Educate me on waxoil/ preventative measures.

[Pesty]

Dear all.

In the interest of preserving my 964 is there anything I should be spraying/ doing underneath?

I've heard people talk of waxoil I know it's galvanised but a little extra protection won't hurt.

Cheers

[uktrailmonster]

Waxoyl is a good idea, but the underbody needs to be spotlessly clean before you apply it otherwise you just trap in all the muck.
A bit like shovelling st, it's one of those jobs you're better off paying someone to do for you!

[Geneve]

As above, you need to start with a clean underside - so bumpers and wheel arch liners removed, then a light steam clean, dry out, followed by waxoyl. Definitely worthwhile.

[S1MMA]

Who would you guys recommend to do this? Thinking about it for my GT3

[rlw]

Waxoyl is not a good idea. There are newer, better, lighter treatments out there which last longer,so do a bit of research first. Practical Classics did a long term test of these and revealed the results a year or so ago and Waxoyl was not top 5 even.

I had the arches of my CLK done with one of the top products on the same basis as you are looking to treat your car. I will see if I still have the magazine.

Edited by rlw on Wednesday 3rd September 14:30

[mark.c]

Google Bilth Hamber, really good stuff and a leap forward over waxoyl. I've just sunk 6 tins into my old E12 M535i and 993.

[Pesty]

rlw said:

Waxoyl is not a good idea. There are newer, better, lighter treatments out there which last longer,so do a bit of research first. Practical Classics did a long term test of these and revealed the results a year or so ago and Waxoyl was not top 5 even.

I had the arches of my CLK done with one of the top products on the same basis as you are looking to treat your car. I will see if I still have the magazine.

Edited by rlw on Wednesday 3rd September 14:30

Thanks would be interesting.

Will look up bilth hamber

Also thinking it may be a good idea to get somebody to do it. Assumed you just sprayed it on and went for a cuppa.

[Pesty]

mark.c said:

Google Bilth Hamber, really good stuff and a leap forward over waxoyl. I've just sunk 6 tins into my old E12 M535i and 993.

These two look good.

http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50


This one is clear so answers another question as rear wheel arches are blue. Also says ok for suspension.

http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-uc

[nxi20]

I used a 500ml can of Dinitrol brown underbody wax on the GT3 over 3 years ago. It's still there & working fine although I'll probably give it a top-up before winter comes around this year. Brilliant stuff. I also use the high-temp clear version to protect the engine block & gearbox. That needs re-applying every year.

http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/underbody-wax/din...

[adbett]

I use Dinitrol aerosol cans as well (ML 500?? from memory) for small areas on my car, haven't used them for large areas though

[uktrailmonster]

Pesty said:

Assumed you just sprayed it on and went for a cuppa.

You could do that, but it would be a waste of time. It's the pre-prep that's messy and time consuming. Definitely a job I'd gladly pay someone to do.
This guy did my precious 2.4S with clear Waxoyl (they now do Dinitrol too if you prefer) some years ago and was very thorough. It's worth a read of his website just to show what's really involved in doing the job properly. You'll see a lot of the work is in the preparation.

http://www.before-n-after.co.uk

Many classic Porsche garages (eg. Autofarm) also offer expensive underbody treatments (Dinitrol seems popular) but I'm not convinced it's worth paying their higher prices. It's worth a bit of research before going ahead as a bad job could be worse than doing nothing at all.

Edited by uktrailmonster on Thursday 4th September 11:19

[Ian_UK1]

If you're going to use Waxoyl, I'd stay away from the traditional black product. It can end-up looking like bitumen that's been deliberately trowelled-on to cover a rust issue. Reminds me of the thousands (millions?) of 1970s/80s cars that were 'rust-proofed' in this way and were just total rot-boxes under the gloop! As has already been said, there are also better, newer and more technologically-clever, rust-inhibiting, wax treatments available now.

Bilt Hamber's Dynax products (particularly, the clear wax) are very well regarded and old stalwart Wurth also has a couple of excellent, aerosol, clear-wax products if you're looking to do the job yourself. However, before using any of the waxes, proper steam-cleaning of the chassis areas to be treated (followed by thorough drying) is necessary if the products are to do the job properly. This often means using a 3rd-party specialist is the best way forward.

[mark.c]

Pesty said:

rlw said:

Waxoyl is not a good idea. There are newer, better, lighter treatments out there which last longer,so do a bit of research first. Practical Classics did a long term test of these and revealed the results a year or so ago and Waxoyl was not top 5 even.

I had the arches of my CLK done with one of the top products on the same basis as you are looking to treat your car. I will see if I still have the magazine.

Edited by rlw on Wednesday 3rd September 14:30

Thanks would be interesting.

Will look up bilth hamber

Also thinking it may be a good idea to get somebody to do it. Assumed you just sprayed it on and went for a cuppa.

It all depends on the condition of the surface that you are trying to protect, clearly if it's rusty and flakey then there would be little benefit in spraying it on compared to preparing the surface for the new coating. If your planning on doing the floor pans and wheel arches of your 964 etc and they are sound with just years of road grime then a thorough clean ( allowing it to dry fully) should be sufficient , if there is rot then obviously this needs dealing with first. So your assumption is partially right, it just depends what area and condition of area you are doing.
As an aside, we don't throw px24 down our gas turbines anymore, even the ones still left in service.

Edited by mark.c on Thursday 4th September 13:01

[cornershop]

http://www.vdubxs.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/r...

[uktrailmonster]

rlw said:

Waxoyl is not a good idea.

Oh yes it is. Just because there are other alternatives doesn't mean Waxoyl is bad. Notice it came second in the other long term test linked.
Anyway it's all about preparation as I said. Whatever you choose it has to be done properly. It's not a quick spray can job.

[Pesty]

mark.c said:

It all depends on the condition of the surface that you are trying to protect, clearly if it's rusty and flakey then there would be little benefit in spraying it on compared to preparing the surface for the new coating. If your planning on doing the floor pans and wheel arches of your 964 etc and they are sound with just years of road grime then a thorough clean ( allowing it to dry fully) should be sufficient , if there is rot then obviously this needs dealing with first. So your assumption is partially right, it just depends what area and condition of area you are doing.
As an aside, we don't throw px24 down our gas turbines anymore, even the ones still left in service.

Edited by mark.c on Thursday 4th September 13:01

All panels good. No rust I can see.( except jacking points) I have surface rust on things like drive shafts and suspension arms. That clear high temp stuff should be good for that.

I just want to keep it this way. Best I can.

[TheRealFingers99]

Rustbuster (for example). Get the cavities done, too.

[ClarkPB]

I did the underside of my 996 GT3 last winter with Dynax UC. I've got pics I can upload if you want to see some.

[roygarth]

Pesty said:

All panels good. No rust I can see.( except jacking points) I have surface rust on things like drive shafts and suspension arms. That clear high temp stuff should be good for that.

I just want to keep it this way. Best I can.

I would brush surface rust off as much as possible with electric/wire brush and apply a quality rust killer/converter before applying relevant Bilt Hamber.

[Pesty]

roygarth said:

I would brush surface rust off as much as possible with electric/wire brush and apply a quality rust killer/converter before applying relevant Bilt Hamber.

Thanks have ordered some rust removing gel and some wire brushes for drill.

ClarkPB said:

I did the underside of my 996 GT3 last winter with Dynax UC. I've got pics I can upload if you want to see some.

Would be grateful, thanks.