Torque Wrench for 991.2 GT3?
Discussion
Hi all,
The other day I had a screw in my tyre and went to the local tyre place to take it out. Luckily it came out and wasn't causing a leak, but the bloke then told me he couldn't get the wheel off anyway as he didn't have the equipment etc. This is a new experience for me, being a first time GT3 owner.
We already have the bolt fitment so I believe it's just the wrench. I think it would be a good plan to buy this and have it in the car, so I was wondering how many of you have bought one and which/where you bought it?
Cheers!
The other day I had a screw in my tyre and went to the local tyre place to take it out. Luckily it came out and wasn't causing a leak, but the bloke then told me he couldn't get the wheel off anyway as he didn't have the equipment etc. This is a new experience for me, being a first time GT3 owner.
We already have the bolt fitment so I believe it's just the wrench. I think it would be a good plan to buy this and have it in the car, so I was wondering how many of you have bought one and which/where you bought it?
Cheers!
When I had the GT3 I used a 5:1 torque multiplier like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sykes-Pickavant-800600-... and a standard 1/2" drive torque wrench. Not as accurate as a direct torque wrench but I never had any problems with it. It's easier to take in the car when on trips too..
Along the same line of thinking as 993AL above, I have a 1:3.3 torque multiplier that is similar to this one:
https://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/torque-mult...
I keep this in the car together with a 600mm long 1/2" drive breaker bar (just a long socket wrench) so that I will never be stuck roadside without the ability to remove or refit the wheel. The breaker bar connects to the 1/2" input drive on the multipier and the centre lock socket (which is supplied with the car) fastens to the 3/4" output drive on the other side of the device.
Removing the centre lock nut is straightforward with this set-up. However, the breaker bar method means that the centre lock cannot be tightened accurately, of course, but you can follow the 'emergency roadside procedure' as explained in the handbook, to refit and secure the wheel adequately enough to get you home or to a dealer/OPC with a calibrated torque wrench.
One of the attractions of these torque mutipliers is that they are compact enough to carry in the car, together with the 600mm breaker bar. I have mine 'wrapped' in a simple black canvas tool roll which is secured with velcro straps to the floor of the frunk. A bit of additional weight, of course, which is a shame but it makes for good peace of mind!
Back at base, I have a relatively compact 1/2" torque wrench - rated to 350Nm I think, which will go up to around 1000Nm using the multiplier - so that I can accurately tighten the centre lock once I'm in a more friendly environment. You will hear people saying that a torque multiplier will introduce inaccuracy but it is essentially a straightforward epicyclic gear set that is inherently efficient (and accurate) such that you will have no trouble in torquing-up well within the specified limits.
Two final thoughts; as an alternative to this approach you can buy a suitably (beefy!) specced 3/4" drive torque wrench with a telescopic handle - so these, too, are compact enough to be carried in the car but unless you're lucky on eBay the cost is likely to make you wince... And I think they are quite weighty, too. Check the US forums and sites where GT-car owners tend to favour these.
And finally, if you have ceramic brakes, don't forget to buy and carry with you the tool (adaptor) that allows you to slide the wheel off the centre mount without risk of it slipping and damaging the edge of one of your discs. Putting that right would make the cost of even an expensive torque wrench seem trivial...
James
https://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/torque-mult...
I keep this in the car together with a 600mm long 1/2" drive breaker bar (just a long socket wrench) so that I will never be stuck roadside without the ability to remove or refit the wheel. The breaker bar connects to the 1/2" input drive on the multipier and the centre lock socket (which is supplied with the car) fastens to the 3/4" output drive on the other side of the device.
Removing the centre lock nut is straightforward with this set-up. However, the breaker bar method means that the centre lock cannot be tightened accurately, of course, but you can follow the 'emergency roadside procedure' as explained in the handbook, to refit and secure the wheel adequately enough to get you home or to a dealer/OPC with a calibrated torque wrench.
