Honda Accord 2.4 VTEC
Discussion
I've been researching/considering a lot of different cars recently and whilst I wasn't keen to replace my fairly old (15 yrs) car with another old car...the 2.4 Accord saloon is tempting me, always liked the look of these and a larger cc Jap n/a petrol engine is appealing without the complication of a turbo etc.
I potentially may look at one this weekend.
Based on other threads general reliability is v good as expected with Honda, they are thirsty apparently but given I drive 5k miles if that, per year not too concerned. I just can't see any other car that will give same bang for buck relative to outlay/performance/reliability and practicality though open to suggestions if there are any. As mentioned I drive 5k per year and mainly stop start journeys in town or longer stop start journeys across London. The car will replace a MK1 Focus 1.8 hatch..been a fantastic workhorse but after nearly 10 years need a change , 4/5 doors and more performance ideally
Any big/key issues with these cars to look out for esp if I go for a test drive?I am considering both auto and manual though manual is my preference to take full advantage of the performance on offer. Mileages are generally medium to high on.these cars now and they are getting on a bit so thought worthwhile checking with knowledgeable folk on here.
I potentially may look at one this weekend.
Based on other threads general reliability is v good as expected with Honda, they are thirsty apparently but given I drive 5k miles if that, per year not too concerned. I just can't see any other car that will give same bang for buck relative to outlay/performance/reliability and practicality though open to suggestions if there are any. As mentioned I drive 5k per year and mainly stop start journeys in town or longer stop start journeys across London. The car will replace a MK1 Focus 1.8 hatch..been a fantastic workhorse but after nearly 10 years need a change , 4/5 doors and more performance ideally
Any big/key issues with these cars to look out for esp if I go for a test drive?I am considering both auto and manual though manual is my preference to take full advantage of the performance on offer. Mileages are generally medium to high on.these cars now and they are getting on a bit so thought worthwhile checking with knowledgeable folk on here.
Edited by VR99 on Wednesday 10th April 00:12
Ah you have a good point..may need to rethink my options. I pay £250 ved at present for the focus and I think the focus would not fall foul but the accord is £315 ved and while central London isn't a regular haunt I use the north circ quite a lot and ideally want to keep car for a few years.
I had a 2.4 VTEC (auto) from new in 2004. Generally a good car, and the engine was fun, however:
- the '04 didn't have a fuel computer (weird)
- my infotainment system broke, which means I couldn't use the radio/sat nav or air-con. They replaced the whole thing under warranty (can you imagine how much that would all cost?)
- Mine had the dealer fit sports suspension and sports 'bodykit'. It made the ride incredibly harsh, and the the bodykit rattled like crazy.
Other than that, it was decent.
- the '04 didn't have a fuel computer (weird)
- my infotainment system broke, which means I couldn't use the radio/sat nav or air-con. They replaced the whole thing under warranty (can you imagine how much that would all cost?)
- Mine had the dealer fit sports suspension and sports 'bodykit'. It made the ride incredibly harsh, and the the bodykit rattled like crazy.
Other than that, it was decent.
I've driven manual only for the past 15 odd years so will quite a change to go auto but at times I get fed up of the constant changing up and down esp when stuck on the M25 or north circ!
Seems to be a lot of auto's about and hoping it's a fairly smooth and reliable unit.
I'm in my mid 30's so avoiding the body kits and big rims
Seems to be a lot of auto's about and hoping it's a fairly smooth and reliable unit.
I'm in my mid 30's so avoiding the body kits and big rims
I had a 2005 Accord 2.4 Executive and it was bullet proof. Forget the auto, you need the manual to get the full performance out of this engine. VTEC engagement happens at 6000rpm and continues up until 7200rpm. Even at 7200rpm the engine sounds sweet and unlaboured - it is designed for it after all.
Executive model is the best to get, it has all the toys and probably the best seats I've been in (which includes SAAB, S-Class etc).
This engine has manual lifters which may need to be adjusted if you can hear excessive tappet noise. It's considered a fine-tune rather than maintenance but you do need a special tool if doing it yourself, which I would recommend in order to make sure the job is done right. It only takes an hour and is pretty easy.
