Used car issues - what are my rights?!
Discussion
6 weeks ago I purchased a CRV for just over £2k. It has been back to the garage 4 times now to fix issues. First for warped brake discs, no big deal. Then for a starting issue which never got fixed, then again for a starting issue which they sorted with a new starter motor, but the problem persisted. Then again this week for an EML and the same starting issue and an idle issue. (They replaced a knock sensor and said it was all Ok)
Driving home from picking it back up again, the EML came on again and the car seems to hesitate/surge when changing gear under load (auto). As I’m sure you can imagine, I’m fed up now.
What are my rights? Car was sold with a 6 month warranty from a reputable garage.
Any advice would be great.
Driving home from picking it back up again, the EML came on again and the car seems to hesitate/surge when changing gear under load (auto). As I’m sure you can imagine, I’m fed up now.
What are my rights? Car was sold with a 6 month warranty from a reputable garage.
Any advice would be great.
At 2k I'm guessing it was a mark2 , around 2005/2006, with over 100k miles?
I had a 2004 bought at a similar age with the same sort of miles, it ate discs and suspension components for fun, also had to replace a knock sensor. All reasonable so far.
A starting issue that hasn't been fixed but a new starter has been fitted I'd say needs further investigation by the garage. The car needs to work as expected, a reasonable person would say that means any issues get sorted out
I had a 2004 bought at a similar age with the same sort of miles, it ate discs and suspension components for fun, also had to replace a knock sensor. All reasonable so far.
A starting issue that hasn't been fixed but a new starter has been fitted I'd say needs further investigation by the garage. The car needs to work as expected, a reasonable person would say that means any issues get sorted out
It’s a 2002 with 92k miles.
It had a knock sensor last year too according to service history. But for the EML to come straight back on after just picking it back up? I don’t think that’s right at all.
The starting issue is odd, they keep saying it’s all okay, but it is not!
How many chances do I realistically need to give them before calling it a day? The last 2 times I’ve picked the car back up, it’s had to go back to them again the next day.
It had a knock sensor last year too according to service history. But for the EML to come straight back on after just picking it back up? I don’t think that’s right at all.
The starting issue is odd, they keep saying it’s all okay, but it is not!
How many chances do I realistically need to give them before calling it a day? The last 2 times I’ve picked the car back up, it’s had to go back to them again the next day.
You are perfectly within your rights to reject as every man and his dog on here knows.
BUT...Please be a reasonable person and realise that this is a 17 yr old 90k mile near end of life vehicle, that has travelled 4 times around the globe.
Be reasonable.
BUT...Please be a reasonable person and realise that this is a 17 yr old 90k mile near end of life vehicle, that has travelled 4 times around the globe.
Be reasonable.
Edited by Mexman on Tuesday 24th September 19:43
I agree with mexman but on the plus side the old MK1/MK2 petrol CRVs are simple (although yours is an auto which might add a bit more complexity) , tough as old boots and many go on to do big mileages. Of course it's rubbish you've had the issues, perhaps when you go back you can ask the garage to keep the car 24 hrs after they fix the issues and test drive it a couple of times themselves to try sniff out anything lurking.
Since you've had it 6 weeks then 'returning' a used car can be difficult if the garage doesn't want to play ball, regardless of rights and wrongs, so personally I'd try let them do everything they can to fix it, but raise with them that you can't return every other week etc.
Hope it's sorted and gives many miles of trouble free motoring after .
Since you've had it 6 weeks then 'returning' a used car can be difficult if the garage doesn't want to play ball, regardless of rights and wrongs, so personally I'd try let them do everything they can to fix it, but raise with them that you can't return every other week etc.
Hope it's sorted and gives many miles of trouble free motoring after .
Car is going back tomorrow to be sorted.
However, I was doing some checks tonight and the coolant tank is now bone dry and empty (it was full a couple of weeks ago) and I’m fairly sure the transmission fluid is now over full, it was spot on when I did the fluid change a few weeks ago. The two can’t be connected, right?
This is turning into a real headache car
However, I was doing some checks tonight and the coolant tank is now bone dry and empty (it was full a couple of weeks ago) and I’m fairly sure the transmission fluid is now over full, it was spot on when I did the fluid change a few weeks ago. The two can’t be connected, right?
This is turning into a real headache car
What was Hondas design life for the vehicle?
12 yrs is the average, maybe 15 yrs at a push?
Every single spigot, bearing, nut, bolt, widget, switch, gadget, whatchamacallit, has been around the globe 4 times in a 17 yr old banger.
Fair play to the dealer for rectifying the issues you have, but if you are expecting years of trouble free motoring from an ancient, leggy 2k car, then you need to think again.
It will continue to throw issues and faults, that's why its a 2k(sounds expensive to me) car.
12 yrs is the average, maybe 15 yrs at a push?
Every single spigot, bearing, nut, bolt, widget, switch, gadget, whatchamacallit, has been around the globe 4 times in a 17 yr old banger.
Fair play to the dealer for rectifying the issues you have, but if you are expecting years of trouble free motoring from an ancient, leggy 2k car, then you need to think again.
