Bit of corrosion in arches
Discussion
The bottom rear of my front arches (987.1) have got corrosion, one bit is about half the size of a 5p and several smaller spots
It on the inside of the arch and the front of the side skirt
I went to a classic car resto place that was recommended by my Indi specialist, they had x2 Aston Vantages in there (the old one)
The guy said that he could just do the edges in question but that would leave a line (not overly bothered) but also that if any corrosion had 'spidered' into the metal / beyond the edge etc, the corrosion could come back in no time
Also inside the wing if you take off the headlights, on at least one side there is a lot of surface corrosion that he said would need to be brushed off & treated with a rust inhibiting paint
Quoted £1000 for the lot including stripping the arches back to base, painting, blending in & laquering the wings & doors
I will get a second opinion but would prefer to do it properly
I am not against having a go at some of it like the bit inside the wongs - it's not visible so how hard can it be although I haven't a clue what I'm doing to be fair
Any thoughts?
It on the inside of the arch and the front of the side skirt
I went to a classic car resto place that was recommended by my Indi specialist, they had x2 Aston Vantages in there (the old one)
The guy said that he could just do the edges in question but that would leave a line (not overly bothered) but also that if any corrosion had 'spidered' into the metal / beyond the edge etc, the corrosion could come back in no time
Also inside the wing if you take off the headlights, on at least one side there is a lot of surface corrosion that he said would need to be brushed off & treated with a rust inhibiting paint
Quoted £1000 for the lot including stripping the arches back to base, painting, blending in & laquering the wings & doors
I will get a second opinion but would prefer to do it properly
I am not against having a go at some of it like the bit inside the wongs - it's not visible so how hard can it be although I haven't a clue what I'm doing to be fair
Any thoughts?
Hi
The metal on modern porsches seems to be pretty good and so must corrosion tends to be surface rust only (usually from stone chips or sodden mud collecting on the arch lips).
If it were me, I'd take out the arch liners, get your head in there, clean up the rust (a wire brush or rough sand paper), and then go over it with por15. You could then take it to a bodyshop for the visible metal... Although £1000 sounds a bit pricey
The metal on modern porsches seems to be pretty good and so must corrosion tends to be surface rust only (usually from stone chips or sodden mud collecting on the arch lips).
If it were me, I'd take out the arch liners, get your head in there, clean up the rust (a wire brush or rough sand paper), and then go over it with por15. You could then take it to a bodyshop for the visible metal... Although £1000 sounds a bit pricey
Common place. Mine has had this, I’ve got two more stone chips I need to sort. It’s a regular occurrence so you end up getting used to touching up. I did use a body shop to touch up the stone chips in that area when I first got it but I realised I could probably do it myself and so now touch up as matter of course as the edges of the arches are always slightly peppered with stone dings on Porsches. Also the leading edge of the sill is a rough finish anyway so it’s pointless paying a bodyshop to spray that, you can touch it up yourself and it would look the same. I try and avoid anything that involves blowing panels in as you can end up with a mismatch that looks worse than a tiny touch up.
Personally I’d do that myself as bodyshops tend to take back to metal and charge a lot for touching in or spraying but aren’t necessarily great at treating or preventing rust.
If you do it yourself you can treat the area with some rust killer like some from Bilthamber then touch in yourself. Mine also has the area on the little shelf behind the headlight unit that you mention. What looks like rust is often galvanic dust where the galvanising is sacrificing itself but it’s not necessarily got to brown rust, yet. I’d personally be inclined also try this area yourself as it’s out of sight. Sand back the areas to see if it’s actually corrosion in the metal and then treat with rust killer. You could then use a zinc primer as a base and paint touch up paint over the top. I’ve got a bunch of different stuff from Bilthamber to treat and prep rust that I aren’t got round to using yet. Prob is some of the products need a few days to sit on the metal so it’s a time thing.
Personally I’d do that myself as bodyshops tend to take back to metal and charge a lot for touching in or spraying but aren’t necessarily great at treating or preventing rust.
If you do it yourself you can treat the area with some rust killer like some from Bilthamber then touch in yourself. Mine also has the area on the little shelf behind the headlight unit that you mention. What looks like rust is often galvanic dust where the galvanising is sacrificing itself but it’s not necessarily got to brown rust, yet. I’d personally be inclined also try this area yourself as it’s out of sight. Sand back the areas to see if it’s actually corrosion in the metal and then treat with rust killer. You could then use a zinc primer as a base and paint touch up paint over the top. I’ve got a bunch of different stuff from Bilthamber to treat and prep rust that I aren’t got round to using yet. Prob is some of the products need a few days to sit on the metal so it’s a time thing.
Edited by Buggyjam on Sunday 2nd September 17:25
Mm. That is a bit more extensive than I had envisioned. Looks like the gravel rash has gone a long time without being touched in and the stones have worn away the galvanise.