This is the tool: https://www.tegiwaimports.com/powerbuilt-10mm-jam-...
Fuel economy isn't all that bad, I could return mid 30's if taking it easy. It's a light car, only about 1.4T I think. Important to use good 0W20 oil.
Also, it's Euro4. Even the 2005. If unsure then just pop the reg of one you are looking at into the ULEZ checker.
Executive model is the best to get, it has all the toys and probably the best seats I've been in (which includes SAAB, S-Class etc).
This engine has manual lifters which may need to be adjusted if you can hear excessive tappet noise. It's considered a fine-tune rather than maintenance but you do need a special tool if doing it yourself, which I would recommend in order to make sure the job is done right. It only takes an hour and is pretty easy.
This is the tool: https://www.tegiwaimports.com/powerbuilt-10mm-jam-...
Fuel economy isn't all that bad, I could return mid 30's if taking it easy. It's a light car, only about 1.4T I think. Important to use good 0W20 oil.
Also, it's Euro4. Even the 2005. If unsure then just pop the reg of one you are looking at into the ULEZ checker.
Edited by ninjag on Wednesday 10th April 17:24
We have 2008 2.4 Accord Estate auto that we have had since it was a year old. Now on around 77K. Absolutely nothing has gone wrong with it. Extremely reliable (chain driven, no clutch and no turbos / Dmf etc...)
A couple of things to watch for - rusty sunroof carriers (check out the threads on TypeAccord forum) but most cars are OK and sticking rear callipers.
Otherwise not a fireball to drive (comapred to other other cars) but very nice to relax in.
A couple of things to watch for - rusty sunroof carriers (check out the threads on TypeAccord forum) but most cars are OK and sticking rear callipers.
Otherwise not a fireball to drive (comapred to other other cars) but very nice to relax in.
If you're looking for something along the same lines as the Accord then the 2.5 N/A Mazda6 is a very good alternative, they're well equipped one with the Bose Stereo being an option to look out for:
Sport Hatchback
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
The saloons seem to be better spec'd but harder to find
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
There's always the IS250 but they're a bit smaller than both the Honda & Mazda:
Sport get one with the Nav as you also get the Mark Levinson stereo.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
SE
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
All the above are good N/A family cars that are a match for the Honda which is best is subjective so test drives will help with a final decision, I can't remember what your budget was I hope these help.
Sport Hatchback
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
The saloons seem to be better spec'd but harder to find
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
There's always the IS250 but they're a bit smaller than both the Honda & Mazda:
Sport get one with the Nav as you also get the Mark Levinson stereo.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
SE
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
All the above are good N/A family cars that are a match for the Honda which is best is subjective so test drives will help with a final decision, I can't remember what your budget was I hope these help.
Very useful input here thanks guys.
So I have a budget which isn't fixed per say but 6k max.
I've seen a 2.4 manual advertised with +80k on the clock and it's under half my budget..exec spec with leathers and according to the advert FSH. I will literally be swapping one oldish car for another hence wanted to check for any known issues.
I've looked at the mazda6 2.5 too..again fairly rare but I would consider those over a Mazda 3 2.0 sport (another one on my list) due to the lack of oomph in the 3. Though wary of the 'paintwork' comments I've seen about.mazda cars.
Manual would be more tiring to drive on longer runs but those said runs are very infrequent so maybe should bite the bullet with the manual as it looks a lot of fun.
I'm useless with cars guys so apart from checking oil/water...tyre pressure...I will leave any proper work to mechanics.
So I have a budget which isn't fixed per say but 6k max.
I've seen a 2.4 manual advertised with +80k on the clock and it's under half my budget..exec spec with leathers and according to the advert FSH. I will literally be swapping one oldish car for another hence wanted to check for any known issues.
I've looked at the mazda6 2.5 too..again fairly rare but I would consider those over a Mazda 3 2.0 sport (another one on my list) due to the lack of oomph in the 3. Though wary of the 'paintwork' comments I've seen about.mazda cars.
Manual would be more tiring to drive on longer runs but those said runs are very infrequent so maybe should bite the bullet with the manual as it looks a lot of fun.
I'm useless with cars guys so apart from checking oil/water...tyre pressure...I will leave any proper work to mechanics.