It will continue to throw issues and faults, that's why its a 2k(sounds expensive to me) car.
Honestly, I'm not trying to be harsh.
But, any motor dealer who is trading in 2k cars is asking for grief, because of current laws, CRA etc.
This is why many reputable dealers, who I work for included will simply not entertain even getting involved with anything over 10yrs old or 90k miles.
Ask yourself why it was part exchanged and for how much?
Considering the expenditure that the dealer has already spent and what he is now going to have to spend, allowing for VAT, servicing, warranty, MOT, valet, lights, electric, wages, profit etc...he has probably given £500 or £600 for it., which is where I see any car on an 02 (?) plate, even less if it was your average Ford, Vauxhall, Citroen or most stuff TBH.
Ok , its a Honda, maybe worth a few extra quid over and above your average 02 plate car, which is why its maybe £500, £600 Quid's worth.
If it was anything else on an 02 plate, its worthless, junk, scrap value, few hundred quid at the most.
But, any motor dealer who is trading in 2k cars is asking for grief, because of current laws, CRA etc.
This is why many reputable dealers, who I work for included will simply not entertain even getting involved with anything over 10yrs old or 90k miles.
Ask yourself why it was part exchanged and for how much?
Considering the expenditure that the dealer has already spent and what he is now going to have to spend, allowing for VAT, servicing, warranty, MOT, valet, lights, electric, wages, profit etc...he has probably given £500 or £600 for it., which is where I see any car on an 02 (?) plate, even less if it was your average Ford, Vauxhall, Citroen or most stuff TBH.
Ok , its a Honda, maybe worth a few extra quid over and above your average 02 plate car, which is why its maybe £500, £600 Quid's worth.
If it was anything else on an 02 plate, its worthless, junk, scrap value, few hundred quid at the most.
Either reject it, or have the dealer fix it and carry on.
Only you can make that decision, if you like the car, and its generally tidy etc...
As a motor dealer, I would have tried to buy the same car privately from a decent seller (most Hondas are owned by the elderly and hence look after things), and for the money you have paid, in excess of 2k (?), I would have expected to have found a similar car, at least 3 or 4 years newer, that's if you specifically wanted that model of Honda.
OK you won't have any comeback, but this is why that particular dealer has given probably £500 or £600 quid for your car from auction or in PX.
You would get a much nicer car for your 2k privately.
Only you can make that decision, if you like the car, and its generally tidy etc...
As a motor dealer, I would have tried to buy the same car privately from a decent seller (most Hondas are owned by the elderly and hence look after things), and for the money you have paid, in excess of 2k (?), I would have expected to have found a similar car, at least 3 or 4 years newer, that's if you specifically wanted that model of Honda.
OK you won't have any comeback, but this is why that particular dealer has given probably £500 or £600 quid for your car from auction or in PX.
You would get a much nicer car for your 2k privately.
Of you whack the reg into we buy any car it will give an idea of what the trade thinks it's worth so a figure in the ballpark of what the dealer paid.
I think you've been unlucky but it's a risk at that budget, I'm in a £1500 car so carrying a similar risk but also bought Japanese on the basis it's lower risk as more reliable, you maybe overpaid a little but you chose a decent model of car.
In terms of the EML I'd buy a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader off eBay and the torque app for my phone and do a code read. Will atleast let you know what your dealing with for £15
I think you've been unlucky but it's a risk at that budget, I'm in a £1500 car so carrying a similar risk but also bought Japanese on the basis it's lower risk as more reliable, you maybe overpaid a little but you chose a decent model of car.
In terms of the EML I'd buy a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader off eBay and the torque app for my phone and do a code read. Will atleast let you know what your dealing with for £15
Edited by Roboticarm on Thursday 26th September 20:53
gman88667733 said:
Car is going back tomorrow to be sorted.
However, I was doing some checks tonight and the coolant tank is now bone dry and empty (it was full a couple of weeks ago) and I’m fairly sure the transmission fluid is now over full, it was spot on when I did the fluid change a few weeks ago. The two can’t be connected, right?
This is turning into a real headache car
Yes those 2 issues "could" be related. However, I was doing some checks tonight and the coolant tank is now bone dry and empty (it was full a couple of weeks ago) and I’m fairly sure the transmission fluid is now over full, it was spot on when I did the fluid change a few weeks ago. The two can’t be connected, right?
This is turning into a real headache car
Most autos have the fluid cooled by going through a pipe in the lower tank of the radiator. If yours has this setup there will be small diameter rubber hoses attached to each bottom corner of the rad.
If this pipe has fractured/rusted inside the rad you would get an exchange of fluids which could lead to an empty expansion tank and an overfull transmission.
Just a thought.
There is a wet patch in the bottom corner underneath the radiator. But it is also basically underneath the expansion tank, but I couldn’t see any drips once I topped the tank up with just water and started the engine.
My transmission fluid was over full when I got the car too, so when I drained it and refilled it twice, I made sure it was spot on. The coolant looked very fresh when I got the car too
My transmission fluid was over full when I got the car too, so when I drained it and refilled it twice, I made sure it was spot on. The coolant looked very fresh when I got the car too
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