Any advice would be appreciated
Discussion
Hello everyone,
I'm in a right pickle and don't know what to do- was hoping some experienced heads could give me some advice.
My 12 year old b class Mercedes needs new parts, it is at the dealers, doesn't have warranty or anything like that. They can't get all the parts and driving it now is risky, I only drove it there because I live nearby but a lot of lights are lit up on the dash.
I know nothing much about cars I am just plain dumb, I've asked for a valuation,waiting to hear back, that's if they want to take it. Please can someone give me some advice, what is usually done in this situation?
I don't know how to proceed and also look for a new car. Any advice would be appreciated. Why would they take it I suppose, how do I get it off their car park, what do I do with it? I'm sorry.
Thanks.
I'm in a right pickle and don't know what to do- was hoping some experienced heads could give me some advice.
My 12 year old b class Mercedes needs new parts, it is at the dealers, doesn't have warranty or anything like that. They can't get all the parts and driving it now is risky, I only drove it there because I live nearby but a lot of lights are lit up on the dash.
I know nothing much about cars I am just plain dumb, I've asked for a valuation,waiting to hear back, that's if they want to take it. Please can someone give me some advice, what is usually done in this situation?
I don't know how to proceed and also look for a new car. Any advice would be appreciated. Why would they take it I suppose, how do I get it off their car park, what do I do with it? I'm sorry.
Thanks.
The dealer will make an offer, and will send it off to auction or have a trader who'll take non-runners off them. They will look at the figures overall, and basically make you an offer for the car which amounts to what they can recover through selling it and a discount on the new one.
Have they given an indication yet of what is wrong with it, and an estimate to fix it?
Your options are
1. Look online for 'we buy cars in any condition' sorts of traders and get an offer so you know where you are.
2. Get it back from the dealer and advertise the car for sale as a non-runner, at a discount, describing what work is likely needed.
3. Get the repairs done... if its at a main mercedes dealer then I imagine a good local independent garage will be able to do it a lot cheaper. Then either keep running it, or sell privately. Consider carefully whether you will recover what extra you spend on it vs selling it as is.
Have they given an indication yet of what is wrong with it, and an estimate to fix it?
Your options are
1. Look online for 'we buy cars in any condition' sorts of traders and get an offer so you know where you are.
2. Get it back from the dealer and advertise the car for sale as a non-runner, at a discount, describing what work is likely needed.
3. Get the repairs done... if its at a main mercedes dealer then I imagine a good local independent garage will be able to do it a lot cheaper. Then either keep running it, or sell privately. Consider carefully whether you will recover what extra you spend on it vs selling it as is.
If you value your car and want to keep it... get it out from Mercedes main dealer and to an independent garage who can diagnose it. It could be as simple as a flat battery or failed alternator.
Mercedes are not motivated to help you. They will either charge more than the car is worth to fix it or lowball you on on the price.
Mercedes are not motivated to help you. They will either charge more than the car is worth to fix it or lowball you on on the price.
Also - if transport is a problem, you can use a site like https://www.shiply.com/ to get it moved very easily.
Hello everyone,
Many thanks to everyone whose taken an interest. It's at a Mercedes dealership, because a lot of lights came up on the dash I thought that would be best -for someone like me it made sense at the time but I know better now.
The guy has yet to get back to me about any offers.
Can anyone advise how I would get it home and then to an independent garage, it's pulling to the right slightly and steering is heaving. Have been told new rpm sensor's are needed but they can only get one.
Should I contact tow company?
Thank you.
Many thanks to everyone whose taken an interest. It's at a Mercedes dealership, because a lot of lights came up on the dash I thought that would be best -for someone like me it made sense at the time but I know better now.
The guy has yet to get back to me about any offers.
Can anyone advise how I would get it home and then to an independent garage, it's pulling to the right slightly and steering is heaving. Have been told new rpm sensor's are needed but they can only get one.
Should I contact tow company?
Thank you.
When you say risky to drive, is it because it might breakdown?
As others have said, at 12 years old a main dealer is not the best place to get it repaired, suggest you get it removed from them to a good independent.
Also get a we buy any car quote based on your reg plate as the dealer will probably suggest you pay them to take it away.
As others have said, at 12 years old a main dealer is not the best place to get it repaired, suggest you get it removed from them to a good independent.
Also get a we buy any car quote based on your reg plate as the dealer will probably suggest you pay them to take it away.
Get the part number for the rpm sensors and look for them yourself. They’re probably on back order from the factory with no date known for when they will be available. They won’t look for them beyond their own group of garages or from Germany. Another main dealer may have them in stock and would be willing to post them out. They may also be available on eBay or somewhere similar
If you have breakdown cover that may cover you for getting the vehicle recovered back to your home as well, if MB have told you the vehicle isn't safe to drive. That would then alleviate any time pressure on what to do with the car whilst figuring out your next move.
