Low milage 997tt v higher mileage one?
Discussion
anonymous said:
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Potentially, yes.In either case, you want to see significant evidence of routine and sympathetic maintenance at OPC or, (probably preferably, given the age) a well reputed indy. You'd also definitely want a PPI.
Check the gearboxes. These things develop huge thrust and the 'boxes from the factory were not always assembled bang-on. You can get synchro issues and the dreaded 2nd gear 'pop-out'. They can also eat clutches too, in the wrong hands. Can all be fixed, but at a price.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Dunno, but the question is, if it's a 'box who would fix it. I don't think (please someone correct me if I am wrong) it is the sort of job an OPC would conduct in-house. The only place I know for sure that does the job is Sports and Classic near Wilmslow.Other stuff an OPC warranty would be pretty decent for though. You'd want the car checked though, to know you were not going to have to jump through expensive hoops to set it up to comply with OPC warranty policy.
shantybeater said:
70k money is near 997.2 money which is a much much better car (especially in auto form).
Personally i would go for the 50k car for a 997.1, just don't see them worth much more (but then i see less value in a 997.1T over a 996T than I do a 997.1T-997.2T).
Spot on, mad to spend £70k on a gen 1 and old low miles ones are nightmares in my experiencePersonally i would go for the 50k car for a 997.1, just don't see them worth much more (but then i see less value in a 997.1T over a 996T than I do a 997.1T-997.2T).
£50k feels top whack to me for one, the car is a one trick pony and there are loads of comparably fast cars out there now
jakesmith said:
low miles ones are nightmares in my experience
It is a dilemma. When you have owned a turbo, you are very much aware of how little one is able to exercise them on UK roads. To really enjoy, you need a track or a nice European road trip mit autobahn.If you have the boost pressure on display, you will quickly get the idea of how infrequently the whole system is being used. Cars that spend too much time idle can have issues with actuators and valves seizing. the turbo has two of everything that is expensive to maintain or replace - tubros, actuators, intercoolers - except for radiators, which it has three of.
However, they are utterly brilliant cars. If you can get a good one, they are very special things indeed, and there is not really any car quite like them.
On some of the 911 forums, the general opinion is that cars which have sat there hardly used seem to have more problems than those who have been used daily (and therefore may have higher mileage). These cars like being used.
I bought mine at 65k miles and the previous owner had just spent a lot at OPC having things such as brake discs/pads, starter motor, radiators, condensers, etc etc done. In the first 2 years of my ownership, covering 30,000 miles I only had 2 sensors go which cost £250. Year 3 I had clutch slave & clutch master go (£1000) and once the car got over 100k miles I decided to have a full inspection at an indy and replace anything which needed replacing. The engine/gearbox & turbos were all within new tolerances. Brake discs & pads needed replacing but they had lasted 40,000 miles which I thought was good going. Various cross over pipes/hoses (which whilst were still fine) were showing signs of wear so I had those replaced, suspension top mounts, rear coffin arms, coil packs, radiator housings (had rotted through) were replaced but in the main everything was fine. I even had Centre Gravity fully test the suspension (still within new tolerances apparently after 100k miles) and they said the underside of the car looked better than some they had seen with 25k miles on them.
I am now well into Year 4 and am still using the car as a daily, all year round. Other than the above maintenance items, running costs have been pretty good. A set of Michelin PS4S`s last me 25,000 miles, general servicing isnt expensive at an indy and insurance/tax etc have been no more than other more "ordinary" cars ive had.
I think the only reason to buy a very low mileage one would be if you were not really planning on using it, as they do have a "collectors" premium on their value. If you want a car you can drive then go for a higher mileage example. The key thing is to check what has already been replaced on the car. In my case, the previous owner footed a large bill at 50->60k miles which meant I have had very cheap motoring.
I bought mine at 65k miles and the previous owner had just spent a lot at OPC having things such as brake discs/pads, starter motor, radiators, condensers, etc etc done. In the first 2 years of my ownership, covering 30,000 miles I only had 2 sensors go which cost £250. Year 3 I had clutch slave & clutch master go (£1000) and once the car got over 100k miles I decided to have a full inspection at an indy and replace anything which needed replacing. The engine/gearbox & turbos were all within new tolerances. Brake discs & pads needed replacing but they had lasted 40,000 miles which I thought was good going. Various cross over pipes/hoses (which whilst were still fine) were showing signs of wear so I had those replaced, suspension top mounts, rear coffin arms, coil packs, radiator housings (had rotted through) were replaced but in the main everything was fine. I even had Centre Gravity fully test the suspension (still within new tolerances apparently after 100k miles) and they said the underside of the car looked better than some they had seen with 25k miles on them.
I am now well into Year 4 and am still using the car as a daily, all year round. Other than the above maintenance items, running costs have been pretty good. A set of Michelin PS4S`s last me 25,000 miles, general servicing isnt expensive at an indy and insurance/tax etc have been no more than other more "ordinary" cars ive had.
I think the only reason to buy a very low mileage one would be if you were not really planning on using it, as they do have a "collectors" premium on their value. If you want a car you can drive then go for a higher mileage example. The key thing is to check what has already been replaced on the car. In my case, the previous owner footed a large bill at 50->60k miles which meant I have had very cheap motoring.
Had a 997.1 turbo manual 2008
Bought in 2014 for £46.5k with 28k miles
Spent 2k getting it cosmetically right and another 2k adding leather interior parts
Sold in 2018 for £57k with 38k miles
In my 4 years car was serviced 5 times as i did it annually not every 20k - at 9E/RGA around £400 each + £200 for spark plugs twice
On top of that it had
new TPMS sensors £600
new starter motor £400
and a few other wear and tear items (about £200 per year)
890m Sachs uprated clutch £1000
2 rear tyres £500
great cars, but I would not spend 70k on one, get one like mine that has done 3-5k miles per year and properly serviced
Bought in 2014 for £46.5k with 28k miles
Spent 2k getting it cosmetically right and another 2k adding leather interior parts
Sold in 2018 for £57k with 38k miles
In my 4 years car was serviced 5 times as i did it annually not every 20k - at 9E/RGA around £400 each + £200 for spark plugs twice
On top of that it had
new TPMS sensors £600
new starter motor £400
and a few other wear and tear items (about £200 per year)
890m Sachs uprated clutch £1000
2 rear tyres £500
great cars, but I would not spend 70k on one, get one like mine that has done 3-5k miles per year and properly serviced
Edited by Adam B on Tuesday 12th November 12:05
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