996 Turbo high mileage

[n3il123]

I've always wanted a 911 Turbo, I think I need to get one before its too late (and the Mrs spends all my money on the new house).

I reckon I have about £30 - 35k maybe a bit more to spend, which I can see will get me into a 996 turbo with a few miles on. Now i'm not afraid of mileage like some people both my car are over 100k (a5 125k and z3 175k) but i'm just wondering what if there are any model specific things to watch out for? anything that just grenades itself at 101k miles?

Any advice or experience you could share would be much appreciated.

[jimPH]

I bought one with 98k miles, but it had radiators done, new coffin arms, top mounts, plus loads of other bits. Just get a good PPI. One with the chicken wire in the inlets will be better for radiator longevity.

Look out for rust in tunnel above the gearbox, front chassis rails and under the inner arch at the rear.

Check brakes as they can feel a bit wooden.

Don't run above 1.5 bar, you'll lift the heads as the standard studs are not man enough.

[davek_964]

jimPH said:

...One with the chicken wire in the inlets will be better for radiator longevity....

Easy DIY job - I did mine with about £20 of black mesh from Halfords.

[Digga]

Gearboxes; check the gearboxes very carefully. These cars, especially if they've been even mildly mapped, are shifting a lot of torque. The 'box is common (pretty much the same) to all Mezger engined 996 and 997 cars - so all the turbos and GT cars basically - and they can all have issues. Google the phrase "second gear pop out".

Good thread here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/...

The turbos have two of everything that can be expensive (turbos, intercoolers, actuators, boost valves) except for radiators, of which it has three. They all can and will need attention form time to time. Some stuff will suffer more on cars less frequently used too.

Buy from a good dealer and get a PPI.

These cars are, however, incredible, amazing machines. For my money the 996 is the most handsome of all the turbos. They tend to suffer by comparison to the (much more track focused) GT2 and GT3 models and get called a Grand Tourer rather too often. This really sells the car well short of its abilities IME.

[jimPH]

davek_964 said:

jimPH said:

...One with the chicken wire in the inlets will be better for radiator longevity....

Easy DIY job - I did mine with about £20 of black mesh from Halfords.

It is, but if it has the chicken wire already, then the radiators will be in better condition. Without, budget for replacement.

[n3il123]

Thanks everyone for the input, nothing too scary by the sounds of it.

Any thoughts on how bad a Tip is to to drive and also do they have any specific weakness?

I'd like a manual but keep getting ankle issues so thinking maybe best to get another auto, however i'm a little worried that the gearbox would always be in the wrong gear and the engine always off boost.

[davek_964]

n3il123 said:

Thanks everyone for the input, nothing too scary by the sounds of it.

Any thoughts on how bad a Tip is to to drive and also do they have any specific weakness?

I'd like a manual but keep getting ankle issues so thinking maybe best to get another auto, however i'm a little worried that the gearbox would always be in the wrong gear and the engine always off boost.

Ken (owner of 9E) had a tip which was kicking out some ridiculous amount of power. I think they're actually very strong - not sure about it being in the wrong gear but I assume you can just stick it in manual mode.

[rabbitstew]

They handle high mileage really well. My 997 turbo is on 106k now. Ive had it since 69k. Biggest thing is to check whats been replaced already. Mine came with a big stack of receipts. Like others have said, radiators & condensers as rubbish from the road gets in through the front vents, then they get damp and rot. The radiator housings can rot and the pipes etc. Mechanically they are pretty strong and easy to maintain. Coil packs can crack, starters fail. I had my 997 fully checked over by 9e mechanically last year and there wasnt much wrong with it after 100k miles. They even said the turbos were within spec, the engine compression etc was all good etc. I also had centre gravity fully check the cars suspension out. Apart from a coupe of coffin arms, the car was fine, shocks were still performing as new and they even commended on its condition, saying they had seen low-mileage cars in much worse condition.

