Renault Clio 172/182 as a daily
Discussion
I'm going to have a look at a few tomorrow and hopefully test drive one to decided if I even one want, they do sound great fun though its just the whole french car reputation that is making me think twice.
I'm looking at these for around £3k which can get you one with around 50k-80k miles that seem looked after, what are these like to use on a daily basis?
I do around 15k miles a year are they reliable to use everyday?
What are they like on motorways and for longer journeys?
What kind of economy to they return, do they need super unleaded?
Cheers.
I'm looking at these for around £3k which can get you one with around 50k-80k miles that seem looked after, what are these like to use on a daily basis?
I do around 15k miles a year are they reliable to use everyday?
What are they like on motorways and for longer journeys?
What kind of economy to they return, do they need super unleaded?
Cheers.
I did 6k a year in my over A roads and every 2 weeks a 140 mile motorway journey last year. I'm not used to comfy cars as my previous was just a Fiesta, it's no worse than this for comfort though. Economy wise I averaged over 40mpg on a run at 70-80 and about 37mpg daily through town and A roads. It doesn't need super but it is recommended, personal choice I think.
I have a 172 Cup with no ABS, TC or aircon and frankly, no aircon is a b
h in the summer, the rest is fine you just have to be careful. As it also has some heatshiedling removed (I believe) it does get hot in there when you're on the motorway. If you get a normal 172 or 182 it's a great daily car imo.
Just do it
ETA: The french car stigma I have found to be unfounded. I had the speedo sensor go (£20 part and fitted myself) and the TDC sensor needed a clean as the car was not starting first time. This job was doable with a socket set and some patience. Other than that it has been faultless and it's done 80k.
For motorways I feel the cars could have done with a 6th gear as it does rev quite high if you push it to 90 leptons. It gets loud and the economy drops off. Still a good drive on the motorway though and I have condifidence in it at speed.
I have a 172 Cup with no ABS, TC or aircon and frankly, no aircon is a b
h in the summer, the rest is fine you just have to be careful. As it also has some heatshiedling removed (I believe) it does get hot in there when you're on the motorway. If you get a normal 172 or 182 it's a great daily car imo.Just do it
ETA: The french car stigma I have found to be unfounded. I had the speedo sensor go (£20 part and fitted myself) and the TDC sensor needed a clean as the car was not starting first time. This job was doable with a socket set and some patience. Other than that it has been faultless and it's done 80k.
For motorways I feel the cars could have done with a 6th gear as it does rev quite high if you push it to 90 leptons. It gets loud and the economy drops off. Still a good drive on the motorway though and I have condifidence in it at speed.
Edited by MSTRBKR on Monday 3rd January 19:13
I'm going to have a look at a few tomorrow and hopefully test drive one to decided if I even one want, they do sound great fun though its just the whole french car reputation that is making me think twice.
I'm looking at these for around £3k which can get you one with around 50k-80k miles that seem looked after, what are these like to use on a daily basis?
I do around 15k miles a year are they reliable to use everyday? Mine was solid over 3years/35k, cambelt was a bh at £500 at a specialists, so make sure its done as well as the aux belt as this can snap taking the cambelt with it
What are they like on motorways and for longer journeys? A bit buzzy due to short gearing but soon forgiven once off the boring roads.
What kind of economy to they return, do they need super unleaded? Don't know if they really need it but I used it. 40mpg on long runs taking it easy, 20-25 commute if memory serves
Cheers.
A good fun little car, fantastic to chuck around bendy roads, I had no issues apart from interior trim rattles, the odd bit falling off etc but nothing major.
http://www.cliosport.net/ for more info
I'm looking at these for around £3k which can get you one with around 50k-80k miles that seem looked after, what are these like to use on a daily basis?
I do around 15k miles a year are they reliable to use everyday? Mine was solid over 3years/35k, cambelt was a b
h at £500 at a specialists, so make sure its done as well as the aux belt as this can snap taking the cambelt with itWhat are they like on motorways and for longer journeys? A bit buzzy due to short gearing but soon forgiven once off the boring roads.
