Cayman 718S Running in
Discussion
Hi,
I am due to take delivery of a Cayman 718s in early December and wondered what the running in routine and mileage was as I am only going to be using it at weekend. Obviously it is common sense to allow the engine to warm up and not to give it full revs and gradually build up rev range.
I tried to search on the internet but could not find the 718 manual on line.
I am due to take delivery of a Cayman 718s in early December and wondered what the running in routine and mileage was as I am only going to be using it at weekend. Obviously it is common sense to allow the engine to warm up and not to give it full revs and gradually build up rev range.
I tried to search on the internet but could not find the 718 manual on line.
Porsche always used to go for a pretty restrictive run-in period - not sure if it's still the case. 4000rpm limit for the first 2000 miles. Avoid short journeys and frequent cold starts. Don't labour the engine. Avoid high revs until full warmed up.
Anyone with a 718 Boxster/Boxster S? Pretty sure it will be the same.
Liam
Anyone with a 718 Boxster/Boxster S? Pretty sure it will be the same.
Liam
LiamH66 said:
Porsche always used to go for a pretty restrictive run-in period - not sure if it's still the case. 4000rpm limit for the first 2000 miles. Avoid short journeys and frequent cold starts. Don't labour the engine. Avoid high revs until full warmed up.
Anyone with a 718 Boxster/Boxster S? Pretty sure it will be the same.
Liam
Given the midrange go of the 718 that shouldn't prove too arduous unless you do a very small mileage.Anyone with a 718 Boxster/Boxster S? Pretty sure it will be the same.
Liam
Handbook say 4000rpm but OPC said 5000. I'm trying to keep under 4000 but I did accidentally hit 6500 when I forgot the PDK was in sport mode.
Also the first service is 2 years or 20000 miles. Don't you think this is too long considering it includes the running in period? I might get an oil and filter change after 3000 miles, or am I being paranoid?
Also the first service is 2 years or 20000 miles. Don't you think this is too long considering it includes the running in period? I might get an oil and filter change after 3000 miles, or am I being paranoid?
Read this first:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then Grip it and Rip it!
Modern engines don't need babying - you'll end up with a significantly stronger and healthier engine if you follow the advice in the above link.
Don't be a pussy.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then Grip it and Rip it!
Modern engines don't need babying - you'll end up with a significantly stronger and healthier engine if you follow the advice in the above link.
Don't be a pussy.
castroses said:
Read this first:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then Grip it and Rip it!
Modern engines don't need babying - you'll end up with a significantly stronger and healthier engine if you follow the advice in the above link.
Don't be a pussy.
Given that pretty much all manufacturers recommendations are rather woolly, they might be categorised as "Don't cane in the early miles" I'd be reluctant to take a diametrically opposed stance. If it really was a good idea to give an early spanking, I'd expect manufactures to do it as part of their post bill shakedown process. (Yes, I know that some race engines are run in in a few minutes. Our race kart engines were "run in" in fifteen minutes- but their rebuild times were measured in single digit figures, so hardly representative). http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then Grip it and Rip it!
Modern engines don't need babying - you'll end up with a significantly stronger and healthier engine if you follow the advice in the above link.
Don't be a pussy.
castroses said:
Read this first:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then Grip it and Rip it!
Modern engines don't need babying - you'll end up with a significantly stronger and healthier engine if you follow the advice in the above link.
Don't be a pussy.
If the author knows as much about engines as page formatting I'd recommend doing the opposite of whatever he advises.http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then Grip it and Rip it!
Modern engines don't need babying - you'll end up with a significantly stronger and healthier engine if you follow the advice in the above link.
Don't be a pussy.
FourPotPorsche said:
No worries. It's the Good To Know app for the iPad/iPhone developed for Porsche Cars North America. The UK version does not seem to exist but I trust most things in it apply equally to UK spec cars...but don't take that as a fact 
Just edited my orignal post to GTK..sorry about that.
Thanks for the tip just loaded the app onto my iPad, will be very useful- just need the car now!
Just edited my orignal post to GTK..sorry about that.
I know the 3.4 is different from the turbo flat four but I followed the running in advice to the letter. In 18k miles the engine has used less than 300ml of oil and is sweet as a nut. I did do over 250 miles on the first day in one go mind. After the running in I use the full range of revs when the oil temperature is above 95 degrees and less than 4K and 50% throttle before this. Treat the engine with respect and enjoy an epic car
bcr5784 said:
Given that pretty much all manufacturers recommendations are rather woolly, they might be categorised as "Don't cane in the early miles" I'd be reluctant to take a diametrically opposed stance. If it really was a good idea to give an early spanking, I'd expect manufactures to do it as part of their post bill shakedown process. (Yes, I know that some race engines are run in in a few minutes. Our race kart engines were "run in" in fifteen minutes- but their rebuild times were measured in single digit figures, so hardly representative).
