TOYOTA MR2 GT T-Bar Potential buy - what to look for?

[RacingPete]

I am going to look round a 1990 Toyota MR2 GT (Manual/Petrol) this evening that sounds very nice for the money. It has had 2 previous owners and a full service history but my knowledge on these cars is very limited, so I am doing some research.

Does anyone have experience with them and what to look out for with the car as I don't want to spend too much doing it up after buying?

The car has done 75,000 miles so wondering what cam belts, clutch life, wheel bearings etc are like and due for replace?

Any common areas of rust to look out for, eg bottom of A-Pillars etc?

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers, RP

[Garlick]

Any advice appreciated here chaps, the PH SOTW project needs to be revived and this could be the car to do it

[RobCrezz]

Have a search on imoc.co.uk.

If its a UK non turbo then they are pretty reliable. Make sure the engine is the 3SGE and not the lame 3sFE (they did put this engine in some MR2s with only 120bhp).

Check the usual bits, oil cap for mayo, check for any knocks on the suspension. Check the T-bar for leaks (they all do eventually), as you may be able to get money off - its easyly fixed though with some silicon sealant, theres a guide on IMOC.

[Tony*T3]

RacingPete said:

I am going to look round a 1990 Toyota MR2 GT (Manual/Petrol) this evening that sounds very nice for the money. It has had 2 previous owners and a full service history but my knowledge on these cars is very limited, so I am doing some research.

Does anyone have experience with them and what to look out for with the car as I don't want to spend too much doing it up after buying?

The car has done 75,000 miles so wondering what cam belts, clutch life, wheel bearings etc are like and due for replace?

Any common areas of rust to look out for, eg bottom of A-Pillars etc?

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers, RP

yeah, make sure its not the one I wrapped around a tree. Was repaired.

[Steamer]

RobCrezz said:

If its a UK non turbo then they are pretty reliable.

Even the turbos are bombproof - I'd hold on to your money until youve tried a turbo import, I had one for 4 or 5 years and it was GREAT! No problems at all - it just ate rear tires and drank lots of petrol!!

But as Rob said - check for a leaky T bar if it has one... mine leaked... right down my neck every morning So wet or moldy seatbelts & carpets at the back end.

Gearbox & clutch depending on who has owned it before.

But to be honest they really are well built cars!

ETA: I think cambelts are every 60K
My turbo was on the original clutch right upto 80K when I sold it
I did my oil at every 6K - but for a non turbo just good oil every 12 - 16K
Wheel bearings / rack / boots / brakes were no problem at all - apart from the handbrake used to seize on

Oh - and it shouldnt have any rust anywhere (maybe the tops of the rear wheel arches) - red plastics do go off colour a bit though

Edited by Steamer on Wednesday 22 April 15:04

[RobCrezz]

Steamer said:

RobCrezz said:

If its a UK non turbo then they are pretty reliable.

Even the turbos are bombproof - I'd hold on to your money until youve tried a turbo import, I had one for 4 or 5 years and it was GREAT! No problems at all - it just ate rear tires and drank lots of petrol!!

But as Rob said - check for a leaky T bar if it has one... mine leaked... right down my neck every morning So wet or moldy seatbelts & carpets at the back end.

Gearbox & clutch depending on who has owned it before.

But to be honest they really are well built cars!

Never said the turbos were unreliable (mine has been great- touch wood), but they are more prone due to people turning the boost up too high.

[Garlick]

Great stuff guys, appreciated.

PH goes to look at a car for SOTW during daylight hours on a dry day? It's a miracle....we might even buy something decent

[Otto]

The Cambelt SHOULD have been done at 60,000 miles if I'm remembering correctly.

Wheel bearings and clutch shouldn't be giving you problems at that mileage.

They really don't tend to rust much as they have a galvanised chassis, but look for any damage that may have broken through the protection, and caused a rust area.

Check for any knocking during a drive which could be suspension topmounts / droplinks.

Is it a turbo?

[Garlick]

Otto said:

Is it a turbo?

No, it's not a turbo.

[RacingPete]

Otto said:

Is it a turbo?

Nope, just the plain 2.0-litre I am afraid, my friend had a turbo import which was faster than my Pordrived Impreza (just shame it was duck poo green). Would love to get the turbo but thinking SOTW my get a better response from a non-turbo (plus our kitty isn't too large).

Good news about the bearings and will check on engine and cam belt servicing to make sure all correct.

[Muzzer]

I had mine for 3 years and, apart from some dodgy modifications by the idiot Japanese bloke who owned it before me, it didn't miss a beat.

Check the clutch as it's a bh to replace

Check the cambelt for the same reason

Check plastics, etc as these fade.

Make sure everything works. Usual stuff.

Great cars. Mine was a turbo but I'd have even an N/A one as a shed tomorrow..

[Otto]

Garlick said:

Otto said:

Is it a turbo?

No, it's not a turbo.

BOOOOO

Check for the right size tyres - it can upset the handling if too large aftermarket wheels have been put on.

[RacingPete]

Otto said:

Check for the right size tyres - it can upset the handling if too large aftermarket wheels have been put on.

Will do... hoping this will be a good one as with the nice sunny weather the T-Bar roof will be handy.

[George B]

Garlick said:

we might even buy something decent

hold your horses Paul. don't go getting their hopes up ;-)

[Gizmo!]

Now if you really want a shed (or some parts), mine's for sale...

I'd make sure you let it sit and idle for a while to check it doesn't overheat; mine had an airlock in the coolant (complicated system of course, being mid-engined. You have to bleed at both ends).

Also mine had a knackered clutch - try to accelerate in a high gear (but you knew that of course).

And they're very tyre-sensitive - mine was massively improved when I put some Vredestein Sportracs on it.

A 1990 will be a Rev 1 - high ride height, and 15ins wheels as standard, no front fogs, and the one that got the reputation for being twitchy - later ones are much better.

[Otto]

Also on the cooling system - check the condition of the coolant. It should have the purple / redish coloured stuff in, and it should be nice and clear. The aluminium heads are a little sensitive to coolant quality.

[anonymous-user]

I've got a Rev3 UK N/A and its great

Leaky T-bar is a bh, and you'll do well to find one that doesn't leak to be honest, comes with the territory.

Mine has eaten a clutch already (its on 67k), and I've put 2 new sets of rears on in under 18 months.

That said, I do love it! All the months of a leaky roof are forgotten after the first mile of country road on our first moderately warm day!

[Wadeski]

You can get a rev1 turbo for a grand...such a better shed project than a non-turbo! sure the rev3s have a better engine, but rev1s are the lightest and pointiest of the lot, pointy enough to scare the sh!t out of a few journalists

get a tubby!!!

Edited by Wadeski on Wednesday 22 April 15:53

[Garlick]

We don't have a grand

[Wadeski]

how much you got?

its a shame Darlings two grand offer will probably take a lot of older MR2s off the road.