What kind of economy to they return, do they need super unleaded? Don't know if they really need it but I used it. 40mpg on long runs taking it easy, 20-25 commute if memory serves
Cheers.
A good fun little car, fantastic to chuck around bendy roads, I had no issues apart from interior trim rattles, the odd bit falling off etc but nothing major.
http://www.cliosport.net/ for more info
Edited by JackDaniels on Monday 3rd January 19:15
i run my 172 as a daily which is about 80% fast A road then 20% congested city. it had 81k on it when i got it in April and now has almost 104k and in that time the only problem i've had was the exhaust falling off but it had just had belts, engine mounts and a bunch of other stuff done. it has returned an average of 40mpg which i'm impressed with. my main criticisms are that it constantly buzzes and rattles and that the gearing is a bit short in fifth so if doing 80mph its at about 4k rpm and makes a bit of a racket oh and the driving position is a bit weird as you seem to sit on it rather than in it
overall though i'm pretty happy with it and will probably keep it until it falls to bits and i might yet strip it out and use it for track days
overall though i'm pretty happy with it and will probably keep it until it falls to bits and i might yet strip it out and use it for track days
MSTRBKR said:
I did 6k a year in my over A roads and every 2 weeks a 140 mile motorway journey last year. I'm not used to comfy cars as my previous was just a Fiesta, it's no worse than this for comfort though. Economy wise I averaged over 40mpg on a run at 70-80 and about 37mpg daily through town and A roads. It doesn't need super but it is recommended, personal choice I think.
I have a 172 Cup with no ABS, TC or aircon and frankly, no aircon is a bh in the summer, the rest is fine you just have to be careful. As it also has some heatshiedling removed (I believe) it does get hot in there when you're on the motorway. If you get a normal 172 or 182 it's a great daily car imo.
Just do it
Its sound rather than heat insulation that is ommitted from the Cup IIRC. Never noticed it getting particularly hot except when the sun was blazing as you say! Refined enough for me on the motorway.I have a 172 Cup with no ABS, TC or aircon and frankly, no aircon is a b
h in the summer, the rest is fine you just have to be careful. As it also has some heatshiedling removed (I believe) it does get hot in there when you're on the motorway. If you get a normal 172 or 182 it's a great daily car imo.Just do it
I used to do around 12.5k a year in mine. Daily drive was only a couple of miles to the station though! Only thing which was a bit of a pain was the heavy clutch when sat in traffic. Gives your ankle a bit of a workout.
The car never let me down in 3yrs in terms of basic reliabilty. Bought on 31k sold on 72k (ish).
I had one loved every minute of it
I was an unfortunate one suffering an early life cambelt failure due to the plastic pulley however i was persistent put it back on the road and used it daily. When it was fixed i put uprated cams in it and it really was an impressive little car and fun to drive with all the creature comforts too. I used to commute between Colchester and Ipswich daily brought it with 21k sold it with 38k about a year and a bit later. Cheap and fun to drive insurance can be a bit of a pain with these as their known to be crashed by the boy racer types.
You should be able to get a 182 within your budget easily.
Common Faults - Hazard Light Switch / Cambelt / Leaky Headlight Washer Jets / TDC Sensor (Located on the Gearbox)
Cold Start Problems
In time the coolant temperature sensor corrodes inside the cylinder head. This will interfere with the resistance and signal which will make the ECU think the water temperature is higher than it actually is. As such no enrichment of the mixture takes place.
Solution
Fitting a new temperature sender should rectify this fault.
Symptoms of a Faulty Top Dead Centre Sensor
The Top Dead Centre (TDC) sensor tells the Engine Control Unit (ECU) where top dead centre is on the engine.
Symptoms
1) Engine cranks but won’t start
2) Engine begins to idle roughly
3) Engine won't kick over when it is cranked
4) Engine fails to start after a hot run, i.e. won’t start until cooler
Solution
The sensor is located on the top of the bell housing. It is a small black cylinder with a little metal point on the end and has a banana shaped metal bracket with the sensor attached.
Remove sensor and wipe with some contact cleaner to see if this rectifies the fault. If not a replacement is required (approximately £17).
