How long would you run/keep family cars for?
Discussion
We've owned our cars since new, but they are now 9 and 11 years old, between them they've done 160k in that time. Both cars are fully stock and I suspect I've saved a decent amount for cash by not swapping cars/modding them I did in my younger days. The plan was to keep both cars going for a while longer yet but as it happens for the first time I can remember we ended up in a situation where both cars were off the road/undrivable due to some issues, dead 12V battery just after doing swimming drop off in one and issues with air suspension for another.
Luckily the AA got one of them back on the road quickly, and other I've found a local independent who can do a repair at half the cost of the main dealer. However is did promot a conversation in the house about if we should think about replacing one of the cars with something new?
I've never owned any cars for this long before and one of them is about to tick over 100k.......Any thoughts/experiences from those who have run cars for decade+? I don't mind sorting issues when they come up, but having 2 cars off the road is more than a slight pain just before the weekend. Equally I don't want to over react, and would rather not change the cars.
On a side note the AA are fantastic, I don't use them much, probably once every couple of years, but everytime I've called them they have being responsive, professional and got me back on the road.
Luckily the AA got one of them back on the road quickly, and other I've found a local independent who can do a repair at half the cost of the main dealer. However is did promot a conversation in the house about if we should think about replacing one of the cars with something new?
I've never owned any cars for this long before and one of them is about to tick over 100k.......Any thoughts/experiences from those who have run cars for decade+? I don't mind sorting issues when they come up, but having 2 cars off the road is more than a slight pain just before the weekend. Equally I don't want to over react, and would rather not change the cars.
On a side note the AA are fantastic, I don't use them much, probably once every couple of years, but everytime I've called them they have being responsive, professional and got me back on the road.
I try to keep my family runarounds for as long as possible as they weren't daily drivers up until recently. I used to only do around 4k miles a year. My son is 17 and I've just bought my third family car since he was born. I normally give a car a couple of big ish bills before I get rid but I don't count general wear items against that
Imho there is no single answer and no right/wrong answer. It comes down to priorities and prudency (a function of priorities I guess) for some with wealth and no option for folk less well off.
It's always going to be cheaper to keep an older car going but then you miss out on all the advances on technology and efficency.
Our cars are 18yrs old (e91 330d 181k miles owned 9.5yrs) and 14yrs old (Mondeo mk4.5 Tit X estate, 134k owned 5yrs). I could have bought posher, newer cars but personally my priority was clearing mortgage so I didn't. Recently I have reached the point where I am a bit fed up with both for different reasons and want something newer. I may go for a 2nd hand Model Y. Having been fairly tight dosh wise for so long I am finding it hard to lay out £20k+ even though I can now easily afford it. Probably because both cars still function and in the case of the Ford it has been super reliable.
Tldr; I keep them longer than I need if they behave because I am tight! I couldn't have lived with myself if the car had caused us financial stretch/stress when the kids were young.
This answer is no use to you and more MumsNet than PH I know.
It's always going to be cheaper to keep an older car going but then you miss out on all the advances on technology and efficency.
Our cars are 18yrs old (e91 330d 181k miles owned 9.5yrs) and 14yrs old (Mondeo mk4.5 Tit X estate, 134k owned 5yrs). I could have bought posher, newer cars but personally my priority was clearing mortgage so I didn't. Recently I have reached the point where I am a bit fed up with both for different reasons and want something newer. I may go for a 2nd hand Model Y. Having been fairly tight dosh wise for so long I am finding it hard to lay out £20k+ even though I can now easily afford it. Probably because both cars still function and in the case of the Ford it has been super reliable.
Tldr; I keep them longer than I need if they behave because I am tight! I couldn't have lived with myself if the car had caused us financial stretch/stress when the kids were young.
This answer is no use to you and more MumsNet than PH I know.