My own race kart engines get 3 x 15 minute sessions minimum, I prefer 4, but it's ever so ever so boring. I know others run them in quicker, but I talked to the manufacturer, and they have examined engines at various stages of running in, and they recommend this as a method that works. I know others run in really fast, would love to be in a class that can run-in in 15 minutes, and I only run 8 hours between rebuilds!I've run in a LOT of car engines in, generally on the dyno. Bigger engines can take 4-6 hours, most medium size 4 cylinders will run in in 4 hours, some pure race engines "have to" have the rings sealed by 90 minutes because if you run them longer you're putting unnecessary hours on the rest of the engine. There are some tricks of the trade, and ways of measuring how well the engine has run in that can't really be used on the road.
When manufacturers give running in advice, it's generally more sound than advice on generalist engine websites. If running in was obsolete, Porsche would surely say so. The advice given on the website linked to will work for some engines, particularly those with small cylinders, thin rings, and big relative main and big-end bearing areas. I would not recommend it unless I had tried it on the engine in question, and immediately after checked the engine for ring sealing, bearing glaze, and any other consequences of trying to run in much too fast.
Don't cane it when it's new is really good advice. Keep the revs down, especially when cold, is really good advice. Some engines I've seen that have failed to run in nicely have been run very, very gently. This is a mistake, as the rings need some cylinder pressure to bed them against the bore. Keep the revs down, but use up to half throttle, even more once the engine is warm. Vary the engine speed, but if Porsche say under 4000rpm for the first 1800 miles, I'll definitely be staying under that for the first 1000 miles, and slowly increasing the revs over the next 800. Porsche's advice will be given to make sure you have a better engine once it's fully run in - I reckon that's worth being patient for.
Liam
LiamH66 said:
bcr5784 said:
Some engines I've seen that have failed to run in nicely have been run very, very gently. This is a mistake, as the rings need some cylinder pressure to bed them against the bore.
Liam
Same as what is said in the site!Liam
But if some of the other posters above want to baby them in, that's their prerogative. They'll be the ones using oil through the life of their engines.
Rip them from new - within sensible limits - is the way to break in any modern high performance engine. Haters always gonna hate though.....
Sparkyhd said:
castroses said:
Read this first:
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then Grip it and Rip it!
Modern engines don't need babying - you'll end up with a significantly stronger and healthier engine if you follow the advice in the above link.
Don't be a pussy.
If the author knows as much about engines as page formatting I'd recommend doing the opposite of whatever he advises.http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then Grip it and Rip it!
Modern engines don't need babying - you'll end up with a significantly stronger and healthier engine if you follow the advice in the above link.
Don't be a pussy.
Is he a professional web developer or an engine mechanic?
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Mobil 1 is a tricky area. It's good, but it's not good for running in. Hence the long running in time. 500 miles on an oil that encourages a little more engine wear would be better, but no-one fancies the first service being at 500 miles anymore, and if someone decided to drive hard on such an oil there would be warranty claims.The recommendation of moving away immediately from a cold start is not for emissions reasons, it's because running a cold engine with no load means it lakes longer to warm up. Driving gently is kindest to the engine.
I'm not even sure it's about longevity - I think it's about making the engine the best it can be when run in. Lower oil consumption, more power, and everything else in the drivetrain will work better if it has had a chance to settle in.
Liam
castroses said:
Same as what is said in the site!
But if some of the other posters above want to baby them in, that's their prerogative. They'll be the ones using oil through the life of their engines.
Rip them from new - within sensible limits - is the way to break in any modern high performance engine. Haters always gonna hate though.....
I had another look at that site. He's a Yamaha R6 specialist by the look of it, and modern high speed motorcycle engines deal amazingly well with short run-in times (and hate being run on very light load in early life). There is no such thing as any modern high performance engine, some will deal with higher loads early in their life, some will need a longer break in time. I'm honestly not a "hater", just someone with experience of getting it right, and occasionally wrong.But if some of the other posters above want to baby them in, that's their prerogative. They'll be the ones using oil through the life of their engines.
Rip them from new - within sensible limits - is the way to break in any modern high performance engine. Haters always gonna hate though.....
Lots of good stuff on that site, but too much of a generalisation to apply to every recently designed engine.
Liam
The Mean Machine said:
Hi,
I am due to take delivery of a Cayman 718s in early December and wondered what the running in routine and mileage was as I am only going to be using it at weekend. Obviously it is common sense to allow the engine to warm up and not to give it full revs and gradually build up rev range.
I tried to search on the internet but could not find the 718 manual on line.
When I visited the BMW factory in Munich, as cars come off production line they are sprayed @ high pressure with water, then go onto a rolling road & taken to max in ALL gears, when I queried this I was told if it's going to leak & if anything is wrong it will be flagged up now, so when you get your car no need to run in..............is Porsche similar ( not visited factory )I am due to take delivery of a Cayman 718s in early December and wondered what the running in routine and mileage was as I am only going to be using it at weekend. Obviously it is common sense to allow the engine to warm up and not to give it full revs and gradually build up rev range.
I tried to search on the internet but could not find the 718 manual on line.
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