Low Idle Speed, High Idle Speed or Stalling at Junctions
The culprit will probably be the Idle Control Valve (ICV) which is located on the top of the inlet manifold. The ICV acts as a gate allowing varying amounts of air into the engine. However they are known to stick. Then they either let too much air into the engine, possibly causing high revs, or not enough starving it of air and causing the engine to almost or actually cut out.
Solution
Remove the wiring connector and three bolts that hold the ICV in place. Liberally spray it with carb cleaner using a small brush to remove any deposits. A new O-ring will be required for reinstallation.
Misfires & Hesitation
It is probable that one or more of the coils has started to fail. It is no good just replacing the failed one(s) as this can cause a knock on effect with the good coils and then the process will start again.
Solution
Unfortunately the only certain way to rectify this is to purchase four new coils.
Engine Revs Not Exceeding 4000rpm
Solution
Try cleaning the M*** Air Flow (MAF) sensor. This is located within the air ducting just before the air filter. Undo the electrical connector and withdraw the MAF sensor. Clean with carb cleaner then brush softly. It is important to check all vacuum pipes for signs of splitting or perishing.
Intermittent, Delayed Starting or Clicking Sound
These symptoms will be caused by faulty or badly corroded terminals on the starter motor or solenoid. In a worst case scenario the motor itself may have failed.
Solution
Remove the electrical connectors and clean them with a br*** wire brush removing any corrosion present. Apply something like Vaseline and refit. If this fails, remove starter motor and replace.
Air Bag and Service Light Illuminated
Solution
Under each of the front seats in the area of the seatbelt pretensioners there will be a block connector. With the ignition turned off remove both and refit them firmly as they have a tendency to come loose. if the light is still on, remove again and spray with contact cleaner. Finally tape the conectors together to hold the two halves in place.
Make sure the ignition has been switch off for at least 10 minutes before you attempts the procedure, to be extra safe the SRS fuse can be removed if you wish.
Water Dripping from Interior Light or Remote Receiver
The problem will be the aerial base seal which can lift due to wind pressure on the whip. This allows water ingress when it is raining.
Solution
Remove the lighting console and remote receiver to gain better access to the aerial base. Undo the nut at the base allowing removal of the aerial. Clean and dry the area then apply waterproof silicone sealant liberally. Refit. The car should now be watertight.
Resynchronising an Infrared (IR) Key Fob
Press and hold the central locking button until doors lock and unlock. The red light will come on. Then point the key fob button at the roof receiver and press numerous times. The doors should lock. Now try and see if the car unlocks by pushing the button again. This may also resynchronise the signal to the immobiliser but cannot be guaranteed.
Resynchronising a Radio Frequency (RF) Key Fob
Turn the ignition off. Press and hold the central locking switch; it does not matter which side. Keep holding until the doors are heard to double lock. It is necessary to hold the central locking button down until the light on the dash stops flashing and stays on fully. Then whilst holding it down press the button on the remote. Finally release the central locking button and press the fob to check the central locking operation.
This procedure will not resynchronise the immobiliser.
I was an unfortunate one suffering an early life cambelt failure due to the plastic pulley however i was persistent put it back on the road and used it daily. When it was fixed i put uprated cams in it and it really was an impressive little car and fun to drive with all the creature comforts too. I used to commute between Colchester and Ipswich daily brought it with 21k sold it with 38k about a year and a bit later. Cheap and fun to drive insurance can be a bit of a pain with these as their known to be crashed by the boy racer types.
You should be able to get a 182 within your budget easily.
Common Faults - Hazard Light Switch / Cambelt / Leaky Headlight Washer Jets / TDC Sensor (Located on the Gearbox)
Cold Start Problems
In time the coolant temperature sensor corrodes inside the cylinder head. This will interfere with the resistance and signal which will make the ECU think the water temperature is higher than it actually is. As such no enrichment of the mixture takes place.
Solution
Fitting a new temperature sender should rectify this fault.
Symptoms of a Faulty Top Dead Centre Sensor
The Top Dead Centre (TDC) sensor tells the Engine Control Unit (ECU) where top dead centre is on the engine.
