993 front wishbones replacement, info required
Discussion
It's time to bite the bullet and renew the front wishbones. I've replaced most of the suspension over the last year and now I've been told the front wishbones have excessive play in them.
I'm going to go down the Hartech refurb route for these as I'm poor and can't afford new replacements, I'll also replace each ball joint as well whilst I'm at it.
My question is, What else should I be thinking of replacing whilst these are being replaced? I've done ARBs, new dampers, new top mounts and springs.
Any help would be most appreciated
I'm going to go down the Hartech refurb route for these as I'm poor and can't afford new replacements, I'll also replace each ball joint as well whilst I'm at it.
My question is, What else should I be thinking of replacing whilst these are being replaced? I've done ARBs, new dampers, new top mounts and springs.
Any help would be most appreciated
Have you considered the upgrades?
For instance, and please all jump-in to point out my errors:
1) As I understand it, cheapo polybushes are no good as they have no metal sleeving, and so get damaged by the surrounding metal in a few years?
2) Carnewal supplies exchange 'bones with Walrod? bushings for 225 EUR - these are polybushes, but are properly engineered and you re-use the OE metal sleeves, so they last well?
3) Elephant racing bushes are much better, high quality engineering and rubber, but quite a lot more money.
4) or just OE but RS hardness rubber bushes - is this what Hartech supply?
I've sourced some 2nd-hand 'bones in anticipation of doing mine in a year or so, so I also need to make a decision.
Bernie says Elephant - Jackal says OE... any more opinions based on experience please?
For instance, and please all jump-in to point out my errors:
1) As I understand it, cheapo polybushes are no good as they have no metal sleeving, and so get damaged by the surrounding metal in a few years?
2) Carnewal supplies exchange 'bones with Walrod? bushings for 225 EUR - these are polybushes, but are properly engineered and you re-use the OE metal sleeves, so they last well?
3) Elephant racing bushes are much better, high quality engineering and rubber, but quite a lot more money.
4) or just OE but RS hardness rubber bushes - is this what Hartech supply?
I've sourced some 2nd-hand 'bones in anticipation of doing mine in a year or so, so I also need to make a decision.
Bernie says Elephant - Jackal says OE... any more opinions based on experience please?
Orangecurry said:
Have you considered the upgrades?
For instance, and please all jump-in to point out my errors:
1) As I understand it, cheapo polybushes are no good as they have no metal sleeving, and so get damaged by the surrounding metal in a few years?
That depends which make you buy - but a set of decent rear bushes (with stainless sleeves for £35 and probably the same for fronts is a big saving over replacement wishbones and will improve steering feel/response.For instance, and please all jump-in to point out my errors:
1) As I understand it, cheapo polybushes are no good as they have no metal sleeving, and so get damaged by the surrounding metal in a few years?
To be honest I'd prefer to go OEM bushes. I'm going to change the wishbone ball joints whilst I'm in there. I really don't want to go the hassle of trying to refurb the bushes myself and prefer a professional outfit like Hartech to supply recon ones.
What I really need to know what else might be worth doing whilst I'm in there, track rod ends etc or maybe other things. As the old girl from all the paperwork I've got as had only one balljoint replaced in 21 years, I'd sooner go OTT but don't want to replace items for example that never wear .
I'm outsourcing the work, so really want to build up the parts over the next few weeks for an all in one install. Obviously if something comes up obvious whilst having the work done, then it will have to be replaced.
What I really need to know what else might be worth doing whilst I'm in there, track rod ends etc or maybe other things. As the old girl from all the paperwork I've got as had only one balljoint replaced in 21 years, I'd sooner go OTT but don't want to replace items for example that never wear .
I'm outsourcing the work, so really want to build up the parts over the next few weeks for an all in one install. Obviously if something comes up obvious whilst having the work done, then it will have to be replaced.
Understood - the Carnewal ones are an option though
http://www.carnewal.com/products/P64;P93;P93Turbo/...
Track-rod ends don't need to be done until they wear, and can be replaced easily without dismantling anything else - you still need a GEO afterwards of course.
Here is the cooking 993 one at the top, and the RS one beneath - I think you have to buy the RS complete one and use the RS (solid) inner with the cooking outer. If that makes any sense?
ETA the arrow points to the different angles between the outers - the RS hub carrier is very different.
http://www.carnewal.com/products/P64;P93;P93Turbo/...
Track-rod ends don't need to be done until they wear, and can be replaced easily without dismantling anything else - you still need a GEO afterwards of course.
Here is the cooking 993 one at the top, and the RS one beneath - I think you have to buy the RS complete one and use the RS (solid) inner with the cooking outer. If that makes any sense?
ETA the arrow points to the different angles between the outers - the RS hub carrier is very different.
Orangecurry said:
Understood - the Carnewal ones are an option though
http://www.carnewal.com/products/P64;P93;P93Turbo/...
Track-rod ends don't need to be done until they wear, and can be replaced easily without dismantling anything else - you still need a GEO afterwards of course.
Here is the cooking 993 one at the top, and the RS one beneath - I think you have to buy the RS complete one and use the RS (solid) inner with the cooking outer. If that makes any sense?
ETA the arrow points to the different angles between the outers - the RS hub carrier is very different.
Cheers OC, me likey the Carnewel set, and Euro to pound (even including the 21% Tax on top) ratio makes them seem very reasonable.http://www.carnewal.com/products/P64;P93;P93Turbo/...
Track-rod ends don't need to be done until they wear, and can be replaced easily without dismantling anything else - you still need a GEO afterwards of course.
Here is the cooking 993 one at the top, and the RS one beneath - I think you have to buy the RS complete one and use the RS (solid) inner with the cooking outer. If that makes any sense?
ETA the arrow points to the different angles between the outers - the RS hub carrier is very different.
Track rod ends .... This is good advice, as a GEO I only want to do the once and correctly. Thanks for the heads up on these.
...sorry I should have been clearer....
Change to RS inner tie-rods *only* if you want to make the car slightly firmer - I'm still on cooking ones with my silly lowered car and they've coped just fine.
Getting the RS ones and then throwing the outers away isn't cost effective - you can (could) buy just the inners of the cooking version - roughly 60 GBP each from your OPC IIRC.
Only one of mine has failed in 25k miles (and seven years).
Change to RS inner tie-rods *only* if you want to make the car slightly firmer - I'm still on cooking ones with my silly lowered car and they've coped just fine.
Getting the RS ones and then throwing the outers away isn't cost effective - you can (could) buy just the inners of the cooking version - roughly 60 GBP each from your OPC IIRC.
Only one of mine has failed in 25k miles (and seven years).
Orangecurry said:
...sorry I should have been clearer....
Change to RS inner tie-rods *only* if you want to make the car slightly firmer - I'm still on cooking ones with my silly lowered car and they've coped just fine.
Getting the RS ones and then throwing the outers away isn't cost effective - you can (could) buy just the inners of the cooking version - roughly 60 GBP each from your OPC IIRC.
Only one of mine has failed in 25k miles (and seven years).
I need to get this all done ASAP OC. Looks like 3rd week in May now for Spain. I was going to send you a heads up if it was of interest. Still waiting for Phil to confirm, (he's away climbing a bloody mountain at the moment). At this point it just looks like the two of us.Change to RS inner tie-rods *only* if you want to make the car slightly firmer - I'm still on cooking ones with my silly lowered car and they've coped just fine.
Getting the RS ones and then throwing the outers away isn't cost effective - you can (could) buy just the inners of the cooking version - roughly 60 GBP each from your OPC IIRC.
Only one of mine has failed in 25k miles (and seven years).
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