How to go about negotiating a used car purchase from dealer
Discussion
I've done my research and been given some good ideas from here on car models. I'm looking at buying from main dealers on the approved used schemes as i like the idea of the 12-24 month warranty and the supposed peace of mind from their 111-149 point inspections......
I havent needed to go out and buy a car for a while, so i wanted to get any advice/tips on this. From what i can see, most dealers want you to reserve a car, at which point i expect my ability to negotiate goes down somewhat. Or backing up, can you really negotiate much these days - my impression was that the sticker price was the price? I've seen several cars all over the country, im sure large groups move stock so its possible to get them moved, but again i think negotiating power evaporates at that point.
Any tips - best way to approach things?
Reserve car or just turn up?
Anyone had success negotiating?
Just want to align my expectations before i start to engage.
I havent needed to go out and buy a car for a while, so i wanted to get any advice/tips on this. From what i can see, most dealers want you to reserve a car, at which point i expect my ability to negotiate goes down somewhat. Or backing up, can you really negotiate much these days - my impression was that the sticker price was the price? I've seen several cars all over the country, im sure large groups move stock so its possible to get them moved, but again i think negotiating power evaporates at that point.
Any tips - best way to approach things?
Reserve car or just turn up?
Anyone had success negotiating?
Just want to align my expectations before i start to engage.
If you are expecting a discount then i would think again, most dealers regularly price check their stock so they know how well they are priced. If your in their showroom looking at heir car they will know its the best/cheapest etc withoin so many miles or else you would be elsewhere looking at their car.
They also generally dont have massive margins so again no real room for big discounts.
And big groups will often have prices set centrally so again no real room for big discounts.....
They also generally dont have massive margins so again no real room for big discounts.
And big groups will often have prices set centrally so again no real room for big discounts.....
blue_haddock said:
If you are expecting a discount then i would think again, most dealers regularly price check their stock so they know how well they are priced. If your in their showroom looking at heir car they will know its the best/cheapest etc withoin so many miles or else you would be elsewhere looking at their car.
They also generally dont have massive margins so again no real room for big discounts.
And big groups will often have prices set centrally so again no real room for big discounts.....
Thanks, thats kind of what i had gleaned from my research, but wanted to check i wasnt wide of the mark. If i know a discount is unlikely, then it kind of makes it easier and i'll just focus on the one which i see as best value for me. They also generally dont have massive margins so again no real room for big discounts.
And big groups will often have prices set centrally so again no real room for big discounts.....
A bit of humour/rapport building goes a long way. I've had success with a few things.
If a price is £20,495, for instance, I've said that I prefer simple numbers so let's do £20,000.
Or if they're at £25,000 and I'm at £24,000 let's meet in the middle at £24,250.
Give the sales person the commitment that if they can get to a price you'll give them a deposit.
If a price is £20,495, for instance, I've said that I prefer simple numbers so let's do £20,000.
Or if they're at £25,000 and I'm at £24,000 let's meet in the middle at £24,250.
Give the sales person the commitment that if they can get to a price you'll give them a deposit.
I’ve a very good friend and she’s the DP of a large MB dealership…
Her advice has always been;
How long has the vehicle been stock? If it’s just been listed, they won’t be interested but if it’s about to overage on their stocking-plan, where the funder then starts to become more punitive, they’ll be willing to have a discussion to get it gone.
Be respectful - don’t go in demanding £5k off as it won’t happen and you’ll be marked as a timewaster and be dispatched with forthwith. A cheeky opener is one thing - but they move in marginal hundreds and not thousands.
Be honest - if you can do £x.xx today then I’ll give you a dipper here and now.
Finally, her view is to always buy a car, believe it or not, on a Sunday and towards month-end as there is less supervision and if they’ve blanked / not got many on the board then whomever is in charge might be a touch more amenable to ‘sliding it through’ to bolster the numbers.
Hope this helps.