Symptoms
1) Engine cranks but won’t start
2) Engine begins to idle roughly
3) Engine won't kick over when it is cranked
4) Engine fails to start after a hot run, i.e. won’t start until cooler
Solution
The sensor is located on the top of the bell housing. It is a small black cylinder with a little metal point on the end and has a banana shaped metal bracket with the sensor attached.
Remove sensor and wipe with some contact cleaner to see if this rectifies the fault. If not a replacement is required (approximately £17).
Low Idle Speed, High Idle Speed or Stalling at Junctions
The culprit will probably be the Idle Control Valve (ICV) which is located on the top of the inlet manifold. The ICV acts as a gate allowing varying amounts of air into the engine. However they are known to stick. Then they either let too much air into the engine, possibly causing high revs, or not enough starving it of air and causing the engine to almost or actually cut out.
Solution
Remove the wiring connector and three bolts that hold the ICV in place. Liberally spray it with carb cleaner using a small brush to remove any deposits. A new O-ring will be required for reinstallation.
Misfires & Hesitation
It is probable that one or more of the coils has started to fail. It is no good just replacing the failed one(s) as this can cause a knock on effect with the good coils and then the process will start again.
Solution
Unfortunately the only certain way to rectify this is to purchase four new coils.
Engine Revs Not Exceeding 4000rpm
Solution
Try cleaning the M*** Air Flow (MAF) sensor. This is located within the air ducting just before the air filter. Undo the electrical connector and withdraw the MAF sensor. Clean with carb cleaner then brush softly. It is important to check all vacuum pipes for signs of splitting or perishing.
Intermittent, Delayed Starting or Clicking Sound
These symptoms will be caused by faulty or badly corroded terminals on the starter motor or solenoid. In a worst case scenario the motor itself may have failed.
Solution
Remove the electrical connectors and clean them with a br*** wire brush removing any corrosion present. Apply something like Vaseline and refit. If this fails, remove starter motor and replace.
Air Bag and Service Light Illuminated
Solution
Under each of the front seats in the area of the seatbelt pretensioners there will be a block connector. With the ignition turned off remove both and refit them firmly as they have a tendency to come loose. if the light is still on, remove again and spray with contact cleaner. Finally tape the conectors together to hold the two halves in place.
Make sure the ignition has been switch off for at least 10 minutes before you attempts the procedure, to be extra safe the SRS fuse can be removed if you wish.
Water Dripping from Interior Light or Remote Receiver
The problem will be the aerial base seal which can lift due to wind pressure on the whip. This allows water ingress when it is raining.
Solution
Remove the lighting console and remote receiver to gain better access to the aerial base. Undo the nut at the base allowing removal of the aerial. Clean and dry the area then apply waterproof silicone sealant liberally. Refit. The car should now be watertight.
Resynchronising an Infrared (IR) Key Fob
Press and hold the central locking button until doors lock and unlock. The red light will come on. Then point the key fob button at the roof receiver and press numerous times. The doors should lock. Now try and see if the car unlocks by pushing the button again. This may also resynchronise the signal to the immobiliser but cannot be guaranteed.
Resynchronising a Radio Frequency (RF) Key Fob
Turn the ignition off. Press and hold the central locking switch; it does not matter which side. Keep holding until the doors are heard to double lock. It is necessary to hold the central locking button down until the light on the dash stops flashing and stays on fully. Then whilst holding it down press the button on the remote. Finally release the central locking button and press the fob to check the central locking operation.
This procedure will not resynchronise the immobiliser.
I've got a Phase 1 172 with around 109k on the clock. As others have said watch out for the belts (if they've not been changed then it's an expensive job). Will be worth joining Cliosport for the buyers guide.
As for my commute, I have a 70 mile round trip mainly motorway but a bit of A road. I get 40mpg if I take it really easy but mostly 34mpg.
It does say that it likes 98ron but I've not noticed the difference. It runs just fine on the 95ron stuff.
As for my commute, I have a 70 mile round trip mainly motorway but a bit of A road. I get 40mpg if I take it really easy but mostly 34mpg.