[shantybeater]

For what they are they are incredibly reliable. Turns out they are cheaper to run than an E46 M3 and the servicing isn't far off either!

That said mine is a summer car only and its hardly high miles 69k~.

As said, coffin arms & radiators upfront are a bonus if done recently, those are the high(ish) ticket items that have been replaced in my 6+ year ownership. Otherwise the car has been a joy.

[IMI A]

So funny people get worked up about not getting halo car allocations when you can buy a beautiful 996 turbo (arguably the best turbo Porsche made) for peanuts by comparison. Modern set of Ohlins £2k. Send to 9e for 700bhp and you have fabulous road car. Main issue is you tend to have to go out for very early morning drives of you want to get half way nr it’s limits. It would give a new GT3 RS a shock on road. Go manual if you can as clutch on these feather light but tip not as bad as people make out. Just a bit sluggish to respond. Brilliant cars

[IMI A]

https://www.williamscrawford.co.uk/listings/porsch...

Here's realistically priced very low miles turbo. Non glove box model with ruffled leather which both not desirable so you could defo knock a few grand off but main point is you do not have to buy a high miles car with you budget. They look stunning in arctic too - best colour imo for 996 turbo. It will be a good car if Adrian selling it.

[fot0]

The rear spoiler actuators can become problematic so would check they function. Other than gearbox mentioned the engine is pretty much bullet proof. All other aspects are as any 996 and regular oil changes services.

[n3il123]

Thanks all for the advice, I guess the take away from it is that there are a couple of big ticket issues that may occur but nothing that will occur! Time to have a look at a couple and get some management buy in...

[Whoozit]

davek_964 said:

n3il123 said:

I'd like a manual but keep getting ankle issues so thinking maybe best to get another auto, however i'm a little worried that the gearbox would always be in the wrong gear and the engine always off boost.

Ken (owner of 9E) had a tip which was kicking out some ridiculous amount of power. I think they're actually very strong - not sure about it being in the wrong gear but I assume you can just stick it in manual mode.

Same Tip box in my 997T I think. it's fairly responsive to driving style, so if you are giving it beans, it holds gears longer even on part throttle eg through corners. Spend a minute or two wafting, and it swaps back to cruising mode.

[ATM]

My first 996tt experience was back in 2001 and I was a passenger. The car was a tip. The driver wanted to show me how it can take off from around 25 or 30mph which he then demonstrated. It did take off fast and I suspect it's probably because the tip box will kick down to 1st. I've never seen anyone with any mechanical sympathy do that in a manual. I had to get a replacement box for my manual vanilla 996. Before that I assumed a manual gearbox was low risk but in these cars it is not. Check out the prices of 2nd hand gearboxes on ebay to get an idea of prices.

[Theone8181]

ATM said:

My first 996tt experience was back in 2001 and I was a passenger. The car was a tip. The driver wanted to show me how it can take off from around 25 or 30mph which he then demonstrated. It did take off fast and I suspect it's probably because the tip box will kick down to 1st. I've never seen anyone with any mechanical sympathy do that in a manual. I had to get a replacement box for my manual vanilla 996. Before that I assumed a manual gearbox was low risk but in these cars it is not. Check out the prices of 2nd hand gearboxes on ebay to get an idea of prices.

That was a gripe of mine when I had it. In a manual there is definitely a second before anything happens when you boot it in second at 30. It didn't feel right knocking it down to 1st.

[mikep240]

Digga said:

These cars are, however, incredible, amazing machines. For my money the 996 is the most handsome of all the turbos. They tend to suffer by comparison to the (much more track focused) GT2 and GT3 models and get called a Grand Tourer rather too often. This really sells the car well short of its abilities IME.

Digga has nailed it. Simply amazing cars for the money, especially with Ohlins and exhaust + remap. More than a match for almost anything with these minor mods, all of which are reversible when sale time comes. Mine is a 'Tip box, it is pretty good once you understand its various modes. Add a 700hp engine as per IMI A's suggestion and I think you would hard pushed to better the performance for the same budget, or pretty much any budget if looking solely at road performance.