One of the attractions of these torque mutipliers is that they are compact enough to carry in the car, together with the 600mm breaker bar. I have mine 'wrapped' in a simple black canvas tool roll which is secured with velcro straps to the floor of the frunk. A bit of additional weight, of course, which is a shame but it makes for good peace of mind!
Back at base, I have a relatively compact 1/2" torque wrench - rated to 350Nm I think, which will go up to around 1000Nm using the multiplier - so that I can accurately tighten the centre lock once I'm in a more friendly environment. You will hear people saying that a torque multiplier will introduce inaccuracy but it is essentially a straightforward epicyclic gear set that is inherently efficient (and accurate) such that you will have no trouble in torquing-up well within the specified limits.
Two final thoughts; as an alternative to this approach you can buy a suitably (beefy!) specced 3/4" drive torque wrench with a telescopic handle - so these, too, are compact enough to be carried in the car but unless you're lucky on eBay the cost is likely to make you wince... And I think they are quite weighty, too. Check the US forums and sites where GT-car owners tend to favour these.
And finally, if you have ceramic brakes, don't forget to buy and carry with you the tool (adaptor) that allows you to slide the wheel off the centre mount without risk of it slipping and damaging the edge of one of your discs. Putting that right would make the cost of even an expensive torque wrench seem trivial...
James
Edited by short-shift on Tuesday 2nd October 08:46
Snap!!!!
Got a screw in one of my rear tyres last week, only done 1200 miles as well.
Inflated the tyre and took it to the local tyre garage and as screw was bang in the middle was going to get them to repair it. Once they'd read the manual on how to remove the wheel one of the guys shouts f
k, there is no way we can do this, they need 600nM to get them back on.
So nearly 400 quid lighter I've had to have a new rear tyre, rather than having it repaired. Only just thought now I should have asked to keep the old one and had it repaired for £10 and either kept it as a spare or sold it on
Got a screw in one of my rear tyres last week, only done 1200 miles as well.
Inflated the tyre and took it to the local tyre garage and as screw was bang in the middle was going to get them to repair it. Once they'd read the manual on how to remove the wheel one of the guys shouts f
k, there is no way we can do this, they need 600nM to get them back on.So nearly 400 quid lighter I've had to have a new rear tyre, rather than having it repaired. Only just thought now I should have asked to keep the old one and had it repaired for £10 and either kept it as a spare or sold it on
D1ckie said:
Snap!!!!
Got a screw in one of my rear tyres last week, only done 1200 miles as well.
Inflated the tyre and took it to the local tyre garage and as screw was bang in the middle was going to get them to repair it. Once they'd read the manual on how to remove the wheel one of the guys shouts fk, there is no way we can do this, they need 600nM to get them back on.
So nearly 400 quid lighter I've had to have a new rear tyre, rather than having it repaired. Only just thought now I should have asked to keep the old one and had it repaired for £10 and either kept it as a spare or sold it on
Snap.Got a screw in one of my rear tyres last week, only done 1200 miles as well.
Inflated the tyre and took it to the local tyre garage and as screw was bang in the middle was going to get them to repair it. Once they'd read the manual on how to remove the wheel one of the guys shouts f
k, there is no way we can do this, they need 600nM to get them back on.So nearly 400 quid lighter I've had to have a new rear tyre, rather than having it repaired. Only just thought now I should have asked to keep the old one and had it repaired for £10 and either kept it as a spare or sold it on
Slow puncture, usual tyre fitter didn't have the kit, so off to Porsche for a new tyre at £375. Centre locks look great but are a PITA.
