981 CGTS When will it loosen up
Discussion
In Nov 2018 I traded my 2014, 23000 mile 981 BGTS (PDK) for a 2015, 1900 mile 981 CGTS (PDK). I know the answer is in the above detail but the CGTS now with just 3000 miles is still positively lethargic at 5000rpm plus compared to the Boxster and strangely slightly worse on fuel consumption. The Boxster did sound a little more free on tickover after a run whereas the Cayman is quiet no whirring ticking or tapping. The Cayman has its correct service history and I insisted on an oil service at point of purchase to ensure all was good due to little use.
It’s a fantastic drive, x73, LWB’s and PTV but when will it really fly?
Thanks for reading,
Tim
It’s a fantastic drive, x73, LWB’s and PTV but when will it really fly?
Thanks for reading,
Tim
Nearly every Porsche I've owned has improved with mileage.
Some people say that the synthetic oils, and over judicious running-in, can delay the break-in period. In fact, I know some race engineers who claim the best performing race engines undergo very limited running-in with mineral oils.
Some people say that the synthetic oils, and over judicious running-in, can delay the break-in period. In fact, I know some race engineers who claim the best performing race engines undergo very limited running-in with mineral oils.
Koln-RS said:
Nearly every Porsche I've owned has improved with mileage.
Some people say that the synthetic oils, and over judicious running-in, can delay the break-in period. In fact, I know some race engineers who claim the best performing race engines undergo very limited running-in with mineral oils.
Yup non Porsche but one of my engines was built, ran under light load for 100 miles, mineral oil swapped out, ran a for 300 miles, mineral oil dumped, regular oil in, 500hp 9500rpm........happy days. Some people say that the synthetic oils, and over judicious running-in, can delay the break-in period. In fact, I know some race engineers who claim the best performing race engines undergo very limited running-in with mineral oils.
Cant really comment on the GTS, only ever driven mine and it feels fine.
SennaCGTS said:
In Nov 2018 I traded my 2014, 23000 mile 981 BGTS (PDK) for a 2015, 1900 mile 981 CGTS (PDK). I know the answer is in the above detail but the CGTS now with just 3000 miles is still positively lethargic at 5000rpm plus compared to the Boxster and strangely slightly worse on fuel consumption. The Boxster did sound a little more free on tickover after a run whereas the Cayman is quiet no whirring ticking or tapping. The Cayman has its correct service history and I insisted on an oil service at point of purchase to ensure all was good due to little use.
It’s a fantastic drive, x73, LWB’s and PTV but when will it really fly?
Thanks for reading,
Tim
Drive it more - and probably a lot harder.... have you done a launch control?... as the Engine ECU and PDK ECU are somewhat adaptive.It’s a fantastic drive, x73, LWB’s and PTV but when will it really fly?
Thanks for reading,
Tim
You're comparing a difference of basically 20K miles of usage.
thrash it, , don't do launch control that's bad advice lol.
but 99% people cannot run in cars, and with dfi you end up with a soot lip in the liners etc if some one went 1800 miles at 4k !!!
or worst still never driven it hard or it never gets hot. The pistons now are trying to goto places they have never seen before :-)
it can take 5k now days to be very free, but if it's been run in poorly you will have to get the pistons to run past this lip/ridge created by bad running in.
IE drive it hard when hot and push those pistons where they have never been before, it might take another 2k miles now to cure the issue already done.
I have no idea why people or Porsche say run in at 4k for 1800 miles, it must be the 2nd worse thing you can do bar labouring !
when you push on and every thing gets hot and the engines doing 8k revs things expand and stretch pistons move up the liners more than they did at 4k revs and cold., cars driven by Women and Nancy boys who follow the rule book, make for bad engines if treated like this for 20k miles, you will have one lazy engine :-( at 3k it's saveable :-)
but 99% people cannot run in cars, and with dfi you end up with a soot lip in the liners etc if some one went 1800 miles at 4k !!!
or worst still never driven it hard or it never gets hot. The pistons now are trying to goto places they have never seen before :-)
it can take 5k now days to be very free, but if it's been run in poorly you will have to get the pistons to run past this lip/ridge created by bad running in.
IE drive it hard when hot and push those pistons where they have never been before, it might take another 2k miles now to cure the issue already done.
I have no idea why people or Porsche say run in at 4k for 1800 miles, it must be the 2nd worse thing you can do bar labouring !
when you push on and every thing gets hot and the engines doing 8k revs things expand and stretch pistons move up the liners more than they did at 4k revs and cold., cars driven by Women and Nancy boys who follow the rule book, make for bad engines if treated like this for 20k miles, you will have one lazy engine :-( at 3k it's saveable :-)
I have run in 5 new porsche engines and they do get better with age loosening up at about 5/6k miles and carry on getting better,this is also true of our little eco boost fiesta it was horrible when new but now at 11k miles it's like a different engine.
When engine oil up to temperature ie 90*+ and road conditions allow take it up and down the gearbox at or near redline commonly known as an Italian tune up, if driving round town keep in very low gears in manual mode ie 1st and 2nd to many autos end up driving in 4th/5th at 30 mph which ain't good for the engine
Trick is don't be afraid to spank it and often!
Before stretching it’s legs just passing a bit of advice I was given. Especially as it’s new with tight tolerances. Well not new, just no miles on it.
In absence of temp readings for all the various components, Hartech told me In winter give a good 25-30 mins normal driving to warm everything gently to working temp before exercising
In absence of temp readings for all the various components, Hartech told me In winter give a good 25-30 mins normal driving to warm everything gently to working temp before exercising
Edited by Buggyjam on Saturday 2nd February 11:16
Definitely noted a bump in performance after 6k m and now after 4th yr service and 8.7k m feels even more angry and torquey (not turkey!).
X73 and bucket here. Nirvana.
https://mobile.twitter.com/ross_rbt/status/1089542...
Glad I didn’t sold it last year.
X73 and bucket here. Nirvana.
https://mobile.twitter.com/ross_rbt/status/1089542...
Glad I didn’t sold it last year.
Buggyjam said:
Before stretching it’s legs just passing a bit of advice I was given. Especially as it’s new with tight tolerances. Well not new, just no miles on it.
In absence of temp readings for all the various components, Hartech told me In winter give a good 25-30 mins normal driving to warm everything gently to working temp before exercising
Hence I pointed out pay attention to the oil temperature and not the coolant, it does take a while to get up to 90*c+ way later than the coolant does.In absence of temp readings for all the various components, Hartech told me In winter give a good 25-30 mins normal driving to warm everything gently to working temp before exercising
Edited by Buggyjam on Saturday 2nd February 11:16
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