My thoughts. You “could” treat both areas yourself, certainly get the rust back and treated. The issue is those arches are too extensive to touch up with a stick. You could treat the rust yourself and take to the bodyshop for the spraying. Certainly I’d have a go at the interior section behind the headlight myself. The main issue is It looks rusted through in some areas and that might make accessing the underneath of that flat section difficult unless you removed the bumper. Shine a light up underneath to see if it’s rusted through.
There’s good guides on how to do it (properly). The only real way is cutting out steel. But in its place for instance, the interior section you can wire brush and take heavy grit wet and dry. You need to get all the rust you can. You can then apply something like Deox gel and let it sit for a few days. That gets small rust areas in the micro pits that’s always nearly impossible to get with a brush. The trick is once you remove the treatment, don’t hang about on the next stage. as the steel will start micro corrosion straight away which you don’t want to paint over. Once you’ve removed the rust killer, sand again for a good key then use a zinc primer. Follow the instructions on how thick. How many coats. Once primed, top coat with touch up.
Those arches I’d on the face of it try treating it myself, prime with a non porous primer then hand to a body shop. The big but on the arches is the corrosion looks like it extends into the gap between the sill and wing and removing the corrosion effectively would be a problem. You’d also need to remove the arch liners and attack corrosion that had formed on the rear face and corners of the sill leading edge. There’s no point not getting it all as it will come back quickly..
If it’s all sounding a bit daunting then go with the body shop. I’ve had varied experiences of bodyshops and rust treatment. Many don’t do it properly as they don’t have the time and it’s not really their thing. The body shop approach is to repalce panels, or sand and prime then tell you if it comes back it’s not covered. A grand sounds a little too steep to me, but then if you find a place that will do it right then it will cost as it takes time. Just my experience.
Sorry for the war and peace post
My thoughts. You “could” treat both areas yourself, certainly get the rust back and treated. The issue is those arches are too extensive to touch up with a stick. You could treat the rust yourself and take to the bodyshop for the spraying. Certainly I’d have a go at the interior section behind the headlight myself. The main issue is It looks rusted through in some areas and that might make accessing the underneath of that flat section difficult unless you removed the bumper. Shine a light up underneath to see if it’s rusted through.
There’s good guides on how to do it (properly). The only real way is cutting out steel. But in its place for instance, the interior section you can wire brush and take heavy grit wet and dry. You need to get all the rust you can. You can then apply something like Deox gel and let it sit for a few days. That gets small rust areas in the micro pits that’s always nearly impossible to get with a brush. The trick is once you remove the treatment, don’t hang about on the next stage. as the steel will start micro corrosion straight away which you don’t want to paint over. Once you’ve removed the rust killer, sand again for a good key then use a zinc primer. Follow the instructions on how thick. How many coats. Once primed, top coat with touch up.
Those arches I’d on the face of it try treating it myself, prime with a non porous primer then hand to a body shop. The big but on the arches is the corrosion looks like it extends into the gap between the sill and wing and removing the corrosion effectively would be a problem. You’d also need to remove the arch liners and attack corrosion that had formed on the rear face and corners of the sill leading edge. There’s no point not getting it all as it will come back quickly..
If it’s all sounding a bit daunting then go with the body shop. I’ve had varied experiences of bodyshops and rust treatment. Many don’t do it properly as they don’t have the time and it’s not really their thing. The body shop approach is to repalce panels, or sand and prime then tell you if it comes back it’s not covered. A grand sounds a little too steep to me, but then if you find a place that will do it right then it will cost as it takes time. Just my experience.
Sorry for the war and peace post
Edited by Buggyjam on Sunday 2nd September 21:16
Buggyjam said:
Mm. That is a bit more extensive than I had envisioned. Looks like the gravel rash has gone a long time without being touched in and the stones have worn away the galvanise.
My thoughts. You “could” treat both areas yourself, certainly get the rust back and treated. The issue is those arches are too extensive to touch up with a stick. You could treat the rust yourself and take to the bodyshop for the spraying. Certainly I’d have a go at the interior section behind the headlight myself. The main issue is It looks rusted through in some areas and that might make accessing the underneath of that flat section difficult unless you removed the bumper. Shine a light up underneath to see if it’s rusted through.
There’s good guides on how to do it (properly). The only real way is cutting out steel. But in its place for instance, the interior section you can wire brush and take heavy grit wet and dry. You need to get all the rust you can. You can then apply something like Deox gel and let it sit for a few days. That gets small rust areas in the micro pits that’s always nearly impossible to get with a brush. The trick is once you remove the treatment, don’t hang about on the next stage. as the steel will start micro corrosion straight away which you don’t want to paint over. Once you’ve removed the rust killer, sand again for a good key then use a zinc primer. Follow the instructions on how thick. How many coats. Once primed, top coat with touch up.