They need to be tightened to 600nm, why would anyone want to have a 6ft bar in their car 
Call Porsche assist, stick the foam in it, run it flat, take it to a decent tyre supplier. I think I would rather any of those options than have a great big metal bar in the car that I will probably never use
Call Porsche assist, stick the foam in it, run it flat, take it to a decent tyre supplier. I think I would rather any of those options than have a great big metal bar in the car that I will probably never use
Scott Parker said:
They need to be tightened to 600nm, why would anyone want to have a 6ft bar in their car
Call Porsche assist, stick the foam in it, run it flat, take it to a decent tyre supplier. I think I would rather any of those options than have a great big metal bar in the car that I will probably never use
Err... as per my post above, get a torque multiplier and then you just need a realtively short 600mm bar in the car. So only two feet long, not the six foot monster you mention - and you then have some options other than having to wait for Porsche Assist or trying to find a 'decent' tyre fitter with the right equipment...Call Porsche assist, stick the foam in it, run it flat, take it to a decent tyre supplier. I think I would rather any of those options than have a great big metal bar in the car that I will probably never use
James
short-shift said:
Err... as per my post above, get a torque multiplier and then you just need a realtively short 600mm bar in the car. So only two feet long, not the six foot monster you mention - and you then have some options other than having to wait for Porsche Assist or trying to find a 'decent' tyre fitter with the right equipment...
James
That torque bar only goes to 300nm. Have you tried it? Centrelocks need nearer 900nm to crack them undoneJames
Scott Parker said:
That torque bar only goes to 300nm. Have you tried it? Centrelocks need nearer 900nm to crack them undone
I think you may have mis-read or misunderstood, Scott; the multiplier I linked to (I guess that's what you were referring to?) is rated for 300Nm input and 1000Nm output torue. An ample sufficiency!James
short-shift said:
Along the same line of thinking as 993AL above, I have a 1:3.3 torque multiplier that is similar to this one:
https://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/torque-mult...
I keep this in the car together with a 600mm long 1/2" drive breaker bar (just a long socket wrench) so that I will never be stuck roadside without the ability to remove or refit the wheel. The breaker bar connects to the 1/2" input drive on the multipier and the centre lock socket (which is supplied with the car) fastens to the 3/4" output drive on the other side of the device.
Removing the centre lock nut is straightforward with this set-up. However, the breaker bar method means that the centre lock cannot be tightened accurately, of course, but you can follow the 'emergency roadside procedure' as explained in the handbook, to refit and secure the wheel adequately enough to get you home or to a dealer/OPC with a calibrated torque wrench.
One of the attractions of these torque mutipliers is that they are compact enough to carry in the car, together with the 600mm breaker bar. I have mine 'wrapped' in a simple black canvas tool roll which is secured with velcro straps to the floor of the frunk. A bit of additional weight, of course, which is a shame but it makes for good peace of mind!
Back at base, I have a relatively compact 1/2" torque wrench - rated to 350Nm I think, which will go up to around 1000Nm using the multiplier - so that I can accurately tighten the centre lock once I'm in a more friendly environment. You will hear people saying that a torque multiplier will introduce inaccuracy but it is essentially a straightforward epicyclic gear set that is inherently efficient (and accurate) such that you will have no trouble in torquing-up well within the specified limits.
Two final thoughts; as an alternative to this approach you can buy a suitably (beefy!) specced 3/4" drive torque wrench with a telescopic handle - so these, too, are compact enough to be carried in the car but unless you're lucky on eBay the cost is likely to make you wince... And I think they are quite weighty, too. Check the US forums and sites where GT-car owners tend to favour these.
And finally, if you have ceramic brakes, don't forget to buy and carry with you the tool (adaptor) that allows you to slide the wheel off the centre mount without risk of it slipping and damaging the edge of one of your discs. Putting that right would make the cost of even an expensive torque wrench seem trivial...
James
I agree! Top post short-shift, thank you https://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/torque-mult...
I keep this in the car together with a 600mm long 1/2" drive breaker bar (just a long socket wrench) so that I will never be stuck roadside without the ability to remove or refit the wheel. The breaker bar connects to the 1/2" input drive on the multipier and the centre lock socket (which is supplied with the car) fastens to the 3/4" output drive on the other side of the device.