Her advice has always been;
How long has the vehicle been stock? If it’s just been listed, they won’t be interested but if it’s about to overage on their stocking-plan, where the funder then starts to become more punitive, they’ll be willing to have a discussion to get it gone.
Be respectful - don’t go in demanding £5k off as it won’t happen and you’ll be marked as a timewaster and be dispatched with forthwith. A cheeky opener is one thing - but they move in marginal hundreds and not thousands.
Be honest - if you can do £x.xx today then I’ll give you a dipper here and now.
Finally, her view is to always buy a car, believe it or not, on a Sunday and towards month-end as there is less supervision and if they’ve blanked / not got many on the board then whomever is in charge might be a touch more amenable to ‘sliding it through’ to bolster the numbers.
Hope this helps.
All the above is good advice.
In my experience there’s something that lets every car down. Do the usual checks and try and hold up to three things in your head. It might be one tyre lower than the others, a missing key, or a mismatch between the advert and the spec. Look for anything and everything. Yes it’s a used car, not new car but use anything within reason to demonstrate slight disappointment or suggest there are better out there.
Then strongly suggest you’d like to buy the car but in view of the fact of A, B and C what can they do to make the deal happen?
Sometimes the answer’s nothing, sometimes they’ll put them right, sometimes you get a little bit off.
At the end of the day if it’s a good car and the right car, at the right price to begin with, don’t let it go for the sake of a discount on principle.
In my experience there’s something that lets every car down. Do the usual checks and try and hold up to three things in your head. It might be one tyre lower than the others, a missing key, or a mismatch between the advert and the spec. Look for anything and everything. Yes it’s a used car, not new car but use anything within reason to demonstrate slight disappointment or suggest there are better out there.
Then strongly suggest you’d like to buy the car but in view of the fact of A, B and C what can they do to make the deal happen?
Sometimes the answer’s nothing, sometimes they’ll put them right, sometimes you get a little bit off.
At the end of the day if it’s a good car and the right car, at the right price to begin with, don’t let it go for the sake of a discount on principle.
It will depend on the value of the car, but at the £5-10k end my experience is that cars are far more competitively priced nowadays and there is little room to discount. The usual spiel involves showing them a cheaper, identical car on Autotrader and they will see what they can do. You might get them to throw in the price of taxing it, which is pretty worthless if you’re looking at low emission cars 😂.
That leaves finding issues with the car to get some money off - we got offered a “gold-plated” warranty (on a 5k car) as the most beneficial to both of us, but pushed for cash.
Chris
That leaves finding issues with the car to get some money off - we got offered a “gold-plated” warranty (on a 5k car) as the most beneficial to both of us, but pushed for cash.
Chris
ADJimbo said:
I’ve a very good friend and she’s the DP of a large MB dealership…
Her advice has always been;
How long has the vehicle been stock? If it’s just been listed, they won’t be interested but if it’s about to overage on their stocking-plan, where the funder then starts to become more punitive, they’ll be willing to have a discussion to get it gone.
Be respectful - don’t go in demanding £5k off as it won’t happen and you’ll be marked as a timewaster and be dispatched with forthwith. A cheeky opener is one thing - but they move in marginal hundreds and not thousands.
Be honest - if you can do £x.xx today then I’ll give you a dipper here and now.
Finally, her view is to always buy a car, believe it or not, on a Sunday and towards month-end as there is less supervision and if they’ve blanked / not got many on the board then whomever is in charge might be a touch more amenable to ‘sliding it through’ to bolster the numbers.
Hope this helps.
Thankyou, that's really helpfulHer advice has always been;
How long has the vehicle been stock? If it’s just been listed, they won’t be interested but if it’s about to overage on their stocking-plan, where the funder then starts to become more punitive, they’ll be willing to have a discussion to get it gone.