MB main dealership servicing and repair costs are some of the highest out there amongst mainstream car makers. On anything 10+ years old, especially if you've gone into MB and explained you don't know anything about cars, what the problem is or how much it's likely to cost to fix, they are probably eyeing you up like a tasty meal and thinking of selling you a new car and offering to dispose of your current one (rather than give you anything for it) as part of the deal. And/or, quoting you a figure with too many zeros after it to do the repair, in the hope you'll bin your B-class and buy something new from them.
MB main dealership servicing and repair costs are some of the highest out there amongst mainstream car makers. On anything 10+ years old, especially if you've gone into MB and explained you don't know anything about cars, what the problem is or how much it's likely to cost to fix, they are probably eyeing you up like a tasty meal and thinking of selling you a new car and offering to dispose of your current one (rather than give you anything for it) as part of the deal. And/or, quoting you a figure with too many zeros after it to do the repair, in the hope you'll bin your B-class and buy something new from them.
tomsugden said:
Why don't you find an indi, explain your predicament and ask if they can arrange collection.
Where abouts are you in the country?
This is sound advice. There are several Mercedes independents around, in fact I use one, but can’t advertise on here. Usually a Merc technician, factory trained, etc gets fed up with his pay when he sees what customers are paying the main dealer. Typical pattern would be that they do ‘ a bit on the side’ and then set up their own business. Ironically main dealers sometimes use this small business for diagnosis!Where abouts are you in the country?
Just noticed the post below: don’t let anyone offer you a derisory £100. That happened to a friend with admittedly, a Peugeot 306 but it had full main dealer history. Then it came to the point when it needed some remedial work, but I drove it just before that and it seemed fine.
Edited by Lester H on Thursday 5th September 16:58
If you want to keep the car
Spend this evening googling "Mercedes specialist near me", prepare to be a little disappointed as they typically only really have an interest in the higher end models of the brand.
Then google "MOT test centres near me" you'll get a list of decent garages around you and likely one will have the capacity to do services and repairs, give them a call explain the situation and see how they can help. If it's close enough... your car is road legal and it'll largely protect itself from grenading, I'd limp it there at a non rush hour time. If you don't feel happy ask the garage for any recovery recommendations.
Personally I like the small to midsize chains, there is one round by me called MOTEST they have 20 odd locations and haven't let me down yet seem reasonable and honest have fixed a couple of breakdowns for me.
If you want a change
I hate to say it, but there probably isn't much money in the car so I'd get a valuation done by webuyanycar.com and then do a bit of shopping through a dealer or carwow/drive the deal and see what you get as a trade in to new/nearly new. This of course only works with new/nearly new, there is of course lease or buying an older 2nd hand car and then you can get in to sensible brands etc, long term ownership with balance of generous warranties etc.
Anyway whatever works for you, but these would be my approaches.
Spend this evening googling "Mercedes specialist near me", prepare to be a little disappointed as they typically only really have an interest in the higher end models of the brand.
Then google "MOT test centres near me" you'll get a list of decent garages around you and likely one will have the capacity to do services and repairs, give them a call explain the situation and see how they can help. If it's close enough... your car is road legal and it'll largely protect itself from grenading, I'd limp it there at a non rush hour time. If you don't feel happy ask the garage for any recovery recommendations.
Personally I like the small to midsize chains, there is one round by me called MOTEST they have 20 odd locations and haven't let me down yet seem reasonable and honest have fixed a couple of breakdowns for me.
If you want a change
I hate to say it, but there probably isn't much money in the car so I'd get a valuation done by webuyanycar.com and then do a bit of shopping through a dealer or carwow/drive the deal and see what you get as a trade in to new/nearly new. This of course only works with new/nearly new, there is of course lease or buying an older 2nd hand car and then you can get in to sensible brands etc, long term ownership with balance of generous warranties etc.
Anyway whatever works for you, but these would be my approaches.
Hello everyone,
Thank you to everyone whose posted, I feel bit better prepared now.
They said pop in and have a chat with their valuation guy, I think I may just go tomorrow before work just to see what they say.
Certainly made me think again about own lack of knowledge and not being very clued up,thought I was doing the right thing but there are better options for someone like me.
There is no substitute for experience in my opinion and I thank everyone again for being so very generous in sharing their knowledge and expertise and wisdom.
Thank you to everyone whose posted, I feel bit better prepared now.
They said pop in and have a chat with their valuation guy, I think I may just go tomorrow before work just to see what they say.
Certainly made me think again about own lack of knowledge and not being very clued up,thought I was doing the right thing but there are better options for someone like me.
There is no substitute for experience in my opinion and I thank everyone again for being so very generous in sharing their knowledge and expertise and wisdom.