Those arches I’d on the face of it try treating it myself, prime with a non porous primer then hand to a body shop. The big but on the arches is the corrosion looks like it extends into the gap between the sill and wing and removing the corrosion effectively would be a problem. You’d also need to remove the arch liners and attack corrosion that had formed on the rear face and corners of the sill leading edge. There’s no point not getting it all as it will come back quickly..
If it’s all sounding a bit daunting then go with the body shop. I’ve had varied experiences of bodyshops and rust treatment. Many don’t do it properly as they don’t have the time and it’s not really their thing. The body shop approach is to repalce panels, or sand and prime then tell you if it comes back it’s not covered. A grand sounds a little too steep to me, but then if you find a place that will do it right then it will cost as it takes time. Just my experience.
Sorry for the war and peace post
Thanks so much for this very informative post - I am swinging towards getting it done professionally but this will help me talk to them about the workMy thoughts. You “could” treat both areas yourself, certainly get the rust back and treated. The issue is those arches are too extensive to touch up with a stick. You could treat the rust yourself and take to the bodyshop for the spraying. Certainly I’d have a go at the interior section behind the headlight myself. The main issue is It looks rusted through in some areas and that might make accessing the underneath of that flat section difficult unless you removed the bumper. Shine a light up underneath to see if it’s rusted through.
There’s good guides on how to do it (properly). The only real way is cutting out steel. But in its place for instance, the interior section you can wire brush and take heavy grit wet and dry. You need to get all the rust you can. You can then apply something like Deox gel and let it sit for a few days. That gets small rust areas in the micro pits that’s always nearly impossible to get with a brush. The trick is once you remove the treatment, don’t hang about on the next stage. as the steel will start micro corrosion straight away which you don’t want to paint over. Once you’ve removed the rust killer, sand again for a good key then use a zinc primer. Follow the instructions on how thick. How many coats. Once primed, top coat with touch up.
Those arches I’d on the face of it try treating it myself, prime with a non porous primer then hand to a body shop. The big but on the arches is the corrosion looks like it extends into the gap between the sill and wing and removing the corrosion effectively would be a problem. You’d also need to remove the arch liners and attack corrosion that had formed on the rear face and corners of the sill leading edge. There’s no point not getting it all as it will come back quickly..
If it’s all sounding a bit daunting then go with the body shop. I’ve had varied experiences of bodyshops and rust treatment. Many don’t do it properly as they don’t have the time and it’s not really their thing. The body shop approach is to repalce panels, or sand and prime then tell you if it comes back it’s not covered. A grand sounds a little too steep to me, but then if you find a place that will do it right then it will cost as it takes time. Just my experience.
Sorry for the war and peace post
Edited by Buggyjam on Sunday 2nd September 21:16
The place that quoted for me is not so much a bodyshop but a classic car restoration place that had some 1970 Astons in so I'd hope they could do a good job - they were recomended to me by GT One in Chertsey it is Motomarque - http://www.motomarque.com/
They do a lot of bare metal resprays and restoration of extremely valuable cars
Also the other place I go is Northway in Reading and they recommended Riviera Autobody near Oxford http://www.rivieraautobody.co.uk/ who again do full restores on classics
I feel that a place like this is better to do the proper job rather than a standard accident repair bodyshop
jakesmith said:
Thanks so much for this very informative post - I am swinging towards getting it done professionally but this will help me talk to them about the work
The place that quoted for me is not so much a bodyshop but a classic car restoration place that had some 1970 Astons in so I'd hope they could do a good job - they were recomended to me by GT One in Chertsey it is Motomarque - http://www.motomarque.com/
They do a lot of bare metal resprays and restoration of extremely valuable cars
Also the other place I go is Northway in Reading and they recommended Riviera Autobody near Oxford http://www.rivieraautobody.co.uk/ who again do full restores on classics
I feel that a place like this is better to do the proper job rather than a standard accident repair bodyshop
No worries. I think given the area and issues with getting it all that’s a good approach. See what these places say. Once you have it fixed keep an eye out for stone chips in that prone spot when you clean the car and touch them in. Once the bodyshop sand the area back to treat the areas the galvanise will be taken off or at least compromised (its only a thin layer) so you have to keep future areas of bare metal that have been sanded covered up from the elements. The place that quoted for me is not so much a bodyshop but a classic car restoration place that had some 1970 Astons in so I'd hope they could do a good job - they were recomended to me by GT One in Chertsey it is Motomarque - http://www.motomarque.com/
They do a lot of bare metal resprays and restoration of extremely valuable cars
Also the other place I go is Northway in Reading and they recommended Riviera Autobody near Oxford http://www.rivieraautobody.co.uk/ who again do full restores on classics
I feel that a place like this is better to do the proper job rather than a standard accident repair bodyshop
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