Be respectful - don’t go in demanding £5k off as it won’t happen and you’ll be marked as a timewaster and be dispatched with forthwith. A cheeky opener is one thing - but they move in marginal hundreds and not thousands.
Be honest - if you can do £x.xx today then I’ll give you a dipper here and now.
Finally, her view is to always buy a car, believe it or not, on a Sunday and towards month-end as there is less supervision and if they’ve blanked / not got many on the board then whomever is in charge might be a touch more amenable to ‘sliding it through’ to bolster the numbers.
Hope this helps.
nickp1 said:
Sheepshanks said:
Will you be paying cash or using finance?
I can do either, would be guided by the better outcome on the day I thinkWhat are you looking at buying? I was thinking of changing my car (e class cab) for an F82 m4 or M2 comp I like you wanted an AUC car as many of the cars outside the network look barryed up and I don't want one that's been messed about with, I looked at a few thought the asking prices were quite strong did a WBAC quote and saw that they had 10-11k spread between asking and WBAC bid on a 36k car...no way would I take that bath on top of the loss when I sell the current car.
BMW dealers as an example do not deal on their used cars in my experience and the APR (if using it) is outrageous I wouldn't have been using finance but no way would I pay those sticker prices.
Check everything even on AUC, just because it's from a main dealer (mismatched tyres/narginal brake discs/mis matched paint etc) it doesn't make the car immune from potential issues.
Do YOUR own VCheck/hpi this is an essential one that so many people don't do, for the sake of £10 you can save yourself a lot of aggro.
Be prepared to take their (you can pay this off in full after you've had the car a few weeks) finance) they'll be more inclined to give you a bit off or add extras like a free service/extend the warranty for an extra year etc.
Go in willing to work with them & you should come out with a deal that works for both of you.
Another note is that if the car does need some rectifications done get the dealer to send you an email confirming exactly whar rhey're agreeing to do,
On the day of collection (make sure any agreed work has been carried out to a standard you're happy with) check everything again, don't get caught up in the whole new car hype & be methodical.
I hope this helps.
Do YOUR own VCheck/hpi this is an essential one that so many people don't do, for the sake of £10 you can save yourself a lot of aggro.
Be prepared to take their (you can pay this off in full after you've had the car a few weeks) finance) they'll be more inclined to give you a bit off or add extras like a free service/extend the warranty for an extra year etc.
Go in willing to work with them & you should come out with a deal that works for both of you.
Another note is that if the car does need some rectifications done get the dealer to send you an email confirming exactly whar rhey're agreeing to do,
On the day of collection (make sure any agreed work has been carried out to a standard you're happy with) check everything again, don't get caught up in the whole new car hype & be methodical.
I hope this helps.
ZX10R NIN said:
Check everything even on AUC, just because it's from a main dealer (mismatched tyres/narginal brake discs/mis matched paint etc) it doesn't make the car immune from potential issues.
Do YOUR own VCheck/hpi this is an essential one that so many people don't do, for the sake of £10 you can save yourself a lot of aggro.
Be prepared to take their (you can pay this off in full after you've had the car a few weeks) finance) they'll be more inclined to give you a bit off or add extras like a free service/extend the warranty for an extra year etc.
Go in willing to work with them & you should come out with a deal that works for both of you.
Another note is that if the car does need some rectifications done get the dealer to send you an email confirming exactly whar rhey're agreeing to do,
On the day of collection (make sure any agreed work has been carried out to a standard you're happy with) check everything again, don't get caught up in the whole new car hype & be methodical.
I hope this helps.
Some very good points there. Do YOUR own VCheck/hpi this is an essential one that so many people don't do, for the sake of £10 you can save yourself a lot of aggro.
Be prepared to take their (you can pay this off in full after you've had the car a few weeks) finance) they'll be more inclined to give you a bit off or add extras like a free service/extend the warranty for an extra year etc.
Go in willing to work with them & you should come out with a deal that works for both of you.