Thanks just checked both ULEZ and LEZ compliant so no issues there.
Interesting point about the alloys and comfort..was tempted to try source the.magnesium 5/6 spoke alloys if I bought an accord but maybe will not tinker with any of it and just leave oem as it came from the factory.
Guys stupid qu time..if I am going to a car garage with a view to offering my current car as p/x and ideally want to do same day in one hit then do I need to take anything else apart from the DVLA owner slip(forgot name), service history invoices,mot's, car manuals and spare key?I have every single receipt/invoice/mot for my car during my ownership plus previous owners receipts and invoices so planning to take the whole lot so that hopefully they would take my car as p/X there and then subject to any checks.
Interesting point about the alloys and comfort..was tempted to try source the.magnesium 5/6 spoke alloys if I bought an accord but maybe will not tinker with any of it and just leave oem as it came from the factory.
Guys stupid qu time..if I am going to a car garage with a view to offering my current car as p/x and ideally want to do same day in one hit then do I need to take anything else apart from the DVLA owner slip(forgot name), service history invoices,mot's, car manuals and spare key?I have every single receipt/invoice/mot for my car during my ownership plus previous owners receipts and invoices so planning to take the whole lot so that hopefully they would take my car as p/X there and then subject to any checks.
Edited by VR99 on Wednesday 10th April 12:29
I've had a 2003 2.4 Type S for about 6-7 years now. I bought it at 121k and it's now pushing 277k
They aren't that quick these days, and you do need to give it some revs so they're thirsty things - I tend to average about 28mpg with a mix of motorway/B-roads (I do 20k a year, so try not to think about fuel costs!)
Things to look out for
- Rear calipers like to seize
- Driveshafts are a common failure on this era Accord - Usually you will have a vibration at a certain speed when accelerating
- Stretched chain - Depending on mileage/service history, listen for a rattle when first starting the car. Luckily, if the chain lets go it only smashes valves if you're high up the revs (My chain skipped a few teeth last year, 50 degrees out apparently but no damage)
- Not really relevant if you're only doing 5k, but from my experience the 2.4 is under braked and mine tends to eat front pads.
- A/C condenser has no protection at all, and is easily damaged.
- Headlights lenses will most likely need sanding/polishing
Other than general servicing / wear & tear stuff, over 155k, mines had
- 2x Clutches (2nd is feeling like it needs a change)
- 1x clutch slave cylinder
- 1x alternator
- 1x Knock Sensor
- Quite a few ABS sensors - These are a ball ache to change as they get stuck and need to be drilled out most of the time!
- Both rear wheel bearings
- Both front shocks - Passenger side went but made sense to change both
- Load of suspension bushes at the front
- Both front springs - Drivers side snapped
- Timing chain/Guides & tensioner
- 1x driveshaft
They aren't that quick these days, and you do need to give it some revs so they're thirsty things - I tend to average about 28mpg with a mix of motorway/B-roads (I do 20k a year, so try not to think about fuel costs!)
Things to look out for
- Rear calipers like to seize
- Driveshafts are a common failure on this era Accord - Usually you will have a vibration at a certain speed when accelerating
- Stretched chain - Depending on mileage/service history, listen for a rattle when first starting the car. Luckily, if the chain lets go it only smashes valves if you're high up the revs (My chain skipped a few teeth last year, 50 degrees out apparently but no damage)
- Not really relevant if you're only doing 5k, but from my experience the 2.4 is under braked and mine tends to eat front pads.
- A/C condenser has no protection at all, and is easily damaged.
- Headlights lenses will most likely need sanding/polishing
Other than general servicing / wear & tear stuff, over 155k, mines had
- 2x Clutches (2nd is feeling like it needs a change)
- 1x clutch slave cylinder
- 1x alternator
- 1x Knock Sensor
- Quite a few ABS sensors - These are a ball ache to change as they get stuck and need to be drilled out most of the time!
- Both rear wheel bearings
- Both front shocks - Passenger side went but made sense to change both
- Load of suspension bushes at the front
- Both front springs - Drivers side snapped
- Timing chain/Guides & tensioner
- 1x driveshaft
Kewy said:
You can pick up a JDM CL7 Euro R for just over 6k on Autotrader at the moment!
Just saying… not bias or anything… ahem.
I've seen a blue one on sale for a while.. might be a bit too raw for me! But cheers Just saying… not bias or anything… ahem.
MW88 that's quite a long list! But v impressive mileage. I am hoping not to have to deal.with as many issues but have to accept these are older cars. I would say my MK1 focus has had less issues than that in my 9 odd yes of ownership but had alt go on me few yrs back and last year took a hit getting belt, tyres and tracking done so part and parcel.
Im not planning to 'vtec yo' at every opportunity so hopefully the car will last a bit too.
Edited by VR99 on Wednesday 10th April 12:37
VR99 said:
I've seen a blue one on sale for a while.. might be a bit too raw for me! But cheers
MW88 that's quite a long list! But v impressive mileage. I am hoping not to have to deal.with as many issues but have to accept these are older cars. I would say my MK1 focus has had less issues than that in my 9 odd yes of ownership but had alt go on me few yrs back and last year took a hit getting belt, tyres and tracking done so part and parcel.
Im not planning to 'vtec yo' at every opportunity so hopefully the car will last a bit too.
It's quite a big list, but over 20-25k a year, it could be doing 5x your planned mileage so my car has a fairly tough life.MW88 that's quite a long list! But v impressive mileage. I am hoping not to have to deal.with as many issues but have to accept these are older cars. I would say my MK1 focus has had less issues than that in my 9 odd yes of ownership but had alt go on me few yrs back and last year took a hit getting belt, tyres and tracking done so part and parcel.
Im not planning to 'vtec yo' at every opportunity so hopefully the car will last a bit too.
Edited by VR99 on Wednesday 10th April 12:37
The car has let me down 3 times where it's not been drivable in that time, so reliability isn't too bad.
I have a 2.4 03 reg. Its reliable for the moment but a bit of a nail now. Rear arch rust issues plus ideally needs suspension work, brake work and a new clutch possibly also driveshaft. Not worth me spending any money on it though.
I wouldnt say its fast at all given its on paper credentials. Fine on a motorway cruise but effort to drive around town.
I wouldnt say its fast at all given its on paper credentials. Fine on a motorway cruise but effort to drive around town.
VR99 said:
Very useful input here thanks guys.
So I have a budget which isn't fixed per say but 6k max.
I've seen a 2.4 manual advertised with +80k on the clock and it's under half my budget..exec spec with leathers and according to the advert FSH. I will literally be swapping one oldish car for another hence wanted to check for any known issues.
I've looked at the mazda6 2.5 too..again fairly rare but I would consider those over a Mazda 3 2.0 sport (another one on my list) due to the lack of oomph in the 3. Though wary of the 'paintwork' comments I've seen about.mazda cars.
Manual would be more tiring to drive on longer runs but those said runs are very infrequent so maybe should bite the bullet with the manual as it looks a lot of fun.
I'm useless with cars guys so apart from checking oil/water...tyre pressure...I will leave any proper work to mechanics.
The 2.5 Mazda6's gearing suits long hauls well with enough grunt in 6th make motorway work a breeze without many if any gear changes, if it has to be N/A auto then the IS250 or the 2.3 Mondeo are the two to look at:So I have a budget which isn't fixed per say but 6k max.
I've seen a 2.4 manual advertised with +80k on the clock and it's under half my budget..exec spec with leathers and according to the advert FSH. I will literally be swapping one oldish car for another hence wanted to check for any known issues.
I've looked at the mazda6 2.5 too..again fairly rare but I would consider those over a Mazda 3 2.0 sport (another one on my list) due to the lack of oomph in the 3. Though wary of the 'paintwork' comments I've seen about.mazda cars.
Manual would be more tiring to drive on longer runs but those said runs are very infrequent so maybe should bite the bullet with the manual as it looks a lot of fun.
I'm useless with cars guys so apart from checking oil/water...tyre pressure...I will leave any proper work to mechanics.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
The paint work on the Mazda's I listed above are pretty much on par with most modern cars (ie thin & not that resistant to chips) but you shouldn't have an issue with the paint work.
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