Discussion
Could anyone tell me if the hubs fitted to my car are stock 7.1RS. I have just read another thread about wheel bolts. My car has studs rather than bolts but the tool kit has the insertion rods for wheel removal hence me questioning the hubs. I have just taken a few pics which may help in identifying what is fitted to my car. Any help much appreciated 
Rear set-up:




Fronts (again studs rather than bolts):

Rear set-up:




Fronts (again studs rather than bolts):

keep it lit said:
hey 
all looks like standard apart from braided hoses & bolt to stud conversion....
nice H&R's & Akro
Many thanks for the info Keep it lit. Good spot on the other bits 
all looks like standard apart from braided hoses & bolt to stud conversion....
nice H&R's & Akro


jackwood said:
What are those calipers?
Stock steel (were red) painted black.nxi20 said:
I've got studs on my 996 GT3 - they make changing wheels much less of a faff. A word of warning though: make sure they don't loosen in the hub because they will then break; ask me how I know 
That sounds messy 

Richie200 said:
That sounds messy 
It could have been - I discovered I'd broken 2 studs on the left rear at the end of a trackday ragging round Oulton on slicks (with The Goose passengering for the last hour). I may not have mentioned the breakage to Marcus 

Those studs are strong though as I had to drive 200 miles back home on 3 studs and got there without a problem

These stud stories aren't filling me with confidence 
Did you use a thread lock? I don't really want to be removing wheels every 5 minutes to check if the studs have snapped/worked loose. I am struggling to see how they could work loose TBH, maybe they were not seated correctly on fit (i.e a bigger hammer and/or larger bloke required for inserting them). Once flush with their mating surface and the wheels torqued up correctly, they shouldn't be going anywhere

Did you use a thread lock? I don't really want to be removing wheels every 5 minutes to check if the studs have snapped/worked loose. I am struggling to see how they could work loose TBH, maybe they were not seated correctly on fit (i.e a bigger hammer and/or larger bloke required for inserting them). Once flush with their mating surface and the wheels torqued up correctly, they shouldn't be going anywhere

I did a stud conversion on my Exige but they were shanked so impossible to "poke through" into the handbrake assembly.
I was paranoid they'd work loose as they're torqued into the hub only to about 25-30Nm but with Red loctite they never moved even with frequent wheel swaps using a rattle gun.
Scribe a mark onto the hub and studs to put your mind at ease.
I was paranoid they'd work loose as they're torqued into the hub only to about 25-30Nm but with Red loctite they never moved even with frequent wheel swaps using a rattle gun.
Scribe a mark onto the hub and studs to put your mind at ease.
Richie200 said:
These stud stories aren't filling me with confidence 
Did you use a thread lock? I don't really want to be removing wheels every 5 minutes to check if the studs have snapped/worked loose. I am struggling to see how they could work loose TBH, maybe they were not seated correctly on fit (i.e a bigger hammer and/or larger bloke required for inserting them). Once flush with their mating surface and the wheels torqued up correctly, they shouldn't be going anywhere
Firstly, it was only evident on the most loaded corner (left rear) and slicks do tend to impose quite an additional load, so I don't think my experience is the norm.
Did you use a thread lock? I don't really want to be removing wheels every 5 minutes to check if the studs have snapped/worked loose. I am struggling to see how they could work loose TBH, maybe they were not seated correctly on fit (i.e a bigger hammer and/or larger bloke required for inserting them). Once flush with their mating surface and the wheels torqued up correctly, they shouldn't be going anywhere

Looking closely at the studs I used (which came from an American supplier) compared to the different ones I replaced them with that came from another American supplier at 3 times the price, the replacements are far superior in every way; even though they both have shoulders & nice bullet noses & superficially look the same, they are most definitely not. Red Loctite was used but I suspect the 20+ trackdays they were subjected to this year loosened them a little & I should have been paying more attention.
We'll see how the new ones hold up next year...
Many thanks for the feedback NXI, I'll put it down to a one-off then.
And yes same bloke on the seat front.
Jim1556 said:
I take it they were painted by the same bellend that covered your gorgeous Lightweight Buckets with matt black?
Have you got an RS sticker for the boot yet?
Hi Jim, I didn't want to add more weight to the rear mate, so I don't need your stinking badges Have you got an RS sticker for the boot yet?
And yes same bloke on the seat front.Edited by Richie200 on Sunday 21st December 10:40
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