Another note is that if the car does need some rectifications done get the dealer to send you an email confirming exactly whar rhey're agreeing to do,
On the day of collection (make sure any agreed work has been carried out to a standard you're happy with) check everything again, don't get caught up in the whole new car hype & be methodical.
I hope this helps.
It used to be the case that buying from a main dealer ment the car was as close to new as a used car could get. The cars would generally be free of issues and very well prepped prior to sale.
That seems to have changed over recent years with some dealers doing minimal prep and relying of the manufacturer auc warranty to cover issues if the client raises an issue.
What you are buying with a main dealer is the backup if things do go wrong.
In my dealings with franchised dealers, they have always been very fair and professional when a problem arises, even if I’ve been, with hindsight, unreasonable.
Wills2 said:
What are you looking at buying? I was thinking of changing my car (e class cab) for an F82 m4 or M2 comp I like you wanted an AUC car as many of the cars outside the network look barryed up and I don't want one that's been messed about with, I looked at a few thought the asking prices were quite strong did a WBAC quote and saw that they had 10-11k spread between asking and WBAC bid on a 36k car...no way would I take that bath on top of the loss when I sell the current car.
BMW dealers as an example do not deal on their used cars in my experience and the APR (if using it) is outrageous I wouldn't have been using finance but no way would I pay those sticker prices.
Thats good to know, it was something of the ilk of X5 / Q7 / Etc that i was looking at. BMW dealers as an example do not deal on their used cars in my experience and the APR (if using it) is outrageous I wouldn't have been using finance but no way would I pay those sticker prices.
ZX10R NIN said:
Check everything even on AUC, just because it's from a main dealer (mismatched tyres/narginal brake discs/mis matched paint etc) it doesn't make the car immune from potential issues.
Do YOUR own VCheck/hpi this is an essential one that so many people don't do, for the sake of £10 you can save yourself a lot of aggro.
Be prepared to take their (you can pay this off in full after you've had the car a few weeks) finance) they'll be more inclined to give you a bit off or add extras like a free service/extend the warranty for an extra year etc.
Go in willing to work with them & you should come out with a deal that works for both of you.
Another note is that if the car does need some rectifications done get the dealer to send you an email confirming exactly whar rhey're agreeing to do,
On the day of collection (make sure any agreed work has been carried out to a standard you're happy with) check everything again, don't get caught up in the whole new car hype & be methodical.
I hope this helps.
Thanks, that is helpful. Do YOUR own VCheck/hpi this is an essential one that so many people don't do, for the sake of £10 you can save yourself a lot of aggro.
Be prepared to take their (you can pay this off in full after you've had the car a few weeks) finance) they'll be more inclined to give you a bit off or add extras like a free service/extend the warranty for an extra year etc.
Go in willing to work with them & you should come out with a deal that works for both of you.
Another note is that if the car does need some rectifications done get the dealer to send you an email confirming exactly whar rhey're agreeing to do,
On the day of collection (make sure any agreed work has been carried out to a standard you're happy with) check everything again, don't get caught up in the whole new car hype & be methodical.
I hope this helps.
nickp1 said:
Wills2 said:
What are you looking at buying? I was thinking of changing my car (e class cab) for an F82 m4 or M2 comp I like you wanted an AUC car as many of the cars outside the network look barryed up and I don't want one that's been messed about with, I looked at a few thought the asking prices were quite strong did a WBAC quote and saw that they had 10-11k spread between asking and WBAC bid on a 36k car...no way would I take that bath on top of the loss when I sell the current car.
BMW dealers as an example do not deal on their used cars in my experience and the APR (if using it) is outrageous I wouldn't have been using finance but no way would I pay those sticker prices.
Thats good to know, it was something of the ilk of X5 / Q7 / Etc that i was looking at. BMW dealers as an example do not deal on their used cars in my experience and the APR (if using it) is outrageous I wouldn't have been using finance but no way would I pay those sticker prices.
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