It does say that it likes 98ron but I've not noticed the difference. It runs just fine on the 95ron stuff.
Wow some quick responces.
I am coming from a Saab 9000 so the refinement I would notice, I think it might be time to get a back to basics car and I'm after something cheaper to run and don't want a diesel!
I could probably live without the lack of refinement if the car was entertaining enough and I've heard people speaking highly of these.
I am coming from a Saab 9000 so the refinement I would notice, I think it might be time to get a back to basics car and I'm after something cheaper to run and don't want a diesel!
I could probably live without the lack of refinement if the car was entertaining enough and I've heard people speaking highly of these.
I had a 172 ph2 for a couple of years and it was great fun. Did 12k a year and in the time I had it one rear shock started leaking, the passenger seat wiring loom had to be replaced, the headlight washers leaked and the aux belt began to slip at 35k miles, it rattled and the driving position takes a while to get used to.
I'd have another one in a heart beat In fact, I'm trying to persuade the missus that an RS 200 is an ideal car for her (to let me borrow!)
I'd have another one in a heart beat
In fact, I'm trying to persuade the missus that an RS 200 is an ideal car for her (to let me borrow!)Mrs has one as a daily and she loves it. 182, both cup packs. shes done over 80K since 2006.
We had an engine mount replaced under warranty for clunking on full lock.
Exhaust blowing on back box, so was replaced - renault want £700 + labour - £350 stainless system replaced myself
Rear damper went - £48 replaced myself
Emmissions light comes on when it's cold - I think it needs a new lambda sensor but performance, economy not affected (yet).
Other minor faults:
steering wheel coating "melting"
horn contacts corroded in steering wheel causing horn to stick on - pulled fuse out, needs sorting.
headlamp washers get debris in them, the valve stays open which drains the screen wash. £2.50 no-return valve added in line.
Brilliant car great handlling and feedback. When you get in it after driving other cars for a while the feel is great. Seating position isn't great but you can get over it.
We'll run ours untill it dies.
We had an engine mount replaced under warranty for clunking on full lock.
Exhaust blowing on back box, so was replaced - renault want £700 + labour - £350 stainless system replaced myself
Rear damper went - £48 replaced myself
Emmissions light comes on when it's cold - I think it needs a new lambda sensor but performance, economy not affected (yet).
Other minor faults:
steering wheel coating "melting"
horn contacts corroded in steering wheel causing horn to stick on - pulled fuse out, needs sorting.
headlamp washers get debris in them, the valve stays open which drains the screen wash. £2.50 no-return valve added in line.
Brilliant car great handlling and feedback. When you get in it after driving other cars for a while the feel is great. Seating position isn't great but you can get over it.
We'll run ours untill it dies.
I had mine in 2005 for 10 or so months so can't really comment on the longevity of the car but it was my daily. It was very economical considering the performance, I was getting around 32-33mpg without trying which would creep nearer 40mpg on the motorway. Despite being NA it doesn't lack torque due to its lowish weight.
I did have issues with the standard seats (leather/Alcantara) though on journeys over half an hour, despite trying several different seating positions. Most people find them fine though.
In summary, a great little car and I really missed mine when I swapped it for a Civic Type-R.
I did have issues with the standard seats (leather/Alcantara) though on journeys over half an hour, despite trying several different seating positions. Most people find them fine though.
In summary, a great little car and I really missed mine when I swapped it for a Civic Type-R.
I had mine for around 6 months and 10,000 miles, great fun, relatively little went wrong, most economical car I've owned and sold it for exactly what I'd paid for it.
I took mine as far as switzerland via a trackday at spa and the nurburgring so it's not too bad on long journeys.
I'd say it is worth being a bit handy with the spanners as small things would break but the parts were generally cheap. I think I had to change an exhaust mount, rear shocks, disks and pads and that was about it.
I took mine as far as switzerland via a trackday at spa and the nurburgring so it's not too bad on long journeys.
I'd say it is worth being a bit handy with the spanners as small things would break but the parts were generally cheap. I think I had to change an exhaust mount, rear shocks, disks and pads and that was about it.
