Discussion
Hi Paul
Done my gearbox a year back now,and did it myself.
When i cut cross member i cut it about 3inch from each end,then had some inserts made up to go inside tubing.
These were drilled to take bolts, then drill holes in tubing to match holes in inserts.
When bolted up this method semed to me very strong and very easy to take off again if needed
Will post some pics if needed
steve
Done my gearbox a year back now,and did it myself.
When i cut cross member i cut it about 3inch from each end,then had some inserts made up to go inside tubing.
These were drilled to take bolts, then drill holes in tubing to match holes in inserts.
When bolted up this method semed to me very strong and very easy to take off again if needed
Will post some pics if needed
steve
steveobes said:
Hi Paul
Done my gearbox a year back now,and did it myself.
When i cut cross member i cut it about 3inch from each end,then had some inserts made up to go inside tubing.
These were drilled to take bolts, then drill holes in tubing to match holes in inserts.
When bolted up this method semed to me very strong and very easy to take off again if needed
Will post some pics if needed
steve
Worth doing, maybe put them on the fixes part of nobleparts website.Done my gearbox a year back now,and did it myself.
When i cut cross member i cut it about 3inch from each end,then had some inserts made up to go inside tubing.
These were drilled to take bolts, then drill holes in tubing to match holes in inserts.
When bolted up this method semed to me very strong and very easy to take off again if needed
Will post some pics if needed
steve
Bondy
steveobes said:
Hi Paul
Done my gearbox a year back now,and did it myself.
When i cut cross member i cut it about 3inch from each end,then had some inserts made up to go inside tubing.
These were drilled to take bolts, then drill holes in tubing to match holes in inserts.
When bolted up this method semed to me very strong and very easy to take off again if needed
Will post some pics if needed
steve
yes please... another mod I have been consideringDone my gearbox a year back now,and did it myself.
When i cut cross member i cut it about 3inch from each end,then had some inserts made up to go inside tubing.
These were drilled to take bolts, then drill holes in tubing to match holes in inserts.
When bolted up this method semed to me very strong and very easy to take off again if needed
Will post some pics if needed
steve
5paulmv said:
2.5 blue noble will you post pics of your chassi mod to get at gear box just intrested cheers
Hi paul. i would not advise to copy the way that ive had my chassy mod done, to be hounest there are beter ways of doing it. I just let the fabricator get on with it. He did a nice neat job and all but not the method that would work best. look for a thread on here posted by urbanizer, i thought that his plan looked good.Steve
Hi all,
Probably about the 10th time i have preached about this
Removable struts are a good idea but the splice connections have to be done properly to simulate a continuous member, a pinned joint is exactly like a rotating joint on your body.
RThe movement on the strut joint may be barely noticeable but the principle remains the same andf if movement is allowed then the this means the surrounding joints are taking the strain, i think people are getting away with this because the chassis is strong, but long term these type of pinned connections will take there toll and failure may be catastrophic.
I think the above idea is good, cut off the chassis bar a few inches from either end but just make sure to refix using double end plate connections(min 4mm thick plate - 2 no m6 bolts on centreline, bolts only need to be in one axis of the strut)
Now the connections is classed as fixed, i.e. it resists rotation.
Please also note this has nothing to do with torsional forces, the rotation is with regards to the moment turning force of the connection only.
You can design a full bolt together chassis and maintain full rigidity if the connections are done properly.
Probably about the 10th time i have preached about this
Removable struts are a good idea but the splice connections have to be done properly to simulate a continuous member, a pinned joint is exactly like a rotating joint on your body.
RThe movement on the strut joint may be barely noticeable but the principle remains the same andf if movement is allowed then the this means the surrounding joints are taking the strain, i think people are getting away with this because the chassis is strong, but long term these type of pinned connections will take there toll and failure may be catastrophic.
I think the above idea is good, cut off the chassis bar a few inches from either end but just make sure to refix using double end plate connections(min 4mm thick plate - 2 no m6 bolts on centreline, bolts only need to be in one axis of the strut)
Now the connections is classed as fixed, i.e. it resists rotation.
Please also note this has nothing to do with torsional forces, the rotation is with regards to the moment turning force of the connection only.
You can design a full bolt together chassis and maintain full rigidity if the connections are done properly.
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