Discussion
I believe there is a valve that is accessible from under the car, that is not closing properly. An age old problem, that I think most have suffered. I'm awaiting a price from Mole Valley to replace mine.
I've let one of my workers use my car all this weekend for his brothers wedding. They must've roasted in there in morning suits!
I've let one of my workers use my car all this weekend for his brothers wedding. They must've roasted in there in morning suits!
Could be two problems. Firstly you need to make sure the heater water valve is `off` with the aircon on or the aircon `cold air` will be swamped by the heater `hot air`. Secondly there is - I believe - a thermal cutout on the compressor which turns it off if the ambient temperature around it gets too high. This would normally only happen on track or after a fast drive on a very hot day. I suspect it`s the former problem. The Noble heater is not an `air blend` type but uses a `tap` to control the supply of hot water into the heater matrix and this needs to be correctly set relative to the facia knob.
Agree with the above (when I bought mine the heater valve wouldn't close and the aircon was empty so double whammy). Try driving from cold without aircon and if the heat mounts up it will be the heater valve. If you are lucky it might free up by moving the hot/cold heater control but more likely the valve is stuck or the cables are stuck. It's accessed from below via the front tunnel access plate but very fiddly to get to but I did manage to close it this way (which is all you need at this time of year) but returned it to the dealer to get the cables sorted.
b19nor said:
Hi when i put my air con on the light is on but it dosent blow cold and i don't her the compressor or like a click noise for it to go on.
Is that no gas or is it something else?
Generally gas, but could be something more serious.Is that no gas or is it something else?
Nobles do, but shouldn't, leak gas, and hence if you've ended up with no gas then you should get it to a company that can either UV trace or gas leak test it.
Checking the gas level is easy - you can pull the small paper sticker off the top of the dryer unit that is down by the nearside front wheel. This reveals the inspection glass that is in-line with the air-con return piping and ontop of the dryer (the canister). When the compressor is running you should not see any significant bubbles through this window (it looks a bit like a spirit level).
J
JulesBliss said:
Had mine regassed. They took nothing out!!!!. but put 850 back in, and so far its good. we shall see if its alright!
You have a leak. Expect it to get worse over next 3-6 months I'm afraid.The mere fact that they took nothingout should have made them find the leak. Kwickfit et. all. Don't do this for a regard, so alas you have just wasted your money somewhat I fear.
J
wessexrfc said:
BobE said:
Normally the fluid has a fluorescent dye which should show where any leaks are - as Joust says if they haven`t fixed the leak you`ll be re-filling again soon having damaged the ozone layer....
R134a has 0 ODP so no problem to the ozone, just your wallet!!Zoobeef said:
wessexrfc said:
R134a has 0 ODP so no problem to the ozone, just your wallet!!
Has a high Global Warming Potential though404A (HFC blend) as fitted in lots of new equipment 3750 GWP!!
The last post was with toungue-in-cheek, all equipment must be correctly checked after any recharging/topping up has been completed.
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