Cheap coolant from the high street?
Discussion
Soooo replaced the rad & engine temp sensor on my ZR, was going to do the thermostat but couldn't get enough access. Had 5 litres of coolant, max is 4.5. To bleed you need to watch a valve spurt it on the floor and I think I closed off too early because lack of coolant. Ran my car for 2 5 minute journeys and got no heat, when before changing this I did, so i'm confident it's an airlock. I need more coolant to bleed again so ordered some cheap online, but halfords seems the only logical place to get it quickly but it's expensive!
Any other suggestions? I've thought about using just water as it'll only be at most half a litre, but I don't want to hamper anything as it's got to be 50/50.
Any other suggestions? I've thought about using just water as it'll only be at most half a litre, but I don't want to hamper anything as it's got to be 50/50.
50/50 and importantly OAT coolant on those-Euro Car Parts will oblige at a reasonable cost. Cheap coolant probably won't be OAT.
I find getting rid of an airlock is helped on the K-Series by running the engine, cap off and squeezing the top & bottom rad hoses vigorously. You'll push the air round the circuit and out of the open cap.
I find getting rid of an airlock is helped on the K-Series by running the engine, cap off and squeezing the top & bottom rad hoses vigorously. You'll push the air round the circuit and out of the open cap.
itcaptainslow said:
50/50 and importantly OAT coolant on those-Euro Car Parts will oblige at a reasonable cost. Cheap coolant probably won't be OAT.
I find getting rid of an airlock is helped on the K-Series by running the engine, cap off and squeezing the top & bottom rad hoses vigorously. You'll push the air round the circuit and out of the open cap.
Been following the rover bulletin on it. Opening the bleed valve should be sufficient. Weird though that the land rover and mgf had another on the heater matrixI find getting rid of an airlock is helped on the K-Series by running the engine, cap off and squeezing the top & bottom rad hoses vigorously. You'll push the air round the circuit and out of the open cap.
Taz1383 said:
itcaptainslow said:
50/50 and importantly OAT coolant on those-Euro Car Parts will oblige at a reasonable cost. Cheap coolant probably won't be OAT.
I find getting rid of an airlock is helped on the K-Series by running the engine, cap off and squeezing the top & bottom rad hoses vigorously. You'll push the air round the circuit and out of the open cap.
Been following the rover bulletin on it. Opening the bleed valve should be sufficient. Weird though that the land rover and mgf had another on the heater matrixI find getting rid of an airlock is helped on the K-Series by running the engine, cap off and squeezing the top & bottom rad hoses vigorously. You'll push the air round the circuit and out of the open cap.
The official MG Rover method of filling the K-Series cooling system is to use a vacuum bleed device.
MGF has three bleed points-one on the rail above the gearbox (as per all K-Series), one on the heater matrix and one on the radiator at the top. They're necessary thanks to the long cooling pipes that run underneath the car-it's a big system (something like 8-9 litres capacity).
itcaptainslow said:
50/50 and importantly OAT coolant on those-Euro Car Parts will oblige at a reasonable cost. Cheap coolant probably won't be OAT.
I find getting rid of an airlock is helped on the K-Series by running the engine, cap off and squeezing the top & bottom rad hoses vigorously. You'll push the air round the circuit and out of the open cap.
This,back when I used to drive unreliable old bangers, used to work well.nowadays I drive old bangers,its just that they are more reliableI find getting rid of an airlock is helped on the K-Series by running the engine, cap off and squeezing the top & bottom rad hoses vigorously. You'll push the air round the circuit and out of the open cap.
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