Are headlight adjuster bolts all just made out of rust?
Discussion
Every bloody car I've had to adjust the lights on, at least one of the adjuster bolts has just been a corroded mess (sometimes all of them). Yet there are always other bolts/screws mere centimetres away (ie they will experience exactly the same amounts of rain splash, salt etc) that are completely intact. I can only conclude that, at the factory, these bolts are carefully individually crafted out blocks of solid rust in order to ensure that they melt into a USELESS LUMP OF PISS as rapidly as possible.
Pleasantly they're always in awkward positions too so you can't get anything to the bit that's actually stuck as it's buried inside mechanisms and behind shrouds and casings and so forth. I've just spent the afternoon desperately trying to get WD40 onto the seized nuts which involves going around two 90 degree corners in an S shape to get to the f
king seized bits. They're also always fking Philips head as well, which I can only assume is to make them shear away to nothing as quickly as humanly possible. It's all well and good saying to heat it up with a blowtorch too, and I have faith that that method could work sometimes, but I couldn't get to these buggers without melting half the car off first! Argh!
Not having a great afternoon, car failed its MOT on mis-aimed headlights (and adjusters broken so couldn't rectify) and fking parking ticket residue on the windscreen (was wrongly issued a ticket in my own residential car park and the bloody glue wouldn't come off, now sorted though).
I mean come on, it's hardly like the car's going to implode in the next 50 miles - it's just slightly harder to see at night - I can deal with that...!
Pleasantly they're always in awkward positions too so you can't get anything to the bit that's actually stuck as it's buried inside mechanisms and behind shrouds and casings and so forth. I've just spent the afternoon desperately trying to get WD40 onto the seized nuts which involves going around two 90 degree corners in an S shape to get to the f
king seized bits. They're also always fking Philips head as well, which I can only assume is to make them shear away to nothing as quickly as humanly possible. It's all well and good saying to heat it up with a blowtorch too, and I have faith that that method could work sometimes, but I couldn't get to these buggers without melting half the car off first! Argh!Not having a great afternoon, car failed its MOT on mis-aimed headlights (and adjusters broken so couldn't rectify) and f
king parking ticket residue on the windscreen (was wrongly issued a ticket in my own residential car park and the bloody glue wouldn't come off, now sorted though).I mean come on, it's hardly like the car's going to implode in the next 50 miles - it's just slightly harder to see at night - I can deal with that...!
Had this problem on my E39 BMW, left light was pointing at the ground!
Not good as the lights on this 5 series are pants, & that's being generous!
I have a 2 way roller adjuster on the dash for my lights, that only moved the o/s light.
Turned out that the adjuster (plastic) on the light itself had broken. Whole lamp had to come out to replace it!
So nothing rusted, but plastics get brittle.
Not good as the lights on this 5 series are pants, & that's being generous!
I have a 2 way roller adjuster on the dash for my lights, that only moved the o/s light.
Turned out that the adjuster (plastic) on the light itself had broken. Whole lamp had to come out to replace it!
So nothing rusted, but plastics get brittle.
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