OFF TOPIC
A simple example of the main dealer versus independent specialist experience was the exhaust on my wife's SLK. Our MB main dealer had serviced the car for 16 years. I rang to book it in for service and was greeted with, "Do we know this car?" It wasn't a good sign, but despite this I proceeded with the service. It came back with a video of a technician underneath it walking about saying, "This is rusty needs replacing, that's rusty needs replacing..." Numerous things. They had serviced and maintained the car all that time, how did it get in that state? Of particular concern to the technician was the exhaust - "It's rusty and needs replacing."
At a different garage, it passed its MoT. Next service I took it to a local independent specialist. I mentioned the exhaust. "It's fine. They last for years. It just needs new brackets and clamps." I knew the exhausts last because it's the original one. I wish I had gone to the independent years ago. It would have saved me a lot of money.
Find a local independent with a good reputation and go there.
A simple example of the main dealer versus independent specialist experience was the exhaust on my wife's SLK. Our MB main dealer had serviced the car for 16 years. I rang to book it in for service and was greeted with, "Do we know this car?" It wasn't a good sign, but despite this I proceeded with the service. It came back with a video of a technician underneath it walking about saying, "This is rusty needs replacing, that's rusty needs replacing..." Numerous things. They had serviced and maintained the car all that time, how did it get in that state? Of particular concern to the technician was the exhaust - "It's rusty and needs replacing."
At a different garage, it passed its MoT. Next service I took it to a local independent specialist. I mentioned the exhaust. "It's fine. They last for years. It just needs new brackets and clamps." I knew the exhausts last because it's the original one. I wish I had gone to the independent years ago. It would have saved me a lot of money.
Find a local independent with a good reputation and go there.
You might be getting over-concerned about this.
The term RPM sensor is most likely what is usually referred to as an ABS speed/wheel sensor. They're not (that!) expensive on the B-class, and are a fairly common problem. A failed front one will trigger all sorts of warning lights. The ABS sensor affects the esp (electronic stability programme), traction control and it can affect the electric power steering (ecu doesn't know how fast the car is going), ABS warning light will show, as most likely will the engine management light (lack of speed input annoys the EU-stipulated emissions system). Can be intermittent.
A low battery can also cause similar problems as the cars are very sensitive to battery voltage. The only sure way of knowing (assuming you're not confident about checking the sensors yourself) is to have it checked on Mercedes's STAR diagnostics, either at dealer or an independent Merc specialist (probably cheaper).
Various messages might be displayed on the dash, have you seen any , ie 'abs inoperative'. Orange / yellow warning lights are a warning, red usually mean 'danger', ie no brake fluid etc..
See exactly what the problem is but don't be pushed by a dealer: a friend had an owned-from-new MB for approx 8-years, always serviced/mot'd by the supplying main dealer, had it serviced and they found 'loads of serious problems', quoted a ridiculous amout to fix it and basically said it was not worth it. Miraculously, they managed to find her a suitable new car in stock and the old one was p/exchanged. The original car was possibly 'sold on' / traded out (I don't know) but it was later back on the road locally. I've no idea how bad it was but a cynic might think it wasn't as bad as at first thought. Or it was much cheaper to repair elsewhere.
The term RPM sensor is most likely what is usually referred to as an ABS speed/wheel sensor. They're not (that!) expensive on the B-class, and are a fairly common problem. A failed front one will trigger all sorts of warning lights. The ABS sensor affects the esp (electronic stability programme), traction control and it can affect the electric power steering (ecu doesn't know how fast the car is going), ABS warning light will show, as most likely will the engine management light (lack of speed input annoys the EU-stipulated emissions system). Can be intermittent.
A low battery can also cause similar problems as the cars are very sensitive to battery voltage. The only sure way of knowing (assuming you're not confident about checking the sensors yourself) is to have it checked on Mercedes's STAR diagnostics, either at dealer or an independent Merc specialist (probably cheaper).
Various messages might be displayed on the dash, have you seen any , ie 'abs inoperative'. Orange / yellow warning lights are a warning, red usually mean 'danger', ie no brake fluid etc..
See exactly what the problem is but don't be pushed by a dealer: a friend had an owned-from-new MB for approx 8-years, always serviced/mot'd by the supplying main dealer, had it serviced and they found 'loads of serious problems', quoted a ridiculous amout to fix it and basically said it was not worth it. Miraculously, they managed to find her a suitable new car in stock and the old one was p/exchanged. The original car was possibly 'sold on' / traded out (I don't know) but it was later back on the road locally. I've no idea how bad it was but a cynic might think it wasn't as bad as at first thought. Or it was much cheaper to repair elsewhere.
Monkeylegend said:
Might just need a new battery.
My Merc used to throw up warning lights etc as a result of an ageing battery and a few days without use.
I have had 3 different cars with all the warning lights going full psycho and were then as good as gold as soon as a new battery was fitted.My Merc used to throw up warning lights etc as a result of an ageing battery and a few days without use.
Note that the battery itself didn't show any adverse symptoms.
Thinking about it as I write this it is possible that all the car needed was a full reset by disconnecting a perfectly good battery.
Turn it off and turn it on.
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff