Discussion
Nearside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive Floor to sill (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive Floor to sill (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Nearside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Offside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Both rear under quarter sills corroded
Offside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Looking for a first car thought I'd found one until I checked its mot,does anyone know if the car is still worth buying or not please? And how expensive it would be to repair all that
Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive Floor to sill (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Nearside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Offside Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Both rear under quarter sills corroded
Offside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Looking for a first car thought I'd found one until I checked its mot,does anyone know if the car is still worth buying or not please? And how expensive it would be to repair all that
Rusty as sh*t... avoid like the plague.
As for the cost... depends how much more rust there is that can't be seen (there will be).
anywhere between £300 and £1000+ depending on how much needs cutting out, the availability of repair panels etc etc etc... without knowing the car that's a hard question to answer.
As for the cost... depends how much more rust there is that can't be seen (there will be).
anywhere between £300 and £1000+ depending on how much needs cutting out, the availability of repair panels etc etc etc... without knowing the car that's a hard question to answer.
Good call... I would buy a car with mechanical issues over rust any day of the week.
Having owned quite a few old rusty Jap cars, rust is something you can throw thousands of pounds at, and still be constantly chasing...it's very hard to get rid of for good, and labour intensive to repair.
Having owned quite a few old rusty Jap cars, rust is something you can throw thousands of pounds at, and still be constantly chasing...it's very hard to get rid of for good, and labour intensive to repair.
doesnt mean its dangerous , its getting on in life and will need welding within a few years ...or the tester was being picky
dont take a clean sheet as meaning the car is a minter either ...went to view a car last week no advisorys mentioning rust , both sills scabby when i looked under it
dont take a clean sheet as meaning the car is a minter either ...went to view a car last week no advisorys mentioning rust , both sills scabby when i looked under it
This absolutely needs to be put into context which is pretty hard without knowing the car and its age, however in my experience a car with that many corrosion advisories is probably scraping through by the skin of its teeth and the work will need done imminently and it certainly won't get through its next mot! I would say bullet dodged!
Op if you want to post a budget and what sort of car you are after over in the car buying section a few people will post some suggestions as to what you should be looking for that is worthwhile irrelevant of budget size!
Op if you want to post a budget and what sort of car you are after over in the car buying section a few people will post some suggestions as to what you should be looking for that is worthwhile irrelevant of budget size!
I'm looking at a mazda 3, went though a garage instead now costs a little more than the corroded one but it is a 09 instead, think the other was a 08 and they were charging close to £2000, messaged them saying I wasn't interested because of all the corrosion and they just replied with that's okay because I sold it last night anyways, tbh they came across as abit dodgy to me especially when they asked for a deposit before I looked at it and the only form of contact was email at that time
Rymarc said:
Thanks for all the advise, saved us loads of hassle, no idea why people sell cars that aren't safe it's stupid, getting one with no advisorys except a waring brakpad
I disagree that it is unsafe. If it was it wouldn't have an MoT.The advisories are a warning of potential problems which may or may not need immediate attention and could reappear at the next MoT without the car failing.
Advisories can also be indications of another problem outside the remit of the tester. For example the worn tyre is signalling that the tracking is out of alignment - more expense!
Tbf, even a completely clean MOT isn't really protection against expensive bills. Bought my Cooper S earlier this year having just been given a clean bill of health. Some maintenance advisories in the past - tyres worn close to limit etc., but no horror stories. Since buying in April I have:
1. replaced the rear drop links when the back end started knocking like mad;
2. replaced the valve stem seals when it started spewing copious blue smoke;
3. replaced the turbo after the waste gate failed; and
4. replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils after cylinder 1 started to misfire.
Still love it to death, but I'm fully expecting something like the HPFP or the timing chain to need doing as next month's surprise!
1. replaced the rear drop links when the back end started knocking like mad;
2. replaced the valve stem seals when it started spewing copious blue smoke;
3. replaced the turbo after the waste gate failed; and
4. replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils after cylinder 1 started to misfire.
Still love it to death, but I'm fully expecting something like the HPFP or the timing chain to need doing as next month's surprise!
mazdas that age can rust badly...check em out in a car park you will see all 4 arches rotten so god knows that its like underneath
a side street dealer asking 2000 has probably paid nearer 500 for and chancing thier arm someone will pay good money for it , then will disappear if theres problems with it, find a private seller that doesnt look like a scum bag and buy from them
a side street dealer asking 2000 has probably paid nearer 500 for and chancing thier arm someone will pay good money for it , then will disappear if theres problems with it, find a private seller that doesnt look like a scum bag and buy from them
Draculaw said:
Tbf, even a completely clean MOT isn't really protection against expensive bills. Bought my Cooper S earlier this year having just been given a clean bill of health. Some maintenance advisories in the past - tyres worn close to limit etc., but no horror stories. Since buying in April I have:
1. replaced the rear drop links when the back end started knocking like mad;
2. replaced the valve stem seals when it started spewing copious blue smoke;
3. replaced the turbo after the waste gate failed; and
4. replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils after cylinder 1 started to misfire.
Still love it to death, but I'm fully expecting something like the HPFP or the timing chain to need doing as next month's surprise!
My first choice was going to be a Cooper absolutely love them but decided against it because needed more space 1. replaced the rear drop links when the back end started knocking like mad;
2. replaced the valve stem seals when it started spewing copious blue smoke;
3. replaced the turbo after the waste gate failed; and
4. replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils after cylinder 1 started to misfire.
Still love it to death, but I'm fully expecting something like the HPFP or the timing chain to need doing as next month's surprise!
Still going for the mazda 3 tbh found one that's been really well looked after looks spotless inside and out and done 70k miles which isn't bad for a 09 mode, probably take it to a garage and get the bottom rust protected though just to be safe, any tips on rust prevention, read you should wash it every 2 weeks but tbh would of done that anyways lol
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