I used to change cars regularly sometimes only a couple of years between changes
My current car I bought new 11 years ago and it's now done 122k and still drives like new, no rattles, squeaks etc. the only thing that betrays its age is a couple of small parking dings and a bit of laquer peel on rear bumper
It's got just enough tech, yet not too much to worry about failing
My wife ran company cars for years before opting out
Hers is now 9 years old, bought as an ex demo with 2k miles on it ... it's now got 80k and really does look and feel like new, more so than mine
I'm old enough to remember my dad and his cortina's falling apart and starting to rust away by the time they were 4 years old ..Halfords filler and rattle cans were in every garage
I think the old saying, they don't build em like they used to is apt
Though I do wonder whether we've gone beyond the tipping point now with the amount of tech in new cars and needed to run them
My current car I bought new 11 years ago and it's now done 122k and still drives like new, no rattles, squeaks etc. the only thing that betrays its age is a couple of small parking dings and a bit of laquer peel on rear bumper
It's got just enough tech, yet not too much to worry about failing
My wife ran company cars for years before opting out
Hers is now 9 years old, bought as an ex demo with 2k miles on it ... it's now got 80k and really does look and feel like new, more so than mine
I'm old enough to remember my dad and his cortina's falling apart and starting to rust away by the time they were 4 years old ..Halfords filler and rattle cans were in every garage
I think the old saying, they don't build em like they used to is apt
Though I do wonder whether we've gone beyond the tipping point now with the amount of tech in new cars and needed to run them
Earthdweller said:
Though I do wonder whether we've gone beyond the tipping point now with the amount of tech in new cars and needed to run them
That's my main worry, the air suspension failure on the Tesla is an absolute faff. The part is standard Mercedes item I believe but no garage locally wants to touch it, the nearest Tesla dealer is 35 minutes away and the car is undrivable so it would be a flat bed by the AA than the faff of collecting. I finally found someone who can fix it on the driveway at a reasonable cost but they are booked out till May so th car will be essentially off the road for 3 weeks before its drivable again.My wife's Lexus is far less complicated but the AA couldn't source a 12V battery because its a hybrid. Luckily the local Lexus garage had one in stock. If either the Tesla or Lexus throws up an issues with the traction battery or electronics neither will be a straight forwards or cheap fix.
Luckily we don't need 2 cars most of the time, but when both were undrivable at 7pm on a Friday it wasn't the the idea situation!! Is there one day next week when we both need access to car, I'm having to cycle to a colleagues house to get a lift.
I've asked the Lexus dealer for a week long demo in a new RZ to see if we can be tempted to trade in one for the cars for something newer. I'm definitely not getting anything with air suspension again, or a brand that has no local main dealer service.
As I get older I think reliability is becoming far more important than any thing else in a car, I notice Kia does a 7 year bumper to bumper warranty, and Lexus a 10 year warranty if use them for servicing, both dealers are within 5 miles of the house. Though the AA couldn't get a new battery for our Lexus, the main dealer was great and fitted the battery whilst we waited. If we were to change one of the cars, I think I'll struggle to look beyond Lexus or Kia.
My last 2 cars were bought when 10 - 15 months old & kept for 7 years. The first had a 1 breakdown - not the car's fault; a French rodent had chewed a wire & a pipe. The second suffered a failed battery when 6 years old
The first cost £16k & I received £6k in trade-in & the second cost £14.5k & I received £10.5k in trade-in.
I've only bought new cars (3) via a company I ran for 6 years.
My current car was bought when 20 months old, so 16 months of manufacturer's warranty remaining. My annual mileage is now much lower so I'm likely to keep this car for longer.
The first cost £16k & I received £6k in trade-in & the second cost £14.5k & I received £10.5k in trade-in.
I've only bought new cars (3) via a company I ran for 6 years.
My current car was bought when 20 months old, so 16 months of manufacturer's warranty remaining. My annual mileage is now much lower so I'm likely to keep this car for longer.
I like to keep the family wagon as long as practicable possible after buying outright after a couple of years once the initial depreciation has been taken by someone else. Used regularly, maintained properly then mileage is broadly irrelevant. Within sensible limits obviously. Just look at the mileage of taxis, many hundreds of thousands of miles in many, many cases. 100K, 200K, 300K miles just doesn’t matter if it’s maintained properly.
We have just had to splash out on a new family wagon, a 2023 Cayenne hybrid, as the current one a 2007 ML420 CDi had started to give up after 15 years of splendid faithful service. What killed it? The electronics, it started to throw fault codes about 3 or 4 years ago and it just keeps getting worse. It’s currently got about 4 active codes, glow plugs, ABS and traction control, engine check light for unfeasible boost pressure, and an occasional drop into limp mode. The real pisser is that the ML is still immaculate, drives really well when it’s not in limp home, is comfortable, same economy as ever, and a lovely old bus. I just couldn’t jump in it and drive to the alps for skiing, or a weekend blast to Scotland without panicking about getting home.
I think it’s electronics that are the death knell of most modern cars. I would run them both up to the point that the electronics start to play up and then bale. I should have baled out of the ML about 2 years ago when it was running well, still worth a few grand, and had no warning lights on. Now it’s just our dog car, sad times.
The numbers are interesting. I bought it for £18,750 as a trade buy from a local dealer with 35K miles and no warranty. It was over £50K new. It had a propshaft center bearing, new EGR valves, and a transmission selector ECU in 110,000 miles over and above normal servicing and tyres. It’s actually only on its 5th set of tyres in its entire life. So depreciation works out at about £100 per month, plus the service costs. Fuel economy is around 25MPG over the whole time. It’s cost buttons compared to lease costs.
The other thing to consider is the spec of most new stuff is pretty desperate. Wobbly steering wheels, random alarms and alerts, over sensitive collision avoidance that smashes the brakes when it feels like it, shed loads of emission compliance gubbins. All of which use sophisticated electronics what could possibly go wrong
We have just had to splash out on a new family wagon, a 2023 Cayenne hybrid, as the current one a 2007 ML420 CDi had started to give up after 15 years of splendid faithful service. What killed it? The electronics, it started to throw fault codes about 3 or 4 years ago and it just keeps getting worse. It’s currently got about 4 active codes, glow plugs, ABS and traction control, engine check light for unfeasible boost pressure, and an occasional drop into limp mode. The real pisser is that the ML is still immaculate, drives really well when it’s not in limp home, is comfortable, same economy as ever, and a lovely old bus. I just couldn’t jump in it and drive to the alps for skiing, or a weekend blast to Scotland without panicking about getting home.
I think it’s electronics that are the death knell of most modern cars. I would run them both up to the point that the electronics start to play up and then bale. I should have baled out of the ML about 2 years ago when it was running well, still worth a few grand, and had no warning lights on. Now it’s just our dog car, sad times.
The numbers are interesting. I bought it for £18,750 as a trade buy from a local dealer with 35K miles and no warranty. It was over £50K new. It had a propshaft center bearing, new EGR valves, and a transmission selector ECU in 110,000 miles over and above normal servicing and tyres. It’s actually only on its 5th set of tyres in its entire life. So depreciation works out at about £100 per month, plus the service costs. Fuel economy is around 25MPG over the whole time. It’s cost buttons compared to lease costs.
The other thing to consider is the spec of most new stuff is pretty desperate. Wobbly steering wheels, random alarms and alerts, over sensitive collision avoidance that smashes the brakes when it feels like it, shed loads of emission compliance gubbins. All of which use sophisticated electronics what could possibly go wrong
I keep cars until they can no longer pass an MOT with repairs that cost 2x the value of the car.
For example, six months ago I just paid £900 for a front suspension refresh on my 2006 Audi A4 Avant (74k miles), needed to pass an MOT. Nothing else was raised during the MOT and the car is overall in good condition with no known faults. We bought it in 2010 I think, with 22k miles.
My BMW 330Ci got up to 210k miles after 20 years, and I ran it until it was uneconomical to repair. Not much went wrong except the water pump at around 100k and the power steering pump and alternator at 180k. Other than that, faultless.
I also own a Porsche Boxster S. That's now 12 years old, but with 50k miles. But I only do 5-7k miles per year in it. And I have a 35-year old BMW 730i, with approx 90k miles on the clock.
I have no intention of getting rid of any unless they cannot be driven or repaired and driven. All except the Porsche could be considered a family car. But I don't have a family and because I have a few cars, I'm unlikely to be stranded if one breaks down.
For example, six months ago I just paid £900 for a front suspension refresh on my 2006 Audi A4 Avant (74k miles), needed to pass an MOT. Nothing else was raised during the MOT and the car is overall in good condition with no known faults. We bought it in 2010 I think, with 22k miles.
My BMW 330Ci got up to 210k miles after 20 years, and I ran it until it was uneconomical to repair. Not much went wrong except the water pump at around 100k and the power steering pump and alternator at 180k. Other than that, faultless.
I also own a Porsche Boxster S. That's now 12 years old, but with 50k miles. But I only do 5-7k miles per year in it. And I have a 35-year old BMW 730i, with approx 90k miles on the clock.
I have no intention of getting rid of any unless they cannot be driven or repaired and driven. All except the Porsche could be considered a family car. But I don't have a family and because I have a few cars, I'm unlikely to be stranded if one breaks down.
gangzoom said:
That's my main worry, the air suspension failure on the Tesla is an absolute faff. The part is standard Mercedes item I believe but no garage locally wants to touch it, the nearest Tesla dealer is 35 minutes away and the car is undrivable so it would be a flat bed by the AA than the faff of collecting. I finally found someone who can fix it on the driveway at a reasonable cost but they are booked out till May so th car will be essentially off the road for 3 weeks before its drivable again.
My wife's Lexus is far less complicated but the AA couldn't source a 12V battery because its a hybrid. Luckily the local Lexus garage had one in stock. If either the Tesla or Lexus throws up an issues with the traction battery or electronics neither will be a straight forwards or cheap fix.
Luckily we don't need 2 cars most of the time, but when both were undrivable at 7pm on a Friday it wasn't the the idea situation!! Is there one day next week when we both need access to car, I'm having to cycle to a colleagues house to get a lift.
I've asked the Lexus dealer for a week long demo in a new RZ to see if we can be tempted to trade in one for the cars for something newer. I'm definitely not getting anything with air suspension again, or a brand that has no local main dealer service.
As I get older I think reliability is becoming far more important than any thing else in a car, I notice Kia does a 7 year bumper to bumper warranty, and Lexus a 10 year warranty if use them for servicing, both dealers are within 5 miles of the house. Though the AA couldn't get a new battery for our Lexus, the main dealer was great and fitted the battery whilst we waited. If we were to change one of the cars, I think I'll struggle to look beyond Lexus or Kia.
[Img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOHZrbp5lpHy1iMq-bzup6fNEar7rID9QT-IkkUNv8G39gZ3314y_aIa-VDjowtCs7Ot8oGgTlOi4WzqkC1JZhpFcfrKOoj4LALjomgY3Fm3kg_D-_ExmCxIKbXfd7pnBYsI-ifgCKPy7QeqnjFRTh7iQ=w1530-h2034-s-no-gm?authuser=0[/thumb]
The Kia 7 year warranty isn't bumper to bumper. It's a graduated warranty, some things have a shorter warranty period. See here for details. My wife's Lexus is far less complicated but the AA couldn't source a 12V battery because its a hybrid. Luckily the local Lexus garage had one in stock. If either the Tesla or Lexus throws up an issues with the traction battery or electronics neither will be a straight forwards or cheap fix.
Luckily we don't need 2 cars most of the time, but when both were undrivable at 7pm on a Friday it wasn't the the idea situation!! Is there one day next week when we both need access to car, I'm having to cycle to a colleagues house to get a lift.
I've asked the Lexus dealer for a week long demo in a new RZ to see if we can be tempted to trade in one for the cars for something newer. I'm definitely not getting anything with air suspension again, or a brand that has no local main dealer service.
As I get older I think reliability is becoming far more important than any thing else in a car, I notice Kia does a 7 year bumper to bumper warranty, and Lexus a 10 year warranty if use them for servicing, both dealers are within 5 miles of the house. Though the AA couldn't get a new battery for our Lexus, the main dealer was great and fitted the battery whilst we waited. If we were to change one of the cars, I think I'll struggle to look beyond Lexus or Kia.
[Img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOHZrbp5lpHy1iMq-bzup6fNEar7rID9QT-IkkUNv8G39gZ3314y_aIa-VDjowtCs7Ot8oGgTlOi4WzqkC1JZhpFcfrKOoj4LALjomgY3Fm3kg_D-_ExmCxIKbXfd7pnBYsI-ifgCKPy7QeqnjFRTh7iQ=w1530-h2034-s-no-gm?authuser=0[/thumb]
https://www.kia.com/uk/owners/insurance-and-warran...
Regarding air suspension, your X will be using an older system. Air suspension in more modern cars (from any brand) appear to be more durable and reliable than air suspension in older cars, from what I've read, and my own experience with air suspension on cars made in the last 5 years.
Regarding your quest for reliability, for me personally, it's not just about reliability only, but what happens if something does go wrong, in terms of your car being towed to a dealer, an equivalent rental car delivered to you within hours, and being able to stay mobile until your own car is repaired, whether you breakdown close to home, or somewhere in mainland Europe. Not every manufacturer offers such a service, but it can provide a lot of peace of mind.
Back to your original question, I've been keeping my cars between 2-3 years. Either leasing a new one or buying at 3 years old and selling at 5 years old.
I've tended to keep cars until they annoy or embarrass me.
I've got rid of a couple of cars while they were still viable runners with 10 months of MOT, but over 180k miles and I wanted something nicer.
One of those, the main issue was the seats were getting tired and we no longer enjoyed being in it all day.
I've scrapped a few cars and sold some for small change.
Trouble is, as with several other posters in this thread, when you kept your previous car for 10 years or so, you are talking about a different epoch of cars.
I suspect both our current cars will be got rid of due to minor electrical nonsense that is irritating and expensive to trace and rectify. One has occasional ABS warnings which are likely some slightly intermittent wiring. Plus it's generally getting a bit old. The other has had a few minor bills and I'm not confident the local mechanics really understand some issues.
It comes down to something I learned with my first car, when you can't commit to driving it wherever, whenever, it's no longer good value however cheap it is. I've had s
t cars that I trusted to keep going, I've had more aspirational cars that have broken that trust.
It's not like the old days, you knew when to get rid because it failed the MOT or a major part like engine or gearbox was beyond fixing.
I've got rid of a couple of cars while they were still viable runners with 10 months of MOT, but over 180k miles and I wanted something nicer.
One of those, the main issue was the seats were getting tired and we no longer enjoyed being in it all day.
I've scrapped a few cars and sold some for small change.
Trouble is, as with several other posters in this thread, when you kept your previous car for 10 years or so, you are talking about a different epoch of cars.
I suspect both our current cars will be got rid of due to minor electrical nonsense that is irritating and expensive to trace and rectify. One has occasional ABS warnings which are likely some slightly intermittent wiring. Plus it's generally getting a bit old. The other has had a few minor bills and I'm not confident the local mechanics really understand some issues.
It comes down to something I learned with my first car, when you can't commit to driving it wherever, whenever, it's no longer good value however cheap it is. I've had s
t cars that I trusted to keep going, I've had more aspirational cars that have broken that trust.It's not like the old days, you knew when to get rid because it failed the MOT or a major part like engine or gearbox was beyond fixing.
Had my V40 from new until it was 7 1/2 years old with 85000 on the clock. Sold it as I was concerned about an issue with the engine block that my particular model year had apparently had which could have been expensive. Will never know whether it would have materialized.
Bought my wife’s Polo 6years ago and intention is to keep it until for at least another 10 years!
Bought my wife’s Polo 6years ago and intention is to keep it until for at least another 10 years!
It depends largely on what sort of car and how they're looked after in my experience.
Our previous family Land Cruiser happily provided 30 years of trouble free service and was used for everything from day to day running around to 1000+ mile trips towing 3.5T. Aberdeenshire Road salt got to it in the end but mechanically it was still going strong - it's been patched up by it's new owner and last I heard was somewhere in Central Asia on a RTW tour.
I fully expect the Rav4 (Suzuki Across) to do an easy 15+ years doing 15k a year without effort. I bought it outright for £20k. Leasing something similarly specced every 3 years for the same time period would cost well over £100k before you even think about inflation. The 12v battery will be replaced as preventative maintenance every 5 years - probably a good idea with most cars tbh.
Our Tesla Model Y we have through the business on the other hand has been a bit of a disaster - leaving us stranded on the roadside twice, many thousands in repair costs and lengthy waits at Tesla for parts. Wouldn't have another, especially out of warranty.
Our previous family Land Cruiser happily provided 30 years of trouble free service and was used for everything from day to day running around to 1000+ mile trips towing 3.5T. Aberdeenshire Road salt got to it in the end but mechanically it was still going strong - it's been patched up by it's new owner and last I heard was somewhere in Central Asia on a RTW tour.
I fully expect the Rav4 (Suzuki Across) to do an easy 15+ years doing 15k a year without effort. I bought it outright for £20k. Leasing something similarly specced every 3 years for the same time period would cost well over £100k before you even think about inflation. The 12v battery will be replaced as preventative maintenance every 5 years - probably a good idea with most cars tbh.
Our Tesla Model Y we have through the business on the other hand has been a bit of a disaster - leaving us stranded on the roadside twice, many thousands in repair costs and lengthy waits at Tesla for parts. Wouldn't have another, especially out of warranty.
Edited by Snow and Rocks on Sunday 26th April 23:04
I get bored easily, so I add, remove and swap quite often. That said, I'm happy where I am now so no real plans.
My wife's car/family car has only really been changed when we had a reason to. We swapped her old Range Rover for my Dad's X5 when he upgraded because the RR was totally st and was breaking all the time. The X5 we kept for 6 years until it started having suspension issues, was getting to 100k miles and I didn't want to risk any breakdowns with young kids in the car.
Her current car will be fine for as many years as it remains trouble free. She's not really 'in to cars'.
My wife's car/family car has only really been changed when we had a reason to. We swapped her old Range Rover for my Dad's X5 when he upgraded because the RR was totally s
t and was breaking all the time. The X5 we kept for 6 years until it started having suspension issues, was getting to 100k miles and I didn't want to risk any breakdowns with young kids in the car.Her current car will be fine for as many years as it remains trouble free. She's not really 'in to cars'.
I d get rid, if you want trouble free motoring.
You are coming up against the design limits for various components now and lots of stuff will start to want swapping out. I always use the limits of manufacturers extended warranty schemes as a guide, because they d know their cars best.
If you are looking for reliable transport, it would be a nightmare having both cars in a period of their lives where the manufacturer wouldn t touch them with an extended warranty. They are basically saying, even if you pay for the warranty, we don t think offering such a product will be economic for the amount / price of repairs we d expect to shoulder.
There ll always be someone on PH who will claim their 20 year old car has done 200k miles needing nothing more than some oil changes and a couple of sets of tyres, but I d trust the manufacturers to know their product, more than some vocal outliers on a motoring forum.
You are coming up against the design limits for various components now and lots of stuff will start to want swapping out. I always use the limits of manufacturers extended warranty schemes as a guide, because they d know their cars best.
If you are looking for reliable transport, it would be a nightmare having both cars in a period of their lives where the manufacturer wouldn t touch them with an extended warranty. They are basically saying, even if you pay for the warranty, we don t think offering such a product will be economic for the amount / price of repairs we d expect to shoulder.
There ll always be someone on PH who will claim their 20 year old car has done 200k miles needing nothing more than some oil changes and a couple of sets of tyres, but I d trust the manufacturers to know their product, more than some vocal outliers on a motoring forum.
Edited by wyson on Sunday 26th April 23:28
I buy mine at 5-6 years old, run them for 3-5 years, rinse and repeat. It allows me to run something nice, at a low level of depreciation, and move on when I am bored. Depreciation averages about £1k/year, helped by the lower purchase price. I find that by the time a car hits 9-10 years old, bills rise and then only continue going up.
For the wife's car, it is usually 3-4 years old at time of purchase and she keeps it for a good 5-6 years. Reliability is more important for her car, so something newer, lower mileage (and costly!) is the way to go. There is a ceiling on depreciation and running costs that I try to adhere to for both cars.
For the wife's car, it is usually 3-4 years old at time of purchase and she keeps it for a good 5-6 years. Reliability is more important for her car, so something newer, lower mileage (and costly!) is the way to go. There is a ceiling on depreciation and running costs that I try to adhere to for both cars.
wyson said:
I d get rid, if you want trouble free motoring.
You are coming up against the design limits for various components now and lots of stuff will start to want swapping out. I always use the limits of manufacturers extended warranty schemes as a guide, because they d know their cars best.
If you are looking for reliable transport, it would be a nightmare having both cars in a period of their lives where the manufacturer wouldn t touch them with an extended warranty. They are basically saying, even if you pay for the warranty, we don t think offering such a product will be economic for the amount / price of repairs we d expect to shoulder.
There ll always be someone on PH who will claim their 20 year old car has done 200k miles needing nothing more than some oil changes and a couple of sets of tyres, but I d trust the manufacturers to know their product, more than some vocal outliers on a motoring forum.
Very wise advice. Very wise. You are coming up against the design limits for various components now and lots of stuff will start to want swapping out. I always use the limits of manufacturers extended warranty schemes as a guide, because they d know their cars best.
If you are looking for reliable transport, it would be a nightmare having both cars in a period of their lives where the manufacturer wouldn t touch them with an extended warranty. They are basically saying, even if you pay for the warranty, we don t think offering such a product will be economic for the amount / price of repairs we d expect to shoulder.
There ll always be someone on PH who will claim their 20 year old car has done 200k miles needing nothing more than some oil changes and a couple of sets of tyres, but I d trust the manufacturers to know their product, more than some vocal outliers on a motoring forum.
Edited by wyson on Sunday 26th April 23:28
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