Removing the centre lock nut is straightforward with this set-up. However, the breaker bar method means that the centre lock cannot be tightened accurately, of course, but you can follow the 'emergency roadside procedure' as explained in the handbook, to refit and secure the wheel adequately enough to get you home or to a dealer/OPC with a calibrated torque wrench.
One of the attractions of these torque mutipliers is that they are compact enough to carry in the car, together with the 600mm breaker bar. I have mine 'wrapped' in a simple black canvas tool roll which is secured with velcro straps to the floor of the frunk. A bit of additional weight, of course, which is a shame but it makes for good peace of mind!
Back at base, I have a relatively compact 1/2" torque wrench - rated to 350Nm I think, which will go up to around 1000Nm using the multiplier - so that I can accurately tighten the centre lock once I'm in a more friendly environment. You will hear people saying that a torque multiplier will introduce inaccuracy but it is essentially a straightforward epicyclic gear set that is inherently efficient (and accurate) such that you will have no trouble in torquing-up well within the specified limits.
Two final thoughts; as an alternative to this approach you can buy a suitably (beefy!) specced 3/4" drive torque wrench with a telescopic handle - so these, too, are compact enough to be carried in the car but unless you're lucky on eBay the cost is likely to make you wince... And I think they are quite weighty, too. Check the US forums and sites where GT-car owners tend to favour these.
And finally, if you have ceramic brakes, don't forget to buy and carry with you the tool (adaptor) that allows you to slide the wheel off the centre mount without risk of it slipping and damaging the edge of one of your discs. Putting that right would make the cost of even an expensive torque wrench seem trivial...
James
Edited by short-shift on Tuesday 2nd October 08:46
I have centrelocks on mine and all I have right now is a small repair kit to use in extremis to get me home....would like to get comfortable with removing them like I do with standard wheels, but I’m very wary and don’t have the tools. Used to have a Halfords torque wrench but sold it (doh).
Would you be able to post a few images of the respective items you’ve described please? Would help me visualise!
Many thanks.
rbh said:
You also need the aluminium grease for the hubs, does anyone know where it can be purchased in the UK, please.
Rob
Not 100% sure but I think it’s this stuff:Rob
https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod126346/Castrol-...
Fl0pp3r said:
rbh said:
You also need the aluminium grease for the hubs, does anyone know where it can be purchased in the UK, please.
Rob
Not 100% sure but I think it’s this stuff:Rob
https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod126346/Castrol-...
James
Edited by short-shift on Wednesday 3rd October 05:43
Fl0pp3r said:
Would you be able to post a few images of the respective items you’ve described please? Would help me visualise!
Many thanks.
Yes - I can do that but it will probably be later in the week before I have the chance. I know how confused I was when I first tried to get my head around the topic and a picture is definitely worth a 1000 words...Many thanks.
James
Given the car has no spare wheel, what benefit is there from removing the wheel at the roadside?
I certainly agree that CLs are a pain when punctures happen. I managed to reach the nearest, but not near, OPC but only after inflating the tyre at various petrol stations en route..... not the most pleasant drive!
Upside is they look great..... not sure I would order again though.
I certainly agree that CLs are a pain when punctures happen. I managed to reach the nearest, but not near, OPC but only after inflating the tyre at various petrol stations en route..... not the most pleasant drive!
Upside is they look great..... not sure I would order again though.
short-shift said:
Fl0pp3r said:
rbh said:
You also need the aluminium grease for the hubs, does anyone know where it can be purchased in the UK, please.
Rob
Not 100% sure but I think it’s this stuff:Rob
https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod126346/Castrol-...
James
Thanks, James
Rob
Edited by short-shift on Wednesday 3rd October 05:43
olly22n said:
IMac said:
Given the car has no spare wheel, what benefit is there from removing the wheel at the roadside?
I suppose you could then take it to a tyre garage to get fixed, or if you can get the whole car to the garage, at least have the kit to remove the wheel.Gassing Station | 911/Carrera GT | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff