advice needed buying first porsche/ boxster!!
Discussion
Ok guys help please,looking at a 3 owner 64K miles ,2006 2.7 boxster 987 this week,private sale.Any advice welcome.Thinking of the usual checks underneath ,all panels ,under arches ,all electrics work.My only concern is the engine unit,obviously check for oil from exhaust and coolant temp,oil filler cap gunk. Hpi check,disc condition and front rads.Having never look at a porsche before where does the temp gauge needle sit when running? any other tips are VERY,VERY welcome if exhaust black ,bad sign???
If it's a 2.7 you shouldn't worry too much about bore scoring / black exhaust. This engine isn't known for bore scoring - it could happen, but it's certainly not the main issue like it is on the 3.4 'S' engine. You may get smoke / steam from the exhaust on start up, it should clear quickly after driving off - as long as it clears it's nothing to worry about.
On a 2006 car you will almost certainly have the larger single row IMS bearing. Downside - you can't upgrade this one without splitting the crankcase. Upside - the later bearing has a much higher reliability than the one used from 2000(ish) to 2005, so shouldn't be a cause for much concern.
Usual things to check, you've got most of them - look for mayo on the inside of the oil filler cap. Listen for knocks / clunks from suspension, and check that all the electrics actually work. I'd also be minded to check for evidence of blocked body drains - for example, open hood half way and take a look at the two drains either side of the hood well - should be no sign of moisture lingering there. Give the radiators a good look over - they're prone to ingesting leaves and slowly rotting as the leaves hold moisture against them.
If you've not driven one before, expect to have to work the brake pedal quite hard. Not so hard that you're pushing against the back of the seat, but a firm shove is required. If in doubt, go for a full emergency stop on a clear road - pedal effort will seem high but the car should stop fast and straight.
There are plenty of people offering through inspections should you want one, but I'd check these points and drive the car first - no point in having an inspection on a car that's clearly a bit of a dog.
The temp needle usually sits bang in the middle (80) on mine. I think it's probably ECU controlled, and doesn't seem to move at all even if I'm in heavy traffic.
On a 2006 car you will almost certainly have the larger single row IMS bearing. Downside - you can't upgrade this one without splitting the crankcase. Upside - the later bearing has a much higher reliability than the one used from 2000(ish) to 2005, so shouldn't be a cause for much concern.
Usual things to check, you've got most of them - look for mayo on the inside of the oil filler cap. Listen for knocks / clunks from suspension, and check that all the electrics actually work. I'd also be minded to check for evidence of blocked body drains - for example, open hood half way and take a look at the two drains either side of the hood well - should be no sign of moisture lingering there. Give the radiators a good look over - they're prone to ingesting leaves and slowly rotting as the leaves hold moisture against them.
If you've not driven one before, expect to have to work the brake pedal quite hard. Not so hard that you're pushing against the back of the seat, but a firm shove is required. If in doubt, go for a full emergency stop on a clear road - pedal effort will seem high but the car should stop fast and straight.
There are plenty of people offering through inspections should you want one, but I'd check these points and drive the car first - no point in having an inspection on a car that's clearly a bit of a dog.
The temp needle usually sits bang in the middle (80) on mine. I think it's probably ECU controlled, and doesn't seem to move at all even if I'm in heavy traffic.
I'm currently looking for a Boxster too and the folllowing explained what I need to watch out for.
http://www.revolution-porsche.co.uk/buying-porsche...
http://www.revolution-porsche.co.uk/buying-porsche...
Edited by Bellatrix on Thursday 29th October 01:09
peter2704 said:
thanks for the replies,one other thing what should the engine sound like? by this I mean,not rattles or should any tapping be an injector sound.are they a quiet engine in general.Checked you tube vid's but they always sound coarse
peter
You may get a slight tappet rattle on start up if the engine's not run for a while, which should go pretty quickly. One other thing is that you'll probably notice with the hood up and lightish throttle is that the engine will sound like it's whining a bit. It's right behind you, and it's got a lot of gears, chains etc that you will hear - this is quite normal. You'll also find that the sound changes a fair bit when the variocam switches over as the revs increase. peter
They are all a bit noisy in my experience - was worried when I got my Cayman but have heard many many others including brand new cars and they are all similar.
One word of warning is sticking lifters - if my is left sat for a long time without use at first start up it sounds horrendous. I am told this is due to the oil draining from a hydraulic lifter - which can be fixed...at a price. I have found the easy fix is an Italian tune up - warm it, cane it, sorted!
There is also an odd noise at first start up - something to do with emissions control which makes the exhaust pop and bang ever so slightly. Again I was concerned the first time I heard it, but they are all the same!
One word of warning is sticking lifters - if my is left sat for a long time without use at first start up it sounds horrendous. I am told this is due to the oil draining from a hydraulic lifter - which can be fixed...at a price. I have found the easy fix is an Italian tune up - warm it, cane it, sorted!
There is also an odd noise at first start up - something to do with emissions control which makes the exhaust pop and bang ever so slightly. Again I was concerned the first time I heard it, but they are all the same!
peter2704 said:
Ok guys help please,looking at a 3 owner 64K miles ,2006 2.7 boxster 987 this week,private sale.Any advice welcome.Thinking of the usual checks underneath ,all panels ,under arches ,all electrics work.My only concern is the engine unit,obviously check for oil from exhaust and coolant temp,oil filler cap gunk. Hpi check,disc condition and front rads.Having never look at a porsche before where does the temp gauge needle sit when running? any other tips are VERY,VERY welcome if exhaust black ,bad sign???
NO experience with the newer 2.7l engines but the one in my 2002 Boxster has over 295K miles and still runs like a champ.My advice regarding a used car is to visit the car cold and with the A/C off turn on the key and makes sure all warning lights come on then go off when you start the engine and it runs.
Listen to the engine for any scary noises. The engine may emit a bit of clatter/clickity clack at cold start but this is normal and should go away almost as soon as it appears.
Let the engine idle as you walk around the car looking the body panel paint condition, fits, etc. But keep an ear tuned to the engine for any scary noises.
Arrange for a test ride. 15 miles and the route chosen to allow the driver to demo the car as you intend to drive it. After the test ride back at the starting point then you take the car out as a driver and drive the same route, drive the the car the same way.
Among other things you want to make sure the engine fires up and runs good from cold through warm all the way to hot. That during a hard acceleration -- after the engine is up to temperature -- the engine pulls strongly and smoothly all the way to red line. And afterwards has a good smooth idle.
If you still like the car after the test ride and drive subject it to a good used car check out. Assume nothing works until you check that it does.
After all of the above if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for an agreeable sum then arrange for a PPI. Among other things this has the car in the air where a check can be made for any leak sign. The brake condition determined. Tire condition determined. Etc. The DME engine run time and over rev counters should be read and the PPI guy should go over these with you.
A bit of soot at the exhaust pipe outlets is normal. For every pound of gasoline the engine consumes it emits 19lbs of carbon and some of this is in the form of soot. Like I like to say: Soot happens.
The coolant temp gage is not a precise instrument. For my car the needle position ranges from at or nearly at the "180" hash mark -- this in cold weather -- to a couple of needle widths to the right of the hash mark in hot weather. In "real numbers" -- based on observing the engine coolant temperature using a data viewer connected to the OBD2 (EOBD2 in your case) port connector -- the coolant temperature can range from around 185F driving in cold weather to 226F under extreme hot weather operating conditions. Even under the most extreme hot weather or hard running situations I've never seen the temperature go above 226F.
This is based on my 2002 Boxster. I dare say the newer models might manifest a bit less variability in coolant temperature.
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