Thinking About Buying a Peugeot 106 Rallye – Any Advice?
Discussion
Hi everyone,
I’ve recently been looking at the Peugeot 106 Rallye and I’m seriously tempted. I love the idea of a lightweight, fun-to-drive car, but I’ve never owned one before.
I wanted to ask a few things from people here who might have experience with them:
What’s the ownership like in terms of reliability and maintenance?
Are parts still easy to find, or is it becoming a challenge?
Anything in particular I should watch out for when viewing one?
Would really appreciate hearing your thoughts or stories about living with one.
Thanks in advance!
I’ve recently been looking at the Peugeot 106 Rallye and I’m seriously tempted. I love the idea of a lightweight, fun-to-drive car, but I’ve never owned one before.
I wanted to ask a few things from people here who might have experience with them:
What’s the ownership like in terms of reliability and maintenance?
Are parts still easy to find, or is it becoming a challenge?
Anything in particular I should watch out for when viewing one?
Would really appreciate hearing your thoughts or stories about living with one.
Thanks in advance!
S1 or S2? 8v or 16v-converted?
They're a fantastic car, very easy to work on and very reliable. Simple engine management which doesn't really go wrong (most common issues are temperature sensors and idle control valves, both easy to sort).
Parts are getting slightly tricky as they've been out of production for so long, I wouldn't expect to use one as a daily, but as a 2nd/weekend car perfectly capable.
If I might make a recommendation, leave it at factory ride height with the original springs and dampers etc. The sportier mods ruin the original compliant handling which makes them the most joyous.
If you're looking at a 16v converted car ask which gearbox it has - the final drive ratio differed between Quicksilver, GTI (and other "sports"-ratio), Rallye etc and the real fizz is having one with the correct final drive. The MA box is relatively weak and known for bearing issues if driven very hard, but easy to rebuild.
Rust points to check are the gussets under the A pillars (just inboard of the front jacking points) - they get crushed by lazy mechanics putting the ramp feet on them, then rust out. After that look at the inner wings under the ECU and fuse box, that can be a pain to sort but not impossible. Check under the boot and inside the seams of the boot where the sides meet the floor. This is an easy repair.
With the Rallye be aware that a lot of them are carrying aftermarket decals now - if originals they'll be printed on clear backing, if repro they're printed on silver backing. From factory they should be over the lacquer on the paint, any that have been lacquered over means the panel was resprayed. Even if they're starting to look tatty make sure you source replacements *before* removing the old ones.
There's a 106 Rallye Register facebook group which is full of owners, and an incredible amount of knowledge.
I had 2x blue S2s and loved every moment, wish I'd kept them as I can't afford another one now.
They're a fantastic car, very easy to work on and very reliable. Simple engine management which doesn't really go wrong (most common issues are temperature sensors and idle control valves, both easy to sort).
Parts are getting slightly tricky as they've been out of production for so long, I wouldn't expect to use one as a daily, but as a 2nd/weekend car perfectly capable.
If I might make a recommendation, leave it at factory ride height with the original springs and dampers etc. The sportier mods ruin the original compliant handling which makes them the most joyous.
If you're looking at a 16v converted car ask which gearbox it has - the final drive ratio differed between Quicksilver, GTI (and other "sports"-ratio), Rallye etc and the real fizz is having one with the correct final drive. The MA box is relatively weak and known for bearing issues if driven very hard, but easy to rebuild.
Rust points to check are the gussets under the A pillars (just inboard of the front jacking points) - they get crushed by lazy mechanics putting the ramp feet on them, then rust out. After that look at the inner wings under the ECU and fuse box, that can be a pain to sort but not impossible. Check under the boot and inside the seams of the boot where the sides meet the floor. This is an easy repair.
With the Rallye be aware that a lot of them are carrying aftermarket decals now - if originals they'll be printed on clear backing, if repro they're printed on silver backing. From factory they should be over the lacquer on the paint, any that have been lacquered over means the panel was resprayed. Even if they're starting to look tatty make sure you source replacements *before* removing the old ones.
There's a 106 Rallye Register facebook group which is full of owners, and an incredible amount of knowledge.
I had 2x blue S2s and loved every moment, wish I'd kept them as I can't afford another one now.
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