but what would you set the replacement clocks to?
Leptons said:
I've just (more or less) finished an engine conversion on my fun car. Its gone from a four cylinder to a six cylinder and as a result I've had to swap the clocks and ecu over from the donor car.
The situation is that my car is on 110k miles, the donor car is showing 188k miles. The engine itself has covered around 150k miles (changed under warranty)
It's not that relevant because I'll probably never sell it, it owes me nothing but what would you set the replacement clocks to?
110k if you are changing to the donor car clocks due to engine changeThe situation is that my car is on 110k miles, the donor car is showing 188k miles. The engine itself has covered around 150k miles (changed under warranty)
It's not that relevant because I'll probably never sell it, it owes me nothing but what would you set the replacement clocks to?
I'm not sure I'd even bother.....
Pit Pony said:
When you go for the MOT, it will look strange if it goes from 110K to 180K in 1 year,
A few years back, I changed the clocks in my ol' Saab 900, since the old odometer hadn't been working for a few years. So - after three (computerised) MOTs with the exact same mileage (despite being geographically spread from Dorset to the M25), it suddenly lost ~70k. Nobody blinked an eye.I'm really not sure anybody's going to be buying this "fun car" on mileage, so what the clocks say is an irrelevance. The only time it matters is if you try to misrepresent it when you sell it.
It's not going to matter to anyone really, in this situation there's that much that's changed the miles on the engine vs car vs clocks arent really a factor.
If I look at the most recent MOT for my kit car, it shows the last 4 mileages as being 77901, 77500, 24509, 23878. It's not that I went out and did a s
t load of miles a few years ago, the clocks got changed because the rev counter stopped working, and I had a full rebuild of the engine, crank reground, block overbored, new rods, pistons, bearings, rings etc.
I can back that up in as much detail as someone wants to see if I ever sell it (and tbh, it's always going to be worth more to me than anyone would ever pay) but after everything else that's been done to it, the miles on the clock arent going to be a big thing to think about
If I look at the most recent MOT for my kit car, it shows the last 4 mileages as being 77901, 77500, 24509, 23878. It's not that I went out and did a s
t load of miles a few years ago, the clocks got changed because the rev counter stopped working, and I had a full rebuild of the engine, crank reground, block overbored, new rods, pistons, bearings, rings etc. I can back that up in as much detail as someone wants to see if I ever sell it (and tbh, it's always going to be worth more to me than anyone would ever pay) but after everything else that's been done to it, the miles on the clock arent going to be a big thing to think about
Edited by andy-xr on Friday 17th October 09:27
In reality I'm not sure I'd bother to change it myself.
If you ever come to sell it, having evidence for the all of the mileage numbers you mention would be useful, but I'm guessing it's not teh most material factor in the price of the car - it's an old fun thing with an updated engine, and I guess a buyer would be more interested in how well the engine transplant has been done than the actual exact mileage of different components?
You could always set it back to 0 now, and keep all of the old docs to prove mileage of the different bits.
If you ever come to sell it, having evidence for the all of the mileage numbers you mention would be useful, but I'm guessing it's not teh most material factor in the price of the car - it's an old fun thing with an updated engine, and I guess a buyer would be more interested in how well the engine transplant has been done than the actual exact mileage of different components?
You could always set it back to 0 now, and keep all of the old docs to prove mileage of the different bits.
xRIEx said:
Matttracker said:
In case your circumstances ever changed. It could be worth having at 110 as that's correct for the car.
But the engine has 180k miles (plus OP's future use) of wear on it.Obviously the method here is 110+150+180/3 = 146k miles.
If it is a hobby car like mine that probably wont change hands then it might not be a big issue. My mini has done 50k miles, the engine has done 4k miles and the clocks themselves came from a car that done 39k miles. So its all to cock.
mini1380cc said:
xRIEx said:
Matttracker said:
In case your circumstances ever changed. It could be worth having at 110 as that's correct for the car.
But the engine has 180k miles (plus OP's future use) of wear on it.Obviously the method here is 110+150+180/3 = 146k miles.
If it is a hobby car like mine that probably wont change hands then it might not be a big issue. My mini has done 50k miles, the engine has done 4k miles and the clocks themselves came from a car that done 39k miles. So its all to cock.
Personally I'd just keep the old clocks and all documentation, but then I'm a bit of a hoarder.
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