Locking Wheel Nut Failure

[ATM]

Hello

I swapped my wheels last night and the Locking Wheel Nut Key adapter has failed. Is this normal for a Porsche?

I'm trying to decide if I should replace with new lockers or just get bolts.

Thanks

[ATM]

I bought a new set. It seems that my old key had slipped inside the outer slightly. So the inner section was protruding on the inside less than it should. Probably due to impact/s of some sort. This meant the key was interfacing with the nut less than it should. This led to the failure. Not sure if anyone is interested but it is worth checking yours. A key failure will lead to the nuts being tricky to remove as were mine.

[DJMC]

ATM said:

I bought a new set.

Bought?

Car not under warranty? Can't imagine the new set was cheap.

I'd be complaining...

Who... me!?

[ATM]

DJMC said:

ATM said:

I bought a new set.

Bought?

Car not under warranty? Can't imagine the new set was cheap.

I'd be complaining...

Who... me!?

12 reg

[DJMC]

ATM said:

12 reg

Statute of limitations goes back 6 years, so you're in with a chance!

It's not as if it has any moving parts so I'd be speaking to my OPC.

[Klippie]

If they are the same quality as VW locking wheel bolts and nuts they would be pretty piss poor.

[Wilmslowboy]

failed on my Mrs Cayenne .... new locking nut required..only £14 but had to wait 6 weeks

[ChrisW.]

It's a particular problem on the trackday recommended torque settings of 120 ft lbs ...

I use a small hammer to check that the locking part is properly seated, I'm careful to keep the wheel wrench at the correct angle to keep the locking nut fully engaged --- and then I tap it loose form the bolt once it's removed ...

It's not the best !

Cx.

[ATM]

ChrisW. said:

It's a particular problem on the trackday recommended torque settings of 120 ft lbs ...

I use a small hammer to check that the locking part is properly seated, I'm careful to keep the wheel wrench at the correct angle to keep the locking nut fully engaged --- and then I tap it loose form the bolt once it's removed ...

It's not the best !

Cx.

If I was going that hard I think I replace them with some standard hex nuts.

[Trev450]

ATM said:

ChrisW. said:

It's a particular problem on the trackday recommended torque settings of 120 ft lbs ...

I use a small hammer to check that the locking part is properly seated, I'm careful to keep the wheel wrench at the correct angle to keep the locking nut fully engaged --- and then I tap it loose form the bolt once it's removed ...

It's not the best !

Cx.

If I was going that hard I think I replace them with some standard hex nuts.

There is nothing fundamentally wrong with the locking nut and removal tool, but the tool is an interference fit and needs to be located firmly before attempting to remove the nut as mentioned above.

[nomank]

Wilmslowboy said:

failed on my Mrs Cayenne .... new locking nut required..only £14 but had to wait 6 weeks

Failed on mine too and wait time for me was 3 weeks. Parts department noted that 4 other folk were also waiting. Was told that my swapping of wheels (summer-winter) each year was "over use" of them. Hmmm.

[edc]

ChrisW. said:

It's a particular problem on the trackday recommended torque settings of 120 ft lbs ...

I use a small hammer to check that the locking part is properly seated, I'm careful to keep the wheel wrench at the correct angle to keep the locking nut fully engaged --- and then I tap it loose form the bolt once it's removed ...

It's not the best !

Cx.

I guess nobody is going to steal the wheels as you are hammering around the track so why not use normal bolts if you are re-torqueing at track?

[ChrisW.]

edc said:

I guess nobody is going to steal the wheels as you are hammering around the track so why not use normal bolts if you are re-torqueing at track?

That is exactly what I have done ...

[stuartmcg]

My 14 plate locking nut failed with the dealer when the wheel went in for refurb due to a paint issue. They sent a new one out via the post.

[snotrag]

Odd question but is it normal to only have locking nuts on the rear, not the fronts? (On a 986 actually, but still...) I wondered if it was due to the rears being more 'valuable' to the types likely to pinch them, but then again could be rubbish.

[eybic]

I can recommend McGuard if you need to buy replacements. I've not had a set fail and they seem much stronger than most others.

[boxsey]

snotrag said:

Odd question but is it normal to only have locking nuts on the rear, not the fronts? (On a 986 actually, but still...) I wondered if it was due to the rears being more 'valuable' to the types likely to pinch them, but then again could be rubbish.

More likely that the ones on the front had corroded so badly that the owner replaced them with normal bolts. By the time my old 986 got to 10 years old I had replaced most of the original bolts because the collars were literally turning to powder. The car was used in all weathers so the bolts got exposed to lots of rain and winter salt.