9mm Nuts

[andygo]

Anyone know if it possible to buy 9mm metric nylocks or K nuts.

I know its a weird size, but I need them to rethread a worn stud on the chassis of our racecar. Its one of four that secures the bellhousing/rear end to the chassis. Current size is M10, so a size down will work.

[lewis1]

Buy a new stud.

[Nobby Diesel]

Why not go to M8, standard size.
Failing that, I know Shimano do a M9 for rear hubs on bikes. Try your local bike shop.

[T89 Callan]

Would you be better off using a more common imperial size that is slightly smaller?

[NightDriver]

I'd go to M8. By only going to M9 you won't have cleared the M10 thread completely (8.1mm core dia.) . M10 thread is 1.5 pitch and M9 is 1.25 pitch so you'll end up with a very nasty looking stud! Going down to M8 should do the trick. Theres not really any imperial sizes you can go to that will be any better.

Or, as mentioned, can you not get new studs!?

Edited by NightDriver on Saturday 1st August 18:20

[andygo]

The stud is a complicated thing really.

Its welded onto the chassis so its a bit of a winter job really to sort. Just need a workaround as I'm out at Oulton Park in a couple of weeks...

Here's a piccy of one in a bit better nick.

[mr.man]

I would try a 3/8" UNF(9.5mm) nylock first so as to keep as much metal there as possible.You will probably have to run a die down it first as the pitch will be different. So long as it pulls up tight you should be OK for a while.

[Snake the Sniper]

How many races do you have left this season? If it's more than a couple, then I'd bite the bullet and chop it out and weld in a new boss and stud. It might be worth changing them from weld in studs to a threaded boss and then you can change the studs at will.
For now though, I'd go down to M8, as that should give you the best chance of getting a full thread.

[lewis1]

thats all of an hours work to cut off and weld a new one on. Dont bodge something that could end your life if it breaks.

[HRG.]

Make up a threaded sleeve?

[NightDriver]

To avoid replacing the studs out I would, personally, look at doing the following.

Chop the studs off so that the only bit left on the chassis is the constant diameter piece. Drill and tap an M10 thread into this piece of bar. Then, with the bit that of stud you've cut off, cut the threaded bit off from the tapered bit. Machine a 10.5mm hole up the inside of the tapered bit. Then you can use an M10 bolt to replace the bit of knackered studding. By using the bolt you will need to alter the tightening torque accordingly (will need to be done to a higher torque).

However, I reckon it wouldn't be much more work to just get some new studs made up and get them welded in.