If you are prepared to set aside a slush fund of 2-3K, most things can be addressed within this budget, rads and condensers, suspension refresh if not all done at once etc.

[Nobby Diesel]

mikep240 said:

Digga has nailed it. Simply amazing cars for the money, especially with Ohlins and exhaust + remap. More than a match for almost anything with these minor mods, all of which are reversible when sale time comes. Mine is a 'Tip box, it is pretty good once you understand its various modes. Add a 700hp engine as per IMI A's suggestion and I think you would hard pushed to better the performance for the same budget, or pretty much any budget if looking solely at road performance.

If you are prepared to set aside a slush fund of 2-3K, most things can be addressed within this budget, rads and condensers, suspension refresh if not all done at once etc.

Seconded, regarding the Digga synopsis.
I bought my 2001 996 turbo, as a 4 year old car, with 50K on it; so toppish. I still own it and it has 91K on it, as an 18+ year old car, which is still completely standard spec'.
During ownership, I have replaced the clutch once, front wheel bearings, rads and condensers, rear shocks, front shocks, top mounts, coffin arms, alternator, heat shields, door membrane, door lock mechanism and clutch accumulator. In addition, the regular wear and tear discs, pads, belts, plugs etc.
All in all, it really isn't significant at all, when you consider the age and the 90K+ miles.
In many areas, these are not difficult cars to work on. A lot of jobs can be done yourself, on the drive at home.
I know that the 'box will need a rebuild one day.
All this considered, these are sublime cars. You can nip down to the shops in one, or you can have the most thrilling drive imaginable on a different road.
When I give this car a "proper" clean, it still looks every inch, a true supercar. It boosts to 0.8 easily. I've seen 0.9 a couple of times, on chilly mornings with damp air and a clear road.
Mine is a manual, which I love and can't compare with a Tip' as I have no experience of one.
Dive in a get one; I can't imagine you'll regret it for one minute.

[StuB]

IMI A said:

So funny people get worked up about not getting halo car allocations when you can buy a beautiful 996 turbo (arguably the best turbo Porsche made) for peanuts by comparison. Modern set of Ohlins £2k. Send to 9e for 700bhp and you have fabulous road car. Main issue is you tend to have to go out for very early morning drives of you want to get half way nr it’s limits. It would give a new GT3 RS a shock on road. Go manual if you can as clutch on these feather light but tip not as bad as people make out. Just a bit sluggish to respond. Brilliant cars

Had mine since 2010 with low 40's on the clock with Techart upgrades (suspension, quick action gear linkage, 6 pot brkes, alloys) and a DMS stage 2 (map & zorst mods). It's had further mods snice, as said above, not much can live with it on road or track.

Now just under 80 k miles, it's done many trackdays, many road trips and some family business with ease.

Main thing I'd suggest is to get the best PPI you can, but don't let issue put you off buying a car, just buy it at the right price for the condition.

Second thing is, go speak to your local indepenndent about how many turbo's they look after and what they regularly or irregularly have to do. In Yorkshire, we've some really good independents and some not so good independents. Lots of good advice in the Pork community I think.

Final think is go into it with your eyes open and be prepared to put your hand in your pocket as things can go wrong, but I think it's also worth thinking about re-sale and a car with a fully documented history and lots of TLC will usually sell for reasonable money.

I've been tempted to look at a few things since 2010, but when I'm enjoying my turbo up in the Scottish borders, frm Selkirk to Moffat, like a couple of months ago, not much can get anywhere near these things! Happy shopping.



Excuse the old mans car in the foreground

[simonsti]

I've had my 04TT for 5 years now and unless you're doing lots of track days I can't imagine why you'd want more pace on the public road...the performance is unreal when the boost comes in.

Expensive when they go wrong but definitely worth it.