I bought my 172 Cup about 9mths ago with just under 60k on the clock. I bought it as a 2nd car & a hillclimb car, it is a brilliant little car but it has had a few niggles: Exhaust replaced (knew old one was gone when I bought it), plugs & leads replaced, throttle body cleaned, TDC sensor cleaned & another sensor (I forget which one) replaced. Nothing mega expensive though & I don't regret buying it one bit.
Compared to my 996 C2 its bloody uncomfortable, noisy & unrefined but on short journeys I actually prefer it! Any drive over about 20mls & I will nearly always take the 911 though. They handle really well, go well & sound nice with a decent exhaust (BTB on mine). I also think they look good but that is personal preference.
As stated elsewhere cliosport forum is very useful, costs a tenner to join I think & well worth it.
Good luck & enjoy!
Compared to my 996 C2 its bloody uncomfortable, noisy & unrefined but on short journeys I actually prefer it! Any drive over about 20mls & I will nearly always take the 911 though. They handle really well, go well & sound nice with a decent exhaust (BTB on mine). I also think they look good but that is personal preference.
As stated elsewhere cliosport forum is very useful, costs a tenner to join I think & well worth it.
Good luck & enjoy!
Oh and I should add that it's the most fun car I've owned. When I got all the engine mounts replaced I drove it home and couldn't help but giggle as it was sooooo much fun. I said to my wife that I'll never get rid, once we need something more modern I'll strip it for a track car and then drive it to it's grave.
Buy one, make sure it's been looked after and not abused. Mine had a full history and I had a Renault Mechanic look at it privately and he said "that's the best 172 ph1 that I've driven in a long time". Needed a bit of work £250 but that's nothing really.
Buy one, make sure it's been looked after and not abused. Mine had a full history and I had a Renault Mechanic look at it privately and he said "that's the best 172 ph1 that I've driven in a long time". Needed a bit of work £250 but that's nothing really.
Well I went to look at 3 today and they were all pretty ropey, so I still haven't driven one!
1st one, a '53' 172 Cup had 2 slow punctures, obviously had been sat for a while and had no service history, battery was flat and had no petrol in it, wanted £3100! Ha!
2nd place I went to had 2 black 172s almost identical.
The first one had a complete service history until 2 years ago but still claimed to have FSH on the ad! It had the cambelt done then but had a few chavvy mods, K&N, loud exhasut and crappy rear lights. Also the front lights looked like they had been cleaned with a scouring pad and were all hazey and sctratched!
Asking £3800, no chance!
And the other one had odd panel gaps around the bonnet and N/S wing, I suspected accident damage, no record of a cambelt change either and it was on 73k. That was £2400.
Seems there are some really ropey ones about, I suppose it the nature of the beast, much like 205 GTis in the 80s and 90s, they attract younger buyers who often don't look after them and they get crashed.
The search continues!
1st one, a '53' 172 Cup had 2 slow punctures, obviously had been sat for a while and had no service history, battery was flat and had no petrol in it, wanted £3100! Ha!
2nd place I went to had 2 black 172s almost identical.
The first one had a complete service history until 2 years ago but still claimed to have FSH on the ad! It had the cambelt done then but had a few chavvy mods, K&N, loud exhasut and crappy rear lights. Also the front lights looked like they had been cleaned with a scouring pad and were all hazey and sctratched!
Asking £3800, no chance!And the other one had odd panel gaps around the bonnet and N/S wing, I suspected accident damage, no record of a cambelt change either and it was on 73k. That was £2400.
Seems there are some really ropey ones about, I suppose it the nature of the beast, much like 205 GTis in the 80s and 90s, they attract younger buyers who often don't look after them and they get crashed.
The search continues!
Unlucky. Unfortunately more and more are being neglected. But it does make it great for me because I look after mine
Garett said:
Also the front lights looked like they had been cleaned with a scouring pad and were all hazey and sctratched!
This is a common problem but they can be restored with some wet and dry paper and elbow grease. Certainly not a reason to not the buy the car if the rest of the car is good imo.Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff