Shifter cable positioning / adjustment
Shifter cable positioning / adjustment
Author
Discussion

trap125

Original Poster:

73 posts

140 months

Tuesday 20th February 2018
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I've just installed a new 997.2 GT3 shifter into my 996.2 GT3and had a quick question...

Some people have said that the cables should be placed back exactly in the same position as they came out (count the threads and place back exactly) and others have said that the grey/green tool (came with the new shifter) that holds the shifter in neutral should be used and the cables installed with the shifter in that position.

Can anybody clarify the correct procedure?

Many thanks.

ditchvisitor

1,233 posts

249 months

Tuesday 20th February 2018
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I did mine a few weeks back, marked the cables in the old shifter before removal, used the green thing to hold the new one in place and refitted cables to the same markings, removed green thing and then marvelled at the rifle bolt like shortened shifting!

cd1957

648 posts

204 months

Wednesday 21st February 2018
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Hi use the green locking tool thats on the new shifter, it puts the stick in the correct position, then attach cables.

Chris

jakesmith

9,497 posts

199 months

Wednesday 21st February 2018
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I’ve always marked the metal with a fine permenant marker at the exact point where it reaches the end of the sleeve so that on reinstallation they can be put back in the right place

On mine I accidentally rubbed off the marked line! Was stting myself but It is very obvious if you have done it wrong, shift through the gears including reverse with the car off. If they don’t engage right or the lever doesn’t move over or up and down, then adjust the cables stop position in its boot, the one that relates to the axis that doesn’t work.

If I can do it anyone can!

trap125

Original Poster:

73 posts

140 months

Wednesday 21st February 2018
quotequote all
Thanks guys. But as per the two posts above... one person says to do it one way and the other to do it the other way!

Maybe there is no right or wrong? Maybe I should try it both ways and see what feels best? Although, would I be right in guessing that all that would change is a very slight different position of the gear leaver? Would there be any difference to the shifts?

Jefferson Steelflex

1,607 posts

127 months

Wednesday 21st February 2018
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You do need to mark the cables, sure there is some flexibility but it needs to be close. The locking tool locks the gearbox in neutral, so you know the cables are in the right place when you remove them. I tried to find a guide on cable positioning when I did mine, just so I would know what moving the cable back/forward 3 notches would do, but couldn't find anything.

It's only if you have a dodgy shift already you should play with the cables to see if you can improve it.

The left cable does reverse only by the way, all forward gears are right side.


trap125

Original Poster:

73 posts

140 months

Thursday 22nd February 2018
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Many thanks for the replies

kel176506

228 posts

215 months

Thursday 22nd February 2018
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Does anyone have one of these tools for sale? I want check mine now having read this thread.

jakesmith

9,497 posts

199 months

Friday 23rd February 2018
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It’s only £10 it’s just a bit of plastic
Didn’t know the left one was only reverse that’s news to me and I’ve changed 4 so far
Just buy a fine permenant marker pen and mark the cable. You’ll see what to do when you open it it’s pretty obvious.
I’d also take a couple photos before removing it just in case

Deaky

1 posts

128 months

Wednesday 25th July 2018
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Do they make a big difference to the change of the shift? Is the procedure the same for a turbo?

Thanks in advance guys.

Pope

2,653 posts

275 months

Saturday 4th August 2018
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Short shift reduces lever travel between gears; the trade off is increased shift effort. After fitting, gear selection when cold can feel notchy - especially 2nd.

Ignore comment above about left and right cables - one cable moves the mech forward and backwards the other cable moves the mech across the gate; you need both, correctly adjusted for it to work properly!!

For reference; with both cables removed from the selector in the car and the transmission in neutral the cables are in 'rest' position. The transmission has all the detented gear positions within its selector mechanism - the lever doesn't have any predefined gate so can be placed 'anywhere' which leads to issues.

Using the tool fixes the lever in the neutral position - the transmission is fixed; the lever is fixed; install cables - simple!

If for personal preference you want the lever a bit further back or forward or you dont have the tool, ID the cable that is moved when the lever is moved forward and adjust only that one (eg: lever is too far back in 2nd/4th/6th it will be not far enough forward in R/1st/3rd/5th) select 4th - this holds the cable securely via the transmission detent, release cable and refit with the threaded portion further in the mount.

If the lever is leaning left or right; adjust the other cable - in the same way, more threads in the mount moves the lever one way, less threads; the other.

ttdan

1,113 posts

221 months

Saturday 4th August 2018
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Pope said:
Short shift reduces lever travel between gears; the trade off is increased shift effort. After fitting, gear selection when cold can feel notchy - especially 2nd.

Ignore comment above about left and right cables - one cable moves the mech forward and backwards the other cable moves the mech across the gate; you need both, correctly adjusted for it to work properly!!

For reference; with both cables removed from the selector in the car and the transmission in neutral the cables are in 'rest' position. The transmission has all the detented gear positions within its selector mechanism - the lever doesn't have any predefined gate so can be placed 'anywhere' which leads to issues.

Using the tool fixes the lever in the neutral position - the transmission is fixed; the lever is fixed; install cables - simple!

If for personal preference you want the lever a bit further back or forward or you dont have the tool, ID the cable that is moved when the lever is moved forward and adjust only that one (eg: lever is too far back in 2nd/4th/6th it will be not far enough forward in R/1st/3rd/5th) select 4th - this holds the cable securely via the transmission detent, release cable and refit with the threaded portion further in the mount.

If the lever is leaning left or right; adjust the other cable - in the same way, more threads in the mount moves the lever one way, less threads; the other.
Top drawer advice. You can, if desired, actually fine tune the position and throw. If you assumed the 3-4 plane Is totally central to the car i think you may find its not, its actually slightly leaning left, ie towards a Driver in a LHD car. Not sure if the plastic neutral set tool is handed? Would be (